Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by tikusniaga

0 down payment & high rebates

tikusniaga — Wed, 31 Jan 2018 08:36:46 +0800

Lelong era coming soon !

Mistakes made and consequences.

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 07:30:00 +0800

Mistakes made and consequences.

tikusniaga — Sat, 27 Jan 2018 22:56:19 +0800

Please share so others could learn from mistakes.

Do not talk anything other than property investment PLEASE.

This is a bona fine thread.

CHINA STATIONERY LIMITED

tikusniaga — Fri, 19 Apr 2013 05:41:26 +0800

Be careful for those who use margin, because "the BIG BUAYA" is going to get YOU. Also , for those who use cut-lost strategy , do not touch this stock. Why? "The BIG BUAYA" will beat you anytime. However, if you have cash and timing, it is not difficult to catch "the BIG BUAYA". At 37 sen per CSL share, the timing is about right to catch "the BIG BUAYA".

PCHEM-CC @ RM0.245 as at 25/05/2011

tikusniaga — Thu, 26 May 2011 07:28:56 +0800

Worth buying @ RM0.245. Negative PREMIUM.

BURSA-CP & AXIATA-CG

tikusniaga — Tue, 10 May 2011 05:52:13 +0800

I strongly believe these 2 warrants worth considering ... BURSA-CP @ .13 & AXIATA-CG @ .215

GSB - a recovering stock

tikusniaga — Sat, 26 Mar 2011 18:13:59 +0800

I think it has full of potential and it is undervalue.

Anyone having shares in this counter?

Fancy Rat

tikusniaga — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 07:32:11 +0800

Let us talk about fancy rats.

THE HISTORY OF FANCY RAT

The origin of the modern fancy rat begins with the rat-catchers of the 18th and 19th centuries who trapped rats throughout Europe.[1] These rat-catchers would then either kill the rats, or—more likely—sell the rats to be the victims in bloodsport.[7] Rat-baiting was a popular sport until the beginning of the 20th century, it involved filling a pit with several rats and then placing bets on how long it would take a terrier to kill them all. It is believed that both rat-catchers and sportsmen began to keep certain, odd-coloured rats during the height of the sport—eventually breeding them, and then selling them as pets.[1][8] The two men thought to have formed the basis of rat fancy are Jack Black, rat-catcher to Queen Victoria, and Jimmy Shaw, manager of one of the largest sporting public houses in London. These two men are responsible for beginning many of the colour varieties present today.[1][9]

Rat fancy as a formal, organized hobby began when a woman named Mary Douglas asked for permission to bring her pet rats to an exhibition of the National Mouse Club at the Aylesbury Town Show in England on October 24, 1901. Her black and white hooded rat won "Best in Show," and ignited interest in the area. After Douglas's death in 1921, rat fancy soon began to fall back out of fashion. The original hobby formally lasted from 1912 to 1929 or 1931, as part of the National Mouse and Rat Club, at which point Rat was dropped from the name returning it to the original National Mouse Club. The hobby was revived in 1976 with the formation of the English National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS).[1][9] Pet rats are now commonly available in stores and from breeders, and there exist several rat fancy groups worldwide.

Snakes & Feeders Thread

tikusniaga — Mon, 18 Aug 2008 02:03:45 +0800

continuation of tikusniaga's thread.

Tikusniaga Thread

tikusniaga — Mon, 14 Jul 2008 10:42:50 +0800

This thread is dedicated to snakes-lovers for discussions on feeder, husbandry and breeding. Please support to make it a hot thread in Pets Wonderland. Thank you.

Tikusniaga in his office behaving like a young boy. Comfirmed young at heart

This thread is not only a snake thread, it is also a feeder thread. Plus, this thread has a host, his nick is TIKUSNIAGA.

[addedon]July 14, 2008, 10:51 am[/addedon]Information on Ball Python Breeding.

This female is healthy and has good weight to breed.

Your Ball Pythons should be in excellent health and of proper weight and age before breeding attempts are made. The smallest that we have bred males is 500grams and 6 months of age. Females are not considered for breeding unless they are in excess of 1200grams. Providing that they are of adequate weight, females will commonly breed successfully at 18 months of age. As with care, there are many techniques that can be employed to successfully breed Ball Pythons. I will explain the strategies employed at Constrictors Unlimited. Starting in October, the heat tape is turned off at night. The ambient temperatures are allowed to drop into the low 70s. We have our thermostats connected to photocells that turn the heat off when the sun goes down. The lights are on relays that turn them off when the sun goes down. This creates a very natural environment, the sun goes down, the lights go off and it gets cooler. This also simulates a natural photo period as the day length changes.

Males are introduced into the female’s enclosure starting November 1st. Courting and copulations are usually observed within hours of introduction. November and December are usually spent running males through many females to spark the season. Things get serious in January. During this time, we spend hours in the morning palpating females to feel for follicular development. The females that have started developing egg follicles get the most attention and the males are introduced into these female’s enclosures more often.

During the entire breeding season, pairs are separated once a week and food is offered to both the males and females. This rest and meal time is particularly important for the males to give them the stamina to breed all season. Many males and females will refuse to eat during this time, but it is beneficial to offer. Getting a male to take a few mid-season meals can really make a difference in his production and keep him from getting too run down. If your male is not eating during the season, it is critical to keep an eye on him and observe his condition. If he loses a significant amount of weight and begins to look worn out, it is important to pull him from breeding and remove him from the scent of females. In the wild, a male is probably lucky to encounter a couple of females. When breeding in captivity, he is sometimes given access to a new girl everyday. Given the choice between resting and breeding a new girl, he will almost always make the choice to breed without regard to his own well being. There is a point of “no return” with regard to the male’s health and he will breed beyond it. It is up to you to make a decision that he is done for the year.

Ovulation is characterized by a significant mid-bodied swelling.

Starting at the end of January, ovulations begin to be observed. Ovulation is characterized by a significant mid-bodied swelling and a tight constriction of the top portion of the tail. Once ovulation is witnessed, the female is considered gravid and it is no longer necessary to place a male with her. The length of time between initial follicular development and ovulation is highly variable, from a few weeks to as much as 6 months. A couple of weeks after ovulations, the female will shed her skin. This is recorded as a pre-lay shed. She will usually move the bedding around to form a nest. Approximately 30 days after her pre-lay shed, she will lay her eggs.

Typical behavior of a gravid ball python.

just like a pregnant lady, very uncomfortable.

Finally, dropped her eggs.

Eggs

Eggs in DIY incubator filled halfway with vermiculite..

near 30 degree celsius , ideal incubation temperature.

Our females will begin to lay eggs, with an average clutch size of 4 to 8 eggs, in early March. For incubation, we create egg chambers by filling a 12qt Rubbermaid box halfway with vermiculite. Water is added and mixed with the vermiculite just until it clumps, but no water can be squeezed out. It is far better for this mixture to be a little too dry, rather than overly wet. Excess moisture will kill the eggs quickly. If the eggs are observed denting in and they look too dry, they can easily be revived by adding water. Once the proper mix is achieved, the eggs are placed on the vermiculite mixture and the lid is secured on the box. We do not have any holes in the lid or the box. There will be enough air allowed in the box when you open it every couple of days to check the eggs. The box is placed on a shelf in the incubator. There are commercial incubators available, but they usually lack adequate space to incubate more than a couple of clutches. We have converted retired, commercial refrigerators with glass doors into incubators. These are well insulated boxes that allow for observation without opening the doors and will hold almost 50 clutches each. The eggs are incubated at 89F and hatch at an average of 55 days.

Neonates pipping out of their eggs.

Source: Constrictors Unlimited.