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Saga BLM/FL/SV(AichiKikai) MT - FC matters

davidke20 — Sat, 19 Apr 2014 01:56:55 +0800

Saga BLM/FL & 1st batch SV with AichiKikai manual transmission FC related matters
This post is specifically dedicated to AichiKikai transmission variant, other manual transmission users are welcome to practice/use my method, but you may need to vary your parameter in order to match your transmission gear ratio, in order to obtain optimum fuel efficiency.

First of all, I would like to take this opportunity to apologize on my recent lack of participation regarding technical knowledge support on GaGa tered. Reason being, I was diversified exploring more on Plotong Shawie, also quite fedup of question being asked repeatedly. As and when I tried to answer, all I got was skeptical, unbelievable, or sometimes even insult kinda reply. Anyway, let's put all those behind and I would also like to congratulate those manual transmission owner that's being holding up with your horrible ever sohigh rpm on normal highway cruising achipokai gebox! I know it aint easy to NOT curse the car, trust me I felt exactly the same each and everytime when I'm travelling back to my home town.

I've been having many buttaching months with my every sohigh fuel consumption BLM ever since I bought the car. I've done many things trying to improve the fuel consumption, only to find out it's getting worst. At times, when I'm really sticking to the rules, doing everything which is foul to be practical in daily driving, just to get 15km/l for that 1 tank petrol. Ask me again, is it fun? The answer is - NO! 1 wouldn't like to turn the engine off when waiting at traffic light, during the waiting period is very warm, and when the lights about to turn green, as you turn the key to start the car, people will look at you 1 kind. The worst I've tried was at MEX, when reaching the hill top, I turn off my ignition and turn it back to ON, declutch at 5th gear and let the car free roll just to get 1~2km free roll. So, below is the list of unconventional way to save fuel, and the bad side of practicing them:

Fuel saving technique that is common but not quite practical

Switch off engine on traffic light - If you don't know each time crank start your engine is like smoking a cigarette, can shorten your engine lifespan. It may not affect it now, but sure do in the future.
Declutch downhill roll - Without engine braking, crosswind can sweep your car away, can drift, can fly, or even slam to the truck next to your car.
Switch off engine downhill roll - Without engine brake, not even the basic vacuum brake assistance, you need to rely much on your foot strength to stop the car in any emergency event
Switch off aircond and whirl down the window when driving - Aircond compressor indeed eat up torque, but if you switch the thermostat to minimal, the compressor usage will be limited to few seconds in a minute. Driving with windows down, airflow is disturbed. Air being channeled into the cabin will be blocked by your rear windshield, hence create drag. If you use sophisticated software to calculate, the coefficient drag with windows down is not that significant compare to driving with windows up, and yes it truly is, but it's also the same with driving with all the windows up, with minimal setting on the thermostat.
Change gear before 2krpm - This is NOT always the case. Changing gear prematurely will only result in lossing speed, and you'll have to press more on the accelerator in order to gain speed on higher gears.
Pump extra air pressure on tire - Believe that extra air will make the wheel slimmer, so can reduce friction to achieve better fuel efficiency? Don't forget when your wheel get extra pressure, the width reduce but the height increased. So, your engine RPM need extra torque to spin a greater diameter tyres.
Nitrogen filled tyres - It does helps to maintain pressure due to retarded gas being used, less air leak. It somewhat helps in terms of FC if the tyre pressure is being monitored and at optimum operating pressure, but you wouldn't know how pure the nitrogen was filled.
Install after market vacuum module(eg air charger/air booster/adjustable charger with gauge) - All these are vacuum leaker. These over rated equipment are solely depending on marketing strategy to cheat/con on innocent vehicle owner. The're not other than a 3 way release valve, which you can purchase from aquatic pet shops. By installing this valve to allow more air leak into the engine, it helps to cheat the ECU to release more pressure on the fuel regulator, you'll feel more power. Simply because you didn't know when vacuum leak, that means your throttle is already being pressed without you noticing it. See the resemblance of how things works below:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

If those something charger really works, let me teach you 1 best/simple/many fold more powerful than those crap that you purchased in the market with the same amount of investment.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Justify fuel efficiency with your digital fuel gauge - Come on, my 1st bar can last 70km. [@lhwj] 1st car can last up to 120km. My Shawie can last up to maximum 50km only on the 1st bar. Does it mean my Shawie FC worst? No it's not. Usually when people saw their 1st bar lost at 50km, the rest of the tank will be very bad FC because their right foot never bother to save fuel anymore since they think this tank already screwed up for FC run.
Fuel treatment, some call it octane TABLET - If it's in liquid form, yes I believe it. But when you're talking about a solid object... I doubt. Octane itself is to increase the stability of air/fuel mixture(retard flash point). The high octane goes into your STOCK engine, the harder it gets burn enough to convert into energy, the more fuel being burnt and convert into black smoke and you get less power to travel further. How is that supposed to save fuel?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
QUOTE
2,2,4-Trimethylpentane, also known as isooctane or iso-octane, is an organic compound with the formula (CH3)3CCH2CH(CH3)2. It is one of several isomers of octane (C8H18). This particular isomer is the standard 100 point on the octane rating scale (the zero point is n-heptane). It is an important component of gasoline, frequently used in relatively large proportions to increase the knock resistance of the fuel.

Strictly speaking, if the standard meaning of ‘iso’ is followed, the name isooctane should be reserved for the isomer 2-methylheptane. However, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane is by far the most important isomer of octane and so, historically, it has ended up with this name.
Read Wikipedia

If you still feels to choose a bottle and test it, make sure you go through the ingrediants, Can find a list of material being used to decrease knocks. Please refer Wiki
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiknock_agent

So, we're been talking about things that NOT practical, what is practical and useful then? Below is a list of commonly known fuel saving techniques being widely used and found practical and effective.
Fuel saving technique that is common and practical for all kinds of petrol car

Anticipate traffic ahead can avoid braking unnecessarily - Picking up speed burnt a lot more fuel than cruising. So, avoid braking is 1 good thing
Gradual acceleration instead of sudden acceleration - Usually it's not how fast you shift up to save fuel. It's how efficiently 1 put their right foot down the gas pedal. Later part of this discussion, I will include vacuum meter reading for easier understanding what is an optimum gas pedal position.
Get rid of threadless tyres - Usually tayar botak consume more fuel because the contact area of the tyre surface create more friction with the ground, than tyres with thread.
Down size your rim and tyres - Smaller diameter, easier torque distribution, less load to engine, less fuel consumption
Check on tyre pressure every week(if you don't fuel up in a week, then do it the everytime you fuel up) - Make sure you're at the sweetspot of comfort and efficiency. Usually pressure set at 210lb or 30PSi is suffice. If you're a lazy moron, can do up to 260lb or 35PSi. The problem is, when 260lb that time, the car felt extremely bumpy and fuel economy is harder to attain the same efficiency as 210lb.
Register a fuelly account and record on every fuel up - So you can monitor your average fuel consumption. When you have that, your right foot will automatically have more discipline
Always fill up full tank - Often heard people like to put RM30 and fuel up like every other day. Going in/out of the petrol station will take up fuel also. Unless you do like my father, turn off engine and let the car roll into the station, follow by a leg breaking braking to make the car stop.
Make use of point collection reward
Petron - 3000pts = RM45petrol
RM1 = 1pt(none expiry)
Shell bonus link - 3000pts = RM30petrol
RM15 = 8pt
Petronas - Unknown, havent claim before
Remove spoiler - Down force = more weight to the car = higher fuel consumption
Good set of tinting film = Less heat absorb from direct sun light, aircond more efficient, thermostat can go lower, less torque consumption from compressor = ultimately fuel saving

Just 1 last thing, do you know if your aircond gas was overfilled, your cooling power is less efficient and thermostat will have to trigger even longer for the refrigerant to cool down itself instead of cooling down your cabin. The heat exchange hose will be over pressured, your cooling coil will be less efficient due to slow refrigerant traffic. It takes a very skillful magician to tune your cooling system, cold engine bay/hot engine bay and cold engine bay tuning repeatedly to get the best pressure. Here's a video of wellknown MH370 pilot Capt.Zaharie teach you how to tune your aircond system.
[YOUTUBE]ep2-sNzLq_4[/YOUTUBE]

To be continue...

Proton Savvy LYN Club V5

davidke20 — Thu, 06 Mar 2014 06:04:50 +0800

[center]Proton Savvy LYN Club V5[/center]

[center][/center]

Owner listing:
PM me your detail if you wish to add yourself to the name list with detail/format as below:
nickname | year make | transmission | color | variant