Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by nezumitaro

IMPORTANT NEWS

nezumitaro — Tue, 08 Sep 2009 23:22:06 +0800

Serious Talk!! Do not spam or making joke in this thread. Thanks!!

Since no one post it here yet, I will post it here.

If anyone found any new update, kindly post the link here. Since its still under investigation, I will not mentioned the name here. Until 'if' we can see the final news.

If any of you would like to mention or hint the name, kindly use axxgxxb, do not stated the full name here.

This is not only important to Glider owner, as he is a vet, this can happen on any pet's owner. Hope this can bring everyone awareness.

Info:

News @ 8th Sept 2009

TV3 News
-- You will need to register in TV3 website inorder to watch the news, register is FREE.

Utusan News

MyMetro

MStar

Chubbie Hamster V13

nezumitaro — Thu, 06 Aug 2009 16:15:36 +0800

WELCOME TO V13

[center] [/center]

Taroland Newbie Photos

nezumitaro — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:35:48 +0800

noob newbie here.. C & C are most welcome

献丑。。

Chubbie Hamster V12

nezumitaro — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 10:26:20 +0800

[center] [/center]

Sugar Glider V10

nezumitaro — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:18:00 +0800

About Sugar Gliders
Credit to crazymouse_yyh

Last three thread:
Sugar Glider V7
Sugar Glider V8
Sugar Glider V9

Introduction

Sugar gliders are little marsupials that have been taken as exotic pets in many countries. These creatures are different from normal pet rodents like hamsters, mice and rats. They have character, mood swings, emotional bonds and the sweetest nature for a pet that comes in such a small package. Commonly mistaken as flying squirrels, Sugar gliders can be both easy and hard to take care. Their general care is much more complicated than pet rodents and they require alot of affection and attention from its owners. Look at it this way, gliders are like 3 year old kids.... they act cute and can annoy us sometimes while at the same time needs our total attention and bond.

Sugar gliders are tiny gliding opossums from Indonesia, New Guinea, New Zealand and Australia. The gliders that we get as pets in Malaysia are mostly from Indonesia as the other countries limit or does not allow native animals to be exported in the pet trade. Wild sugar gliders live in colonies of 6 to 15 animals in tree hollows or other nests made of vegetation. They are nocturnal so will mainly spend most of their day time asleep, only waking up at early mornings and late at night to forage for food.

An adult sugar glider is about the size of a flying squirrel, approximately 5 to 7 inches long from tip of nose to base of tail. Adults in proper body condition weigh about 120g. The tail is fluffy, often curls on the end and usually is longer than the body length.

Sugar glider joeys are normally a nice slivery grey but as they age, they will shed away this soft joey coat and replace with their true colours. Some glider colours that we have here are the normal greys and a few shades of browns. Some would turn brown if they constantly stay in coconuts coz it stains the fur. You should not worry about the colour for each sugar glider is unique in its own little way.

Where to get a joey? What age and size?

Petshops and suppliers do sell Sugar Gliders but please be aware if the age and size. Some shops may tell you that the younger the joey, the better but do remember, these animals when young needs milk to stay healthy. Also, our local pet milk or cows milk is not suitable since marsupials cannot tolerate lactose that is higher than 3.5%.

A guide to know which is the right age and which is not.
Never get a joey that looks like this:

Original photo by Hun

Photos as reference from www.glideruniversity.org

Underaged sugar gliders..... never get joeys that look like the ones in these pictures. They still need their mother's milk and warmth, they need more attention and more work than properly weaned joeys. Those pics, the joeys are only 3 weeks old Out Of Pouch.... joeys should be separated when they are more than 8 weeks Out Of Pouch... and that is the minimum age. The best age is actually 3 months....

Some people have experience their joeys dying... WHY? Coz the joey is too young, it is depressed and stressed.... a joey that young that is depress will not have any appetite for food, will catch cold and die coz it gives up living.

You should be getting joeys that look like these:

Orginal Photos by Reanne

Original Photo by Hun

Do get joeys that are older than 8 weeks Out Of Pouch. Do more research, look for guidance and information in this thread.

There are many sellers and suppliers here in LYN, so please beware of them. Some may tempt you into getting an underage joey by giving you false information. Some may sell you a pair package in order for a quick sales. Do your research first before buying.

There are a few good homebreeders here but they only have a few joeys available once or twice a year, so this is why it is hard to come about homebreeders.

Sugar Gliders as Pets

Tame Sugar Gliders just make the perfect pocket pet for they can travel anywhere with us in a little bonding pouch. They got happy little personalities that love to play and have physical contact with us. These creatures need attention. They are 100% social animals that live in small colonies in the wild. When we keep them in captivity, we must be able to give them a lot of attention and time. Play, bond, touching and feeding are all little things that we must do each day in order for our gliders to be perfect little healthy pets.

Gliders can live 10 to 15 years in captivity so they are considered a long term commitment. Make sure you can actually care for the glider for about 10 years before you get one.

Gliders are not like dogs, where you can train it with a leash and harness or collar and they can do tricks and come when called. Sugar gliders got minds of toddlers or young children. They need to be socialized and trained as soon as you get them but do not train them as if you would train a puppy. No, they would not react to "Good Boy/Girl, shake hand and beg" kind of training and tricks. Gliders require a soft human touch when training. They can be trained to know their names, just be patient and repeat their names when you cuddle them, handle them, feed them and during play. Gliders will never know where to defecate and relieve themselves like cats and dogs. Litter boxes would not work. These creatures would do it anywhere they please.

Also, gliders are not really domesticated so they do have a few wild habits like scent marking, chewing and gnawing on items or us and also climbing all sorts of high places.

A fact to remember, sugar gliders glide, they do not fly so don't be a genius and try to make your glider fly like a bird. Sugar gliders have a gliding membrane that connects their front paws to their back feet. They will spread open when there is a need to glide. This is why harnesses and leashes should never be on them for it could tear the membrane and hurt them.

Important items to have before purchasing a glider!

- A bounding Pouch and sleeping pouch
- A large cage suitable for the glider in the long run
- Fruits and BML or HPW Diet
- A container of mealworms or crickets
- Knowledge on sugar gliders and joey care
- Get in touch with someone that has experience with gliders.

Males or Females?

It is best not to get a male and female pair. Why is that so? Well, a glider can live for 8 to 12 years on average. A glider can readily breed once mature, some would start breeding at 8 months old while some start only at 2 years. Yes, it may sound tempting to have little joeys but can you be that dedicated? To sell one off can also be heartbreaking for you. So to avoid such pain and also overbreeding for gliders, you should either have a single sex pair or get the male castrated if with a female.

Is there any difference with males and females? Physically yes, females have a pouch on their tummy, it is like a belly button-kind of opening. Males would have their testicles looking like hanging cherries. The males when they mature, would develop a bald patch on its head. This is normal. The bald patch is the scent gland. Males have another scent gland on their chest and also at the anal area. Females do have scent glands to but only at the anal area.

Males musk, means covering their scent all over their territory. Females will mark but very little.

2 males can get along well if there are no females around. But 2 males can fight if a female is about coz they would fight over breeding rights. 2 females get along well too.

If you want to keep a male without all the musking and territorial attitude, get it neutered at a qualified and experience vet. Remember, your pet can live up to 10 years so make the right decision.

If you are thinking about breeding, please please please do read the caresheets and also research more on glider breeding. This is not simple and in the long run, over breeding can stress a glider and can cause it to have a short life span. Not healthy for them.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

General Breeding Information

In this forum, we do not encourage breeding if you do not have the time and knowledge but here are a few websites to guide you if you are curious to know. Also it has pictures and about joey growth:

http://www.petsugargliders.com/sggrowth.php

About milk for gliders:
http://www.wombaroo.com.au/possum.htm

Good Care Sheets:
http://www.exoticpetvet.com/breeds/sugarglider.htm
http://www.sugar-gliders.com/sugar-glider-care.htm
http://ksks.essortment.com/sugarglidercar_rdxi.htm
http://www.sugargliderbabies.com/info.htm
http://www.thesugarshack.com/
http://thepetglider.com/index/
http://www.glideruniversity.org/index/cont...tegory/5/19/64/
http://www.glideruniversity.org/index/cont...tegory/5/25/64/
http://www.glideruniversity.org/index/content/view/36/64/

Chubby Hamster V11

nezumitaro — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:42:07 +0800

Old Thread Chubby Hamsters V10

~~ Credits go to Crazymouse

WELCOME to the new thread, Chubby Hamsters V10!
A hamster is a rodent belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. There are 5 types of hamsters, mainly the Syrian, Winter white dwarf, Russian campbell dwarf, Chinese hamsters and Roborovski hamsters.

SPECIES:

Syrians (Mesocricetus auratus)
They are the best known species in the pet industry. Syrians are also known as Golden Hamsters because the first domestic hamster was a wild agouti colour, which is called Golden. They have also been called Teddy Bears because does have the fuzziness and roundness of a teddy bear. Syrians are known as fancy hamsters of all the hamster species since they come in many colour varieties and also coat varieties... some can have long fur and some short fur, which we normally call Long Hairs and Short Hairs... also there are fur types like Rex and Satin.

The most important rule about Syrians is that they are SOLITARY... never house 2 together. If breeding, there is a way where you must put the female into the male's cage only when the female is on heat. It is very risky and dangerous to house 2 syrians together at any time since they are very well known to fight till death. So if you treasure the life of your hamster, never put 2 syrians together.

Syrians are large and comfortable to hold. They make suitable hamsters for the beginner keeper. Syrians that are handled properly would rarely or never bite, and can be tame to respond well to touch and voice.

Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
Campbells are probably the most popular of all dwarf hamsters since they come in many colour varieties that makes them attractive. The look similar to Winter White hamsters but they are actually different subspecies. So never mixbreed them.

Campbells are dwarfs... well, small hamsters. Please do not be fooled by petshops telling you they are mini hamsters and giving you a weird price and denying that they are Campbells. Anyway, they come in different colour and patterns but to breed, one must understand that hamsters that have any white spots or markings must never be bred together coz it can produce eyeless or teethless hamsters that die later... so if you were to breed, please read up.

These dwarfs may not be suitable for young children due to some dwarfs are bitey... and because of their small size, it would be harder for children to handle. Campbells are not aggressive biters, it is just that sometimes they will bite when you make them angry or startle them from their sleep.

Campbells are good in a pair or a small colony but always make sure your cage or tank has the space and enough hides and wheels to house a colony. These social hamsters are territorial and would fight off intruders that do not belong to their colony. Campbells are ok when they are introduced at a young age but letting an older hamster be kept with a younger one, most likely a fight would start.

Winter White Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
WW are hamsters that can change their coat colour when we minimise their daylight. Their coats will change from their normal colours to a white coat but with their dorsal stripe and side arches visible. WW come in 3 colours, which are Agouti, Sapphire and Pearl. The Pearl do not change their coat colour at all, they remain in their white coat colour for life.

WW are different from Campbells, their eyes are bigger, fur is thicker, body is more bullet shape and their ears are less conspicious. It is easy to see the difference if a Campbell and WW were side by side.

WWs are nicer to handle for they have better temperments than Campbells. WW rarely change into their winter coats in captivity, so do not force your hamster to starve and stay in a cold room... this depends on the hamster whether it wants to change or not.

WW are almost similar with Campbells when it comes to pairs and colonies. Always remember, it doesn't necessary mean we should keep them in breeding pairs or male and female colonies. A single sex group is good enough for dwarf hamsters.

WW are known to fight among themselves out of the blue. Many do not understand that WW are territorial dwarfs, they can tolerate siblings or with other WW when introduced at a young age but there would always be a day where they would start fighting. Have spare cages at hand to separate fighting hamsters if you have a pair or a small colony. The best is keeping one. Do not worry, hamsters do not die from loneliness.

Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii)
Robos are the smallest species of hamster. Adult Robos are only 2 inches in lenght. Unlike the other dwarfs, Robos do not have a dorsal stripe and they have slightly longer legs. Easy to identify from the size and also its sandy colour and white belly.

Yes, the smallest and also the fastest, this species is very well known for being very fast and active. So they are not very handle friendly since they are likely to jump or run off your palm. Many are really attracted by the facial markings, they appear to have "eyebrows".

Robos enjoy sand baths and a wheel. Due to their small size, one would need to purchase a glass/plastic tank to house them or purchase cages with small bars like the Habitrail Mini...

Robos do very well in little groups. They are the most sociable of all dwarf species and it is very entertaining to watch a small group of robos playing and eating in a tank.

Robos are not a hamster that is suitable for the beginner keeper as it could either be frustrating to have hamsters that run very fast or just unable to handle properly.

Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus)
The Chinese hamster is known for their mousy looks. Yes, they were discovered in China long ago. Many people would say Chinese hamsters are hard to breed in captivity and are difficult to raise. Fighting problems occur so it is best to house them seperately. The Chinese hamster is also referred to as a "mouse-like" hamster because of its short nose, thin body, stocky legs and longer tail.

They do make great pets if they are bred by a proper breeder and have been handled often when young.

This species of hamster in Malaysia is very rare. The last known shop to have sold them were Pets Wonderland at Mid Valley years ago.

========================================================================

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

- Most hamsters do very well alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed but Syrians, Campbells, Winter Whites and Chinese hamsters are best kept on their own. They are always happier that way.

- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so.

- Hamster fights are never fun to watch.

- Always remember to have food and water available. Never give too much fresh foods as it can give diarrhea to some hamsters, especially pet shop hamsters that have never eaten any veggie before.

- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.

- Syrians need wheels that are about 8 inches in diameter. Wodent Wheels, Sanko Wheels or Silent Spinners have 8 inch wheels.

- NEVER keep different species in 1 cage or tank together... BIG big trouble there, may have some injuries, deaths... and possibility of mixbreeding Campbells with WW... bad idea.

- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not feel Love or have emotional feelings like humans. So there really is no reason to breed or keep them in a male and female pair unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.

- Hamsters should have a small portion of fresh food everyday. Limit to a teaspoon a day for a Syrian, half a teaspoon of fresh food to dwarfs. Give more leafy veggies.

=========================================================================

Diet

Hamsters should have a good quality staple diet that is available for them throughout the day. Grains are important for hamsters to gain protein, minerals and vitamins as well as the good fat that the body needs to stay healthy. The carbohydrates and natural sugars from grains helps in maintaining your hamster's energy and alertness throughout the day. Wrong or unhealthy diets could cause hamsters to gain weight, show no interest in using it's running wheel and does little throughout the day. Here is a guide on how to feed your hamster healthily.

Try not to go for cheap foods that you see available in the market. Habitrail, Delikate, LM Farms.... all these have little nutritional value because they are loaded with sunflower seeds and dried corn. High in fat and phosphorus. Delikate and Habitrail staple food includes alot of alfalfa pellets (the greenish brown pieces) which hamsters do not like to eat at all and you may end up throwing it away. Choose high quality brands like:

Harry Hamster - it has quite alot of coloured pellets but quite nutritious and my hamsters eat everything.

Prestige Hamster Nature - Loaded with top quality grains, pellets and dried fruits and herbs. Superb and nutritious for every hamster.

Vitakraft Hamster Menu - Well rounded hamster diet, it has some dried veggies like carrots and peas. Better than Habitrail Staple diet.

Kaytee Forti Diet Hamster - the ingredient list on grains and protein level is ok but one thing worrying is the preservative called Ethoxyquin, which is not good. Do not use this food in long term.

I will update with more brands later.

Fresh food

Hamsters need a small amount of fresh fruits and veggies daily. Never give more than a teaspoon of fresh food to a hamster in a day as sometimes it can cause diarrhea. Dwarf hamsters, expecially Campbells should not be given too much fruits as Campbells are prone to get diabetes from sugary fruits.

Fruits: (Make sure all the seeds that are not edible are removed, grape seeds too)
Apple, Blueberries, Cherries, Cranberries, Dragon Fruit, Grapes, Honey Dew, Kiwi, Mango, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Plum, Rambutan, Star Fruit, Sun Melon, Strawberries, Watermelon.

Try not to offer too much sourish fruits like kiwi or strawberries, the high acid content can cause diarrhea if taken too much.

Veggies:
Alfalfa Sprouts, Asparagus, Broccoli, Bak Choy, Bean Sprouts, Capsicum(Bell Pepper), Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Corn, Coriander, Frozen peas, French Bean, Kangkong, Long Bean, Lady Fingers, Mustard Green(Sawi/Choy sum), Parsley, Peas, Pumpkin, Spinach, Water Chestnut, Water Cress.

Cabbage and cucumber can be offered but in very very small amounts.

Always remember, everything in moderation is good.

Supplement food:
Fresh Veges & Fruits Diet

contact Nezumitaro or jtl

Chubby Hamster V10

nezumitaro — Fri, 22 Aug 2008 09:12:25 +0800

Old Thread Chubby Hamsters V9

~~ Credits go to Crazymouse

WELCOME to the new thread, Chubby Hamsters V10!
A hamster is a rodent belonging to the subfamily Cricetinae. There are 5 types of hamsters, mainly the Syrian, Winter white dwarf, Russian campbell dwarf, Chinese hamsters and Roborovski hamsters.

SPECIES:

Syrians (Mesocricetus auratus)
They are the best known species in the pet industry. Syrians are also known as Golden Hamsters because the first domestic hamster was a wild agouti colour, which is called Golden. They have also been called Teddy Bears because does have the fuzziness and roundness of a teddy bear. Syrians are known as fancy hamsters of all the hamster species since they come in many colour varieties and also coat varieties... some can have long fur and some short fur, which we normally call Long Hairs and Short Hairs... also there are fur types like Rex and Satin.

The most important rule about Syrians is that they are SOLITARY... never house 2 together. If breeding, there is a way where you must put the female into the male's cage only when the female is on heat. It is very risky and dangerous to house 2 syrians together at any time since they are very well known to fight till death. So if you treasure the life of your hamster, never put 2 syrians together.

Syrians are large and comfortable to hold. They make suitable hamsters for the beginner keeper. Syrians that are handled properly would rarely or never bite, and can be tame to respond well to touch and voice.

Campbell's Hamster (Phodopus campbelli)
Campbells are probably the most popular of all dwarf hamsters since they come in many colour varieties that makes them attractive. The look similar to Winter White hamsters but they are actually different subspecies. So never mixbreed them.

Campbells are dwarfs... well, small hamsters. Please do not be fooled by petshops telling you they are mini hamsters and giving you a weird price and denying that they are Campbells. Anyway, they come in different colour and patterns but to breed, one must understand that hamsters that have any white spots or markings must never be bred together coz it can produce eyeless or teethless hamsters that die later... so if you were to breed, please read up.

These dwarfs may not be suitable for young children due to some dwarfs are bitey... and because of their small size, it would be harder for children to handle. Campbells are not aggressive biters, it is just that sometimes they will bite when you make them angry or startle them from their sleep.

Campbells are good in a pair or a small colony but always make sure your cage or tank has the space and enough hides and wheels to house a colony. These social hamsters are territorial and would fight off intruders that do not belong to their colony. Campbells are ok when they are introduced at a young age but letting an older hamster be kept with a younger one, most likely a fight would start.

Winter White Hamster (Phodopus sungorus)
WW are hamsters that can change their coat colour when we minimise their daylight. Their coats will change from their normal colours to a white coat but with their dorsal stripe and side arches visible. WW come in 3 colours, which are Agouti, Sapphire and Pearl. The Pearl do not change their coat colour at all, they remain in their white coat colour for life.

WW are different from Campbells, their eyes are bigger, fur is thicker, body is more bullet shape and their ears are less conspicious. It is easy to see the difference if a Campbell and WW were side by side.

WWs are nicer to handle for they have better temperments than Campbells. WW rarely change into their winter coats in captivity, so do not force your hamster to starve and stay in a cold room... this depends on the hamster whether it wants to change or not.

WW are almost similar with Campbells when it comes to pairs and colonies. Always remember, it doesn't necessary mean we should keep them in breeding pairs or male and female colonies. A single sex group is good enough for dwarf hamsters.

WW are known to fight among themselves out of the blue. Many do not understand that WW are territorial dwarfs, they can tolerate siblings or with other WW when introduced at a young age but there would always be a day where they would start fighting. Have spare cages at hand to separate fighting hamsters if you have a pair or a small colony. The best is keeping one. Do not worry, hamsters do not die from loneliness.

Roborovski Hamster (Phodopus roborovskii)
Robos are the smallest species of hamster. Adult Robos are only 2 inches in lenght. Unlike the other dwarfs, Robos do not have a dorsal stripe and they have slightly longer legs. Easy to identify from the size and also its sandy colour and white belly.

Yes, the smallest and also the fastest, this species is very well known for being very fast and active. So they are not very handle friendly since they are likely to jump or run off your palm. Many are really attracted by the facial markings, they appear to have "eyebrows".

Robos enjoy sand baths and a wheel. Due to their small size, one would need to purchase a glass/plastic tank to house them or purchase cages with small bars like the Habitrail Mini...

Robos do very well in little groups. They are the most sociable of all dwarf species and it is very entertaining to watch a small group of robos playing and eating in a tank.

Robos are not a hamster that is suitable for the beginner keeper as it could either be frustrating to have hamsters that run very fast or just unable to handle properly.

Chinese Hamster (Cricetulus griseus)
The Chinese hamster is known for their mousy looks. Yes, they were discovered in China long ago. Many people would say Chinese hamsters are hard to breed in captivity and are difficult to raise. Fighting problems occur so it is best to house them seperately. The Chinese hamster is also referred to as a "mouse-like" hamster because of its short nose, thin body, stocky legs and longer tail.

They do make great pets if they are bred by a proper breeder and have been handled often when young.

This species of hamster in Malaysia is very rare. The last known shop to have sold them were Pets Wonderland at Mid Valley years ago.

========================================================================

VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

- Most hamsters do very well alone. Roborovski hamsters can be kept in small groups and best if single sexed but Syrians, Campbells, Winter Whites and Chinese hamsters are best kept on their own. They are always happier that way.

- Never breed hamsters if you do not have the space. Hamsters can reproduce every 20 days or so.

- Hamster fights are never fun to watch.

- Always remember to have food and water available. Never give too much fresh foods as it can give diarrhea to some hamsters, especially pet shop hamsters that have never eaten any veggie before.

- The bigger the cage or tank, the more comfortable for the hamster.

- Syrians need wheels that are about 8 inches in diameter. Wodent Wheels, Sanko Wheels or Silent Spinners have 8 inch wheels.

- NEVER keep different species in 1 cage or tank together... BIG big trouble there, may have some injuries, deaths... and possibility of mixbreeding Campbells with WW... bad idea.

- Hamsters do not have human emotion, they do not feel Love or have emotional feelings like humans. So there really is no reason to breed or keep them in a male and female pair unless you have a purpose as a true hamster breeder.

- Hamsters should have a small portion of fresh food everyday. Limit to a teaspoon a day for a Syrian, half a teaspoon of fresh food to dwarfs. Give more leafy veggies.

=========================================================================

Diet

Hamsters should have a good quality staple diet that is available for them throughout the day. Grains are important for hamsters to gain protein, minerals and vitamins as well as the good fat that the body needs to stay healthy. The carbohydrates and natural sugars from grains helps in maintaining your hamster's energy and alertness throughout the day. Wrong or unhealthy diets could cause hamsters to gain weight, show no interest in using it's running wheel and does little throughout the day. Here is a guide on how to feed your hamster healthily.

Try not to go for cheap foods that you see available in the market. Habitrail, Delikate, LM Farms.... all these have little nutritional value because they are loaded with sunflower seeds and dried corn. High in fat and phosphorus. Delikate and Habitrail staple food includes alot of alfalfa pellets (the greenish brown pieces) which hamsters do not like to eat at all and you may end up throwing it away. Choose high quality brands like:

Harry Hamster - it has quite alot of coloured pellets but quite nutritious and my hamsters eat everything.

Prestige Hamster Nature - Loaded with top quality grains, pellets and dried fruits and herbs. Superb and nutritious for every hamster.

Vitakraft Hamster Menu - Well rounded hamster diet, it has some dried veggies like carrots and peas. Better than Habitrail Staple diet.

Kaytee Forti Diet Hamster - the ingredient list on grains and protein level is ok but one thing worrying is the preservative called Ethoxyquin, which is not good. Do not use this food in long term.

I will update with more brands later.

Fresh food

Hamsters need a small amount of fresh fruits and veggies daily. Never give more than a teaspoon of fresh food to a hamster in a day as sometimes it can cause diarrhea. Dwarf hamsters, expecially Campbells should not be given too much fruits as Campbells are prone to get diabetes from sugary fruits.

Fruits: (Make sure all the seeds that are not edible are removed, grape seeds too)
Apple, Blueberries, Cherries, Cranberries, Dragon Fruit, Grapes, Honey Dew, Kiwi, Mango, Papaya, Peach, Pear, Plum, Rambutan, Star Fruit, Sun Melon, Strawberries, Watermelon.

Try not to offer too much sourish fruits like kiwi or strawberries, the high acid content can cause diarrhea if taken too much.

Veggies:
Alfalfa Sprouts, Asparagus, Broccoli, Bak Choy, Bean Sprouts, Capsicum(Bell Pepper), Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Corn, Coriander, Frozen peas, French Bean, Kangkong, Long Bean, Lady Fingers, Mustard Green(Sawi/Choy sum), Parsley, Peas, Pumpkin, Spinach, Water Chestnut, Water Cress.

Cabbage and cucumber can be offered but in very very small amounts.

Always remember, everything in moderation is good.

Supplement food:

Both products can be found at Pet Shack or just PM Nezumitaro.

~**~ Vote for your favourite photo *~**~

nezumitaro — Mon, 11 Aug 2008 10:19:00 +0800

VIEW THE PHOTOS HERE!!!<-- HERE HERE!! Click HERE!!

All participants are entitle to redeem your small Uncle Taro's Gift in Pet Shack, Sunway, Date: ON 30TH AUGUST 2008..

A SMALL GATHERING, PRIZE GIVING will be held in Pet Shack on 30th August 2008. Hope you will come join us for fun!

Uncle Taro's Yippee-Booth

Keep you eyes on Uncle Taro’s Yippee-Booth, Yippee-Event may happen anytime. This is to encourage and rewarding pet lovers to feed their pets a BALANCED & PROPER diet. Would like to apologies that Uncle Taro’s Yippee-Events may not be very fancy, as Uncle Taro is not really into business, wallet is not that ‘well feed’ . Hope pet lovers will have some little fun here, and more pet owners understand the important of a proper balanced diet, then we will have a better pet tomorrow.

Here come the 1st Uncle Taro’s Yippee-Event!!!

~**~* Photo competition.*~**~

Title: Get chubby in the HEALTHY way, get Uncle Taro’s Nutri-Smoothie.

Photo: A ‘Before’ and ‘After’ photo of your Hamster or Gerbil on Uncle Taro’s Nutri-Smoothie diet.

Vote Closing Date: 24th August 2008.

Prizes & Gifts

1st Prize: 1 pack of Prestige Hamster Nature 800gm

2nd Prize: 1 pack of Hoppel-Mobble Hamster

3rd Prize: 2 packs of Bengy Toilet Sand

All participants are entitle to redeem your small Uncle Taro's Gift in Pet Shack, Sunway, Date: ON 30TH AUGUST 2008..

If you have not try UncleTaro’s Nutri-Smoothie, GET IT NOW!!!
If you are feeding Uncle Taro’s Nutri-Smoothie, KEEP IT UP!!!

HAVE FUN YA!!

Any questions about the Balanced Diet are welcome here

1st Uncle Taro's Yippee-Event

nezumitaro — Wed, 16 Jul 2008 17:33:01 +0800

please read here !!! please read here !!!

This thread is for photo competition only, kindly keep it clean for only photos.

Any questions or discussions, are welcome to post in Chubby Hamsters V9 or Uncle Taro's Yippee-Booth.

Thank you for your co-operation.

please read here !!! please read here !!!

anything you need to know PLEASE PM ME!!! STOP POSTING HERE!!

Breeding Ethics

nezumitaro — Mon, 03 Sep 2007 13:13:42 +0800

this is not only for small animal, its for animal A - Z

read this b4 u breed, check it urself are ready for it. click here or as below..

Ethics:
The first thing you need to think about before breeding is the ethics. The word Ethics means " theory or a system of moral values."

All breeders have 'ethics' although some aren't at all correct. All experienced breeders have their ethics and aims and will be able to tell you what these are.

There is indeed only one correct, ethically and morally right reason for breeding a hamster. This is:

*to make a distinct improvement on the quality of the parents* (e.g. colour, size, shape, temperament etc)

This is the ONLY reason for breeding, however there is a long list of WRONG ethics used for breeding. Some examples of these are:

*Because I love my hamsters and I want more like him/her/them.
*Because I want more hamsters of the same colour.
*Because I know people who want a hamster too.
*Because I want to make some money.
*Because I want some babies to look after.
*Because my hamsters were lonely and I thought it would only be fair/natural for them to have babies.

No true breeder should EVER say any of the above as his or her aim.

Millions (literally) of hamsters are abandoned and euthanased every year because so many people are breeding indiscriminately and instead of finding safe and loving homes many of the resulting babies spend their entire lives with the RSPCA or a similar animal shelter with very little or no love and attention.

Rather like being put in prison yourself but for absolutely no reason other than the world is over populated. At what point do we decide who is going to be stuck in prison (rescue shelter)? Who could possibly deserve that fate?

Answer? No one!

If you would like a pet hamster, why not get a hamster from a rescue shelter and feel like you are saving a life rather than buying a hamster or breeding a hamster and know that you could be condemning another 1-24 hamsters to death if you cannot find suitable homes for them?

Going back to the wrong ethics.

Because I love my hamsters and I want more like him/her/them.

This is NOT a good reason to breed! The babies are not clones of the parents and who is to say they won't all be 'horrible' hamsters? Who is to say they will look the same? Genetics rarely works as simply as that.

Because I want more hamsters of the same colour.

Unless you have researched your hamster's colours and the parent's colours of both the male and the female, then it is highly unlikely that you will be able to guarantee the colours of the babies, it can be guessed but never accurately.

Because I know people who want a hamster too.

It's far better for all involved if you pass on the number of a respectable breeder or rescue centre to these 'other people' rather than try to breed your own. You could also refer them to this site allowing them chance to read through the relevant care sheet and take a look at the forum on my 'links' page.

Because I want to make some money.

I can assure you, there is absolutely NO money in breeding hamsters! By the time you have paid for all the bedding, the food, the cages, the toys, the accessories such as water bottles and you only get a litter of 3 babies... there is NO way you are going to make any money, you will just lose it!

Because I want some babies to look after

Then you are better off taking up childcare! The female hamster does all of the caring for the babies and in fact, the babies shouldn't even be looked at for the first two weeks of their life, by which time they look like a small version of an adult hamster.

Because my hamsters were lonely and I thought it would only be fair/natural for them to have babies.

Your hamsters don't want to have babies. Honestly. They come into season and males react to this because it is natural. Syrians do not get lonely. They don't enjoy the act of mating (in fact it would be considered anthropomorphic to say that they do!). They do not enjoy looking after their babies, it is just something they do to pass on their genetics and ensure the survival of their species. It really isn't possible to apply human emotions and feelings onto an animal such as a hamster because they don't have the capability to feel as we do or see the world as we do.

When experienced breeders decide to breed their hamsters, they will:

*Make sure they have money set aside in case of emergency or vet bills.
*Have cages ready for when the babies need them.
*Have the food and bedding ready.
*Have plans as to who is having one of the baby hamsters (knowing that litters can get as large as 24)
*Have ethics and reasons for breeding already sorted.

Professional or expert breeders breed their hamsters for the best colour, size, shape and temperament. Pet shop hamsters should not be used and only 'pure' hamsters are bred from (there is currently a huge problem in the UK with hybrid dwarf hamsters). Their hamsters are bred to improve the species, create a better understanding of genetics and the colour combinations and, of course, to create the best hamster possible for showing purposes.

Organic Vegetarian Formula supplement

nezumitaro — Tue, 28 Aug 2007 11:05:48 +0800

An Organic Vegetarian Formula supplement for you Hamster, Gerbils, Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Dog & Cat

Not sure if this thread will be delate, but my main point is just to share, no profit i am making.

since there are not much suppliment for small animal in the market. and i had found this is very good for my gerbils, and its organic all vegetarian formula. which i had check the ingredients, it is suitable for hamster, rats, mouse, gerbil and rabbit too.

Ingredients: Flax Seed (whole and defatted), Sunflower Seed (whole and defatted), Sesame Seed (whole and defatted), Rice Germ and Bran, Oat Germ and Bran*, Soy Sprouts, Ginger, Dandelion Leaf, Barley Grass, Carrot, Parsley, Chrysanthemum, Beets, Lemon Grass, Digestive Enzyme Blend (protease, lipase, amylase, cellulase, maltase, glucoamylase, invertase, pectinase with phytase, lactase), Alfalfa Grass, Pumpkin Seed, Broccoli, Kelp, Yucca, Hawthorn Berry, Milk Thistle, Burdock Root, Red Clover, Tomato, Kale, Artichoke, Dandelion Root, Oat Grass, Rosemary, Thyme, Sage, Rye Grass, Bee Pollen, Dulse, Chlorella.

i supplement this since the baby gerbils start eating. so far most of them are chubby and in good health, at least non sick till now. and they growing in good size.

Starter / Filler Pack with pets

nezumitaro — Tue, 21 Aug 2007 12:36:40 +0800

As some of you know I am a hobbyist Mongolian Gerbil breeder, this survey is not for profit purpose. Its just a thought of convinience for the buyer.

As I understand everyone likes to decorate their own tank for their pets, but some of the necessities are the same in the market, like Plastic Tank, Bedding, Hay and Water Bottle. It may be more convinient for the buyer if I get them all the things, and they can have the starter pack in 1 go when picking up the pets? What do you prefer?

[WTC]Suet

nezumitaro — Wed, 25 Apr 2007 16:43:12 +0800

beware of same user, con activity still on:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/855423

==================================================

regards the above mentioned person. i sold her few gerbils.

as for the 1st trade she is good and looks like an animal lover, so we go for a 2nd trade. as she give me a reason of bf not allow to BUY pets anymore, so canot pay me infront of him. so said will pay me online n so..

i PM her alot of time, sending a lot of reminder, sending my account numberssss with difference bank as easy for her to bank in , in the near by bank.

but she keep saying she is SOO BUSY n FORGET. till now she goes MIA.

as she is a moderator. alot user will sure give a certain level of trust.

but after this... i think even MODERATOR or ADIM, WE STILL NEED TO BECAREFUL....

sad to see this, hope my gerbils are goos with her...

Platelets Donor needed URGENTLY!

nezumitaro — Thu, 12 Apr 2007 09:21:32 +0800

Male Platelets Donor needed!!!

As some people may saw my post before about my cousin who has Acute Myeloid Leukemia.

Everything goes smooth till now. He is in the progress of marrow transplant now. Platelets Donor is needed again.

Below are the information:

Hospital: SJMC Subang Jaya, Selangor.
Name: Foo Yong Suan
Donor: Male
Blood Type: All Type
Date Needed: 17th April 2007 onwards
Blood Bank office time: Mon - Fri, 8.30am - 3.30pm

As Platelets cell life is short, about 7 days. So platelets needed to be fresh, its not like blood donation, as the blood can me store up for some time.

Duration of donation is about 3 hours, 1 hour for blood test report and platelets for 2 hours. Blood test in advance is available, so can go for blood test when you are free, then hospital will call and inform you if you are able to donate. When my cousin needed for platelets, hospital will give you a call to arrange the time.

Once again to THANKS all the people had help us.

Wish everyone in good health!!

what is Platelets??

our blood contain 3 main cell:

Red Blood Cell: carry Oxygen
White Blood Cell: Immuim System
Platelets: to Clot our blood when we are bleeding

How to donate?? Why only male??

it is difference from blood donation. As we only need the platelets but not the other redn white cells. A machine will extract the platelets from your blood n bump the red n white cell back to your body.

in the process of bumping the blood back to u, ur blood vessel hv to be big enought to hv a good flow. that is why female normal canot donate platelets. even small blood vessel male canot donate too but mostly man will able to.

Planted Aquarium

nezumitaro — Wed, 21 Mar 2007 09:52:15 +0800

A Home away from Home.

Gerbils Hut V4

nezumitaro — Thu, 08 Feb 2007 17:36:07 +0800

Old thread has a lot of information, do visit it eventhough old.
Gerbil III

Gerbil information:
The gerbils I have are Mongolian Gerbils. They are pretty easy to care for and are generally more active and are friendlier than hamsters.

Gerbils make great pets for older children and adults. Tame and friendly, gerbils rarely bite or never bite at all. Once a while they do nip to test their surroundings or to give you a warning. Nipping is not painful.
Gerbils need to live in pairs, same sex pairs or mating pairs because they will become depressed and lonely. Aggressive and possive gerbils do occur and they should live solitarily once you find out they hate other gerbils but you as an owner need to give more attention to a single gerbil.

Why a pair? Well, gerbils are colony animals. They need to feel safe and secure in a family. Once they are alone, they become depress and will be destructive by chewing on everything they find, tend to dig at the tank's corners the whole day without stop, show nervousness and other unhealthy activities.

Gerbils do not have odours, the males have a bit but you will never notice it at all. They are clean, not smelly. They do not urinate much coz they are desert animals and do not consume much water. You still need to provide clean drinking water to them. If your gerbil doesn't like water, provide more leafy vegetables and fruits(non-citrius) for them to consume.

Gerbils are very hardy, they do not easily get sick. Gerbils can have allergy reactions to beddings. Always provide the best dustless beddings. Do go for some brands like Chipsi Classic/Super, Aspen shavings, corn cob... DO NOT USE CEDAR OR PINE!!!! These woods can cause serious health damage to all small animals.
The bedding needs to be changed once a week. The most is once every 2 weeks. The best bedding for gerbils is providing them with a mix. They and mix :

Hay(timothy or any bedding hay)
Wood shavings
Wood chips/corn cob
Paper(tissue or plain white shredded paper)

This mix will provide the best digging mix for a gerbil. You will need to fill up about 8cm of bedding cause gerbils are DIGGERS! They need to dig and make tunnels and burrows to satisfy their natural instinct.

How about breeding?
Please see the link below... breeding is not easy as it will cost money and time and space. So think carefully before breeding. Also, it takes a lot of studying of the genetics to get the best colour quality from a pair. Some gerbils can only produce black and agouti pups.... so that is why the genetics have to be studied. Breeding needs a goal, to be a breeder one must never think of money but the goal of getting new colours or promoting the pet. If any information needed on breeding, PM Nezumitaro, jaswwp or me(crazymouse_yyh)

You CANNOT pull their tails or it will come off. No, gerbils are not lizards, they come off coz their tails have very sensitive nerves and skin, pulling hard can detached the bone and tear the skin, resulting in the lost of a tail.

Important stuff to have before getting a gerbil:

1.5ft Aquarium with lid- you can get plastic or glass, plastic is easier to clean. The bigger, the better. (rm30 to rm40 for plastic) DO NOT CAGE THEM! Examples:

Hamster staple food- Any brand would do but best is Hagen to me. Gerbils prefer food mix with more grains and nuts than pellets.

Treats- Wooden chews, peanuts, dog biscuits and bread are great treats.

Water bottle- They need a bottle but if you don't want them to tear the bottle up, searh the internet for tips on making a bottle guard or cage. I feed my gerbils water using a bowl and watch them drink their fill and take away he bowl. Gerbils do not need much water if you feed them fruits and vege often.

Vege and fruits- Important to have in their diet. Give mustard greens(Sawi/Choy Sum), apples and carrots, french beans, lettuce. PUMPKIN makes an excellent treat!!! It deworms the intestines as well.

Toys- Gerbils love wooden stuff to chew, cardboard box to chew and glass cups and small clay flower pots to play in. Do not buy plastic toys coz they will chew them and you will waste your money.

Hide Box- Gerbils like to sleep in hide boxes. You can DIY one from an old coconut shell, buy a wooden one or plainly make one out from wooden ice cream sticks and PVA glue.

Wood Shavings and Wood Chips- No pine or cedar, please use aspen shavings or chipsi wood shavings. Pine and Cedar will cause breathing problems and watery eyes. Wood Chips are a good substitute if you can't find proper wood shavings.

Timothy Hay- Gerbils love hay. They chew it, build nest with it and sleep in it.

Alfalfa Hay- High in protein and is still good for gerbils to nibble and chew and make their nest.

Sand Bath- When your gerbil's fur looks ruffled and dull, give them a sand bath. You can get this cleaning sand that is for hamsters, works well and will make a gerbil look all velvety and clean looking.

Bedding Hay/Straw- You can try Russel Hay or Sluis Comfort Hay. These hay are used to build nest... cheaper than Timothy and Alfalfa hay.... and smells nice too.

Updated!!!!!

I do not give out mating pairs. Strictly only single sex pairs.

I will only consider letting go breeding pairs if you can convince me you are a good keeper.

Those in the waiting list, if you are thinking twice about gerbils, do inform me. PM me for more info.

- Gerbils like to have friends. So get them a playmate. A pair at least.

- Only have single sex gerbil clans unless you want to breed. You would need a lot of tanks to breed gerbils.

- Gerbils like wooden toys and hides to feel secure and healthy.

- Never mix gerbils with other small rodents like rats, mice or hamsters.... there may be casualties later on.

- Never give plastic to gerbils, they will chew it to bits and may ingest some which could cause a health problem.

- Gerbils are not nocturnal, there are awake throughout the day, with naps in between.

- Provide extra protein for gerbils with cooked egg, mealworms and crickets.

- Food such as lentils, wheat germ, rolled oats, rice, pasta, oat biscuits, dog and cat kibble, bird seeds are good food for gerbils.

Useful Websites:

http://www.sensi-media.com/gerbil/domestic.htm - thanks to Jaswwp

http://www.gerbils.co.uk/

http://www.abcgerbils.com/

http://www.agsgerbils.org/

http://www.petermaas.nl/gerbils/english.htm

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/e...bils/colors.htm

http://www.gerbilbreeding.com/gene.htm - thanks to Nezumitaro

http://home.wtal.de/ehr/gerbils/colors.htm

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Park/6961/index.html

~ Quote Crazymouse_yyh

Pls help! what bird is this?

nezumitaro — Thu, 02 Nov 2006 10:25:46 +0800

wat bird is this? we feed him some sugar water, so much better now.. hope he can make it..

thanks for ur help.

Why not Gerbil as your pet?

nezumitaro — Thu, 05 Oct 2006 23:26:25 +0800

Mongolian Gerbil is a very good pets for me, because they are odourless n rarely bite. they are very entertaining, because they will sleep or active anytime during the day n night. you can pick them out to play anytime you like, they will not angry with you.

But what stop you from giving them a try?

Price?
Mousy looks?

Please share.

When will you bring your pet to visit the vet?

nezumitaro — Fri, 29 Sep 2006 09:44:07 +0800

Sorry 'Begaining' as 'Beginning'

I found that, alot of pets lover will still posting here, asking what they should do, while their pets are seriously sick. The 1st question come to me is 'Why don't send to vet？？'

Because I am an over worries owner, i keep visiting my vet, until he told my doggie, 'Taro, please only visit me when you are real sick!!' give Taro a slap on his butt, and ask him to go home.

i know i am always over worried, but i just canot understand why some ppl will wait until the last minute?

How to take good animals photos?

nezumitaro — Mon, 11 Sep 2006 13:18:13 +0800

I always like to take photo of my pets, but how to get a good shot? below are some of my photos, advise pls...

sometime when i take photo of my gerbils, i can see myself from the tank.. wat can i do to avoid it?
and also some orange golden gerbil don't looks good with flash.. wat can i do?
the example: