Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by Dezs

Apa Roadblock Haram Jadah Ni

Dezs — Thu, 13 Oct 2022 12:14:11 +0800

Hemm tak cayak, go check google mep: https://www.google.com/maps/@2.8973876,101....#33;5m1!1e1

Or tengellam meh? So long stretch? Jenguk luar macam panas jer...

So hard to live near where u work meh?

Dezs — Thu, 22 Sep 2022 08:27:07 +0800

Unker sewa rumah kirja Mon-Fri in PJ area so can drive jam free against traffic to unker 3-4 working locations daily. Sat & Sun bohbian baru balik to true home for weekend ~~paip~~piap session.

Inb4 unker also slave need sewa kirja bilik to pigi kirja Mon-Fri. Tapi....got Mon-Fri piap2 "tapau" option yaaw. Gooding.... Inb4 ahmoi get free piap2 tapau option Mon-Fri also. Win-win

Sekian. Unker so heppi see Marehsia rage on the road sebab sendiri sohai. Complain2 tapi sendiri yg mati2 nak tinggal jauh2, sendiri taknak duduk dekat oppis, sendiri yg nak jam, sendiri yg nak bayo minyak, toll, lepas tu nak komplen2 orang laen buat jam.

Fuu Aussie Kasi Marehsia Femes

Dezs — Tue, 30 Aug 2022 23:55:51 +0800

Inb4 unker selow. Unker just gatal cari, then find Aussie no gip face kasi Marehsia femes. No discount at all, best price only.

[YOUTUBE]opKCcemJtPw[/YOUTUBE]

Inb4 kepit very big balls back then.... "NO RETREAT NO SURRENDER!!!" Entah lepas tu bikmama make him kepit bekum the semua tatau in court ke..

How to Tuang Petrol without Spilling

Dezs — Tue, 16 Aug 2022 23:17:16 +0800

So unker boughted 10L x 2 gasoline botois for fuel hedging and long distance hutan travel needs, so like extend 50% tangki from 40L to 60L much yass.. If unker drive like ~~sohai~~"real unker" this means 20km/l X 60L = 1200km range fuiyoooooo...

Now testing my refuel process without potentially turning me and my car interior into a flammable tong. Sudah cuba 2 kali tuang, 1st did the sibeh bobo front lift method FUARKK whole hand leg semua tumpah... use brain round 2 - side tuang method, less spillage, but unker still kena hand and hidu gas petrol until nearly kongkham.

How dafaq am I suppose to tuang this shit without literally spraying fuel all over my waifu petrol hole? For some god forsaken reason, it seems gasoline is far more errr watery than water niama

And before /ktard 9000 IQ reply... YES i got put cone/corong, unker went buy 2 summore get sibeh long one.. but now the problem is the botoi, even tuang so naisu, it keep seeping under the mouth down the botoi and onto my leg. Its not exactly a lot, but a few drops keep seeping essentially turning me and car into a molotov cocktail la.

Unker now considering siphon liao, but niama simple thing so hard meh? KNNCCB one day buta2 jadi BBQ pulak. Also inb4, NO the stupid botoi did not come with nozzle piece - chepshit from caina mah... so mebbe unker have to DIY one myself?

EDIT: For clarity... and drilzz for self induced sohainess

DIY Budget AhSeng™ Aero

Dezs — Sat, 30 Jul 2022 15:17:24 +0800

A bit intro, unker drive tin milo king 2012 manual with plenty of ah seng mods on anything that will improve drive and efficiency. Latest shenanigans was decidedly finally considering a proper aero kit since hatchbek has horrible drag and burukdua handling is about as good as sampan in a storm. So unker is here to get some feedback if can improve or do anything to further improve efficiency (and kuda my new AhSeng™ Aero product)

Bekground setori for the anti TLDR guys

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So unker embark on mission to improve aero under the car. Sorry la no wind tunnel, so standard ah seng sahaja, BUT if EVERYBODY is doing it it MUST do SOMETHING no??? So the projek was split into 3 parts
1. Tyre deflector front + bek (also to cover the rear axle, maibi one damn obvious is blocking airflow)
2. Front air dam (lip no need, unker not ricer)
3. Side skirt that wont RIP at every bump

So here we go. Drillz:

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Tyre Deflector

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Total Cost: About RM30, 24hrs labor and testing, a bit of insanity
Weight: Like zero lmao.. its so cheap plastic not even rubber..
Does it work? Well if everybody does it, it SHOULD...

Front Air Dam

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Total Cost: About RM20 (use same board as before, kan sudah beli haha), 1 month of brainpower for design and measurement, a bit more insanity.
Weight: Like almost zero also. unker can carry both pieces with 2 fingers
Does it work? Well if everybody does it, it SHOULD...
(Actually unker went to test this directly after mounting, and it did noticeable improvement immediately cause it covered the entire underbody and rear axles that were clearly causing drag)

Side Skirt Extension

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Total Cost: About RM40 (Had to get some extra tapes and stuff)
Weight: Well, how much does 1 mounting board, tape and 1/2 tube silicone weigh
Does it work? V1 not so sure, but V2 omai yasss. What unker really like about this one was the natural angle of the stock skirt/mount area - it slowly angled outwards to the back, allowing the skirt to sort of push the air aside more supposedly creating a lower pressure area under the rear, something tin milos really have problem with.

Conclusion
So all that sohainess, any gains? Well, individually they were negligible, but when all was combined and done, fuiyooooooo.... It looks like shiet, but heck who cares if its cheap.

All efficiency tests are done under similar route, similar drive patterns, similar traffic cause is part of my regular routine.
Before AhSeng™ Aero (car under same modded state):
70 kph - 24km/l ++ or 4.16 l/100 km
80 kph - 22.5km/l ++ or 4.44 l/100 km
90 kph - 21.5km/l ++ or 4.65 l/100 km

After AhSeng™ Aero:
70 kph - kambing soon (predicted 24.5km/l or 4.08 l/100km @2% savings)
80 kph - 23.5km/l ++ (1km/l gain) or 4.55 l/100km (0.18 l/100km saved @4% fuel savings)
90 kph - 23km/l ++ (1.5km/l gain) or 4.35 l/100km (0.30 l/100km saved @6% fuel savings)

Essentially now unker can cruise at 90kph at the cost of 80 kph previously. Since its all based on drag, it should bring up efficiency at higher speeds and have negligible effect below 80. The reason I don't have 70kph reading yet is because I can't get a good grip on the averages yet as the gain is a mere 0.5km/l, so more trips need to be done crawling along to see any gains here. Unker will test higher speeds after this to compare, but hard to maintain 100-110 kph cruise speeds thanks to retarded jams nowadays. Due to the nature of the vehicle and the lightweight wheels, unker knows this fella fares poorly fuel wise comparatively at high speeds, hence the gains at highway should be significant.

Another benefit presumed from all these stuff is supposedly better downforce, and it does seem to hold some truth. The sampan handling is now noticeably more composed on straights esp at speed, doesn't seem to contribute to corners, assuming air turbulence ruins airflow anyway at an angle.

The best part of the experience? The whole thing can be removed, replaced in parts anytime for cheap. Everytime u hear krokkk krokkk... everyone turn their head see this sohai, but THIS sohai no need gip shit replace the whole thing for a few RM and origami nia... lets see how bad is the maintenance exp. So far the AhSeng™ Aero kit has not required any replacements for the past 2 months hahaha. Btw, if u see a tin milo with this shit in KL, u have successfully doxxed unker liao KEK.

UPDATE: Converted l/100 km as a better measurement to improvement. The nett savings are based on the original cost at the same speed. % wise it does look realistic.

Padan Mukak Semua Datang KL, Tapi Mati2 Nak Balik

Dezs — Fri, 08 Jul 2022 20:44:21 +0800

UPDATE: 11PM - FUIYOOOOO

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1 time masuk KL charge entry min RM50. Bila keluar, charge exit fee = total days X RM5 per day. Kan senang? Datang negeri orang guna kereta kampung, bayar jer. Settle all problem terus.

Sila meninggal dalam kereta/jam/dsb balik kesana kesini. Harap2 nanti kereta rosak, tayar golek, radiator letup, petrol habis stok boleh merangkak lama2 atas highway.

HAHAHAHAHA SIAPA LIPOT? BODOnye.. it only further PROVES unker IS goddman RIGHT! ENJOY your SELF-MADE stupid jam home losers!

EDIT: 3 sohai lipot so far, so ayam damn right. Siapa butthurt tu dia... lawak la bobo ni. inb4 this has nothing to do with racing, sapa pendatang luar negeri tu main2 kereta tu, kau lah masalahnye jam teruk di KL.

Muka Paling Cheebye Skarang

Dezs — Sat, 02 Jul 2022 23:17:09 +0800

Sekali tengok mau tampar sudah... genius design by Tony nenepupu. Have to hats off to having the balls to disable customer service, number, email and still not kena saman habeh habeh.

Inb4 kawan try to korek credit account issue masuk infinity loop. Nak submit ticket, masuk infinity loop lagi. Topkek. Ada satu lagi kena scam dengar all credit masuk voucher 1 kali jer boleh pakai lmao...

Unker innocent.. got RM300 nia, 1 flight buy habis liao.. so no much shit given. But hearing the rage is kinda legendary. (But if u gip unker design, unker also do the same lel)

Anybody Use Ceratec Before?

Dezs — Tue, 28 Jun 2022 23:28:51 +0800

SOS: https://products.liqui-moly.com/cera-tec-2.html

EDIt: Not for use in Automatics/Wet Clutches or even manual tranny with differential just in case lel

Unker baru testing masuk dadah for my gearbox, and fuiyoooooooooo... sibeh smooth sial... even my engine braking also mcm no kick dy, need pijak brake more.

Inb4 unker engine oil already got dadah added, so dun dare mix and match until the next oil change. But yes, despite using fully syn oil (cheap one la, castrol if not rong), the additive did make it noticeably smoother. Doubt it has that much effect on economy since the biggest improvement was from semi-syn to fully-syn, but smooth engine and now clutch/tranny as well unker so shiok liao. Addicted dy... Gonna test if minyak muroh or not later lel

Inb4 can end up become too smooth until the oil just leak out of the lobang siham or not? So far looks okei la.., but for the first time my clutch pedal and batang never felt so nice to touch.. soft soft.. silky smooth lel...

Manufacturer did say Ceratec kenot put with Molygen Oil (so prob will pass this oil change until next batch before masuk engine kot). Anybody got komen on long term or if the dadah got side effect?

UPDATE: minyak murahan also has improved lel - drive mcm unker umur 90 tahun now can hit 28km/l hypermiling (prior was 27). In gear flat open road static low rpm was around 26.5 at 70kph vs 26 but too close to be conclusive. Havent tested in normal/mixed drive, but well find out eventually. Certainly not worth the RM80 additive, but since gearbox is once 40k km, ok la.. and unker like smooth smooth batang/clutch hahahaha..

Cheap Unker Preventive Maintenance List

Dezs — Sat, 18 Jun 2022 11:33:22 +0800

Unker past 2 yrs baru refresh engine, mounts, absorber, clutch, iridiums... now obsession starting to roll around the old stuff.. inb4 milotin king 2012 MT

Already due:
- Steering rack - singature unker car klok klok sound come out liao
- Utility belt - starting to screech on very cold days
- Battery - 4yrs+, but more concern on the alternator

Everyday inspect like haram jadah cause still the very first piece ori from burukdua:
- Driveshaft? Wheel bearings? - doesn't break one right? LEl but bearings would wear no?
- Fuel pump - now at 170k km @10yrs, how much longer before this thing will die? It will die no? How about the tank itself? Pipes/lines? How long can tahan?
- O2, MAP sensors - Entah, enjine still running fine, minyak still cheap2, but cause of the recent mods, dunno if might be leaving some cheapness on the table since those came in around 130-140k km
- Fuel rail/injectors? - Menda ni tak rosak kan? Or is it worth a refresh? Been putting injector cleaners every 10k service
- Engine internal refresh? - Recently gave it an engine flush, been on full syn for most of its life. Nothing came out, so heppi, but prob wasted money (or unker kena scam). But the other parts/piston rings? No need to refresh until the thing explodes?
- Brake discs/calipers? - Still rusting like hell, but still looks thick enough lel
- Fuse box? - 10 yr old fuse sure still working on rated value?
- Airbag? - so never trigger, never test... ECU never say anything.. SC never say anything.. got way to tell this thing wont just fart and die or become hand grenade?
- Radiator - can see its got plenty of dust, but my car so far no overheat, rubber hoses also look old, but at 10 years, still feel solid, but a bit dry - and i don't trust any of them anymore.
- Coolant pump - entah masih ok ke tidok... so far no cooling issue
- ECU? My longest life PC deaded at 10yrs with zombie parts... So... err... uhhh.. should'nt it be due for death/cancer by these 200k kms?
- Gearbox? Pakai sampai kong baru pikir?

Yeah.. random things unker is obsessed so can gloat over my milotin never ever breakdown for the next decade. Pro racer/ricer opinion akan diterima dgn hati terbuka...

EDIT: Just random thing unker noticed after the flush+new oil, it seems the engine is a bit louder now for some strange reason, no mechanical change in feel or power, or fuel consumption. Outside bontot the loudness is the same. Its not coming from the exhaust system cause its from the lower front, audible inside, but not outside, prob masked ady. Mebbe lepas cuci lobang siham too longgar dy then got more noisu?

Tarian Cultural

Dezs — Mon, 30 May 2022 08:40:13 +0800

[YOUTUBE]YZhKz2wQRXM[/YOUTUBE]
Unker kena suggest by Jewtube... so unker go in with u-know-what kind of mindset la.. But den lepas tengok2 OK wor.... esp for cultural dance is usually very difficult to fully synchronise their moves cause of the pusing2 sini sana unlike kpoptard shit.

Inb4 unker kaki pedo/tuai.. see all the budak so heppi..

OWAI

Downsized Turbo vs NA

Dezs — Mon, 16 May 2022 19:16:14 +0800

Ok, so long setori short, unker am thinking of getting a bigger displacement car for my highway travels, but on the motivation to get more speed for less rpm (yas.. being cheap is unker's obsession). Lets get the basic straight first, the obvious benefit of small turbo is crystal clear esp in low RPM/power and idle situations, but unker have always been trying to get a good comparison of how efficient a NA can kick out HP vs the equivalent in a boosted engine. Purely from a fuel consumption perspective, no other costs/upkeep being considered here.

Logic says that there is no way spooling the turbo comes free, so it takes out airflow/resistance pressure at least to spool that thing, force it thru the intercooler and its own frictional losses made up by forcing more air into the hamster wheel. Surely got energy loss unless transfers are lossless and perfectly efficient (dunno if that law can apply here kek). That is in a power demand situation of course. But if we are looking at lowest rpm efficiency, the thing would prob be under boost threshold or very low (but a fren said low boost is moar efficient?), but surely that boost aint free either. Going for this guy, you have less moving parts and mass overall with smaller displacement.

Meanwhile the N/A will clearly benefit from better natural airflow/VE, but offset by more internal moving mass. This is what unker assume would be competing against the other in race to cheapness.

The closest match unker can find is VW Polo 1.0 TSI DSG at 110HP vs unker's very familiar 1.5 milotin manual king at 103HP (its got some puffed up stats, so it should be going at least 110+ with exhaust+engine tune). Some other 1.5Ls also produce 110 naturally, so it should be a very good comparison.

Based on data from here: https://www.auto-data.net/en/volkswagen-pol...110hp-dsg-41746
Fuel consumption at Low speed (WLTP) 7.3 l/100 km 13.7 km/l
Fuel consumption at Medium speed (WLTP) 5.5 l/100 km 18.18 km/l
Fuel consumption at high speed (WLTP) 4.8 l/100 km 20.83 km/l
Fuel consumption at very high speed (WLTP) 5.6 l/100 km 17.86 km/l
Bolded: Close/direct matches - Assuming high speed should be low rpm cruise (80-90kph), since very high suffers losses, medium would be closest match to unkers mixed drive

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Unker's milotin consumption vs speed in 5th gear:
70kph - 24km/l
80kph - 22.5km/l
90kph - 21.5km/l
100kph - 20km/l
110kph - 18.5km/l
120kph - not updated, too little data here, surely below 18km/l
Unker's mixed consumption: 18.5km/l (60% highway 40% city)

Considerations:
- Manual trans, N gear cheat option VS DSG (said to be as good as manual efficiency, so prob can be negated)
- Polo has way better drag profile vs milotin, BUT polo is 200kg heavier
- Using the N cheatcode netts unker +1/2 km/l quite easily to beat the 1.0, but lets take that out of the equation since in gear should be the measure.

Conclusion:
- At lower high gear speeds (<2500RPM), the milotin clearly seems to be able to trump the 1.0 tebu.
- At its WLTP (high-90kph roughly), manual 1.5 milotin NA (worse drag, less kerb weight) slightly trumps the 1.0 tebu (better drag, worse kerb weight)
- At highway 120kph, uncertain but NA predicted to be worse since old maibi king is really fat and tall. Then again 1.0 is carrying extra 200kg deadweight.

Fair to conclude that in the form of most efficient energy extraction, excluding waste (idle/jam), the path of least resistance is still the traditional conclusion? And fair to conclude that rather than forcing a little hamster to spin the wheel hard, its better to just getting a bigger hamster instead? I'm assuming that at high boost, turbos would be highly inefficient by nature since fuel is wasted to keep combustion cool (well NAs do it too, but nowhere close to boosted levels)

Oren Pandai buat CGI/VFX

Dezs — Tue, 19 Apr 2022 12:58:44 +0800

SOS

[YOUTUBE]4mQYUvi_pDs[/YOUTUBE]

Mahciam yass... Inb4 for a one-two or three man show @26 he's in his prime, but he needs to get daffak out of the kampung and get opportunity to mature at the professional level before jadi ikan kering and start losing brain cells.. but the question nao is... helang o not? u know i know jerr...

Wish him luck, pretty sure he can still come out on top in any jaguh kampung category even if all fails. Dude seems resourceful enough to figure it out on his own... probably.

EDIT Uitm yaawww... but his 2016 works were cringe as fukk (so no uitm still trash level for any cv unker review kek). Even now still a lot of cringe elements, but there is sign of hope, and some shorts are actually somewhat decent.

EDIT2: LOL PUJI OREN ALSO WAN LIPOT.. BODO SIAL BABI KNNCCB

Insulating Low Pressure AC Pipe

Dezs — Sat, 26 Mar 2022 20:13:10 +0800

Unker saw this random thing going around on insulating the low pressure pipe (usually very cold) on my tin milo A/C, then went to do some ah beng jalanan research. Logic seems somewhat sound, cooler inputs > compressor works same or less > cooler output (at least to some degree, even if insignificant).

So considering AC pipe insulation is dirt cheap unker go order 10m (coz min for free shipping, and assuming 1 round fakkap will cost unker 3-4 meter with plenty to spare), go bukak enjin bay and off we go, thinking just cut a line and wrap it over with cun cun measurement. Welp, hell broke loose since the fitting not cun cun, and needed to keep moisture out, so it was about 2hrs worth of cheebyes, cursing and wondering why DAFUQ burukdua put so many stupid little curves that didn't matter (yeap, milotin engine bay damn free space yooo... but still want to turn turn sometimes 15 degree also mau niama). After fitting, then came more CBs sealing it with rubber tape, but eventually with a truckload of CBs managed to cover like 95% of the exposed pipe esp the part that came ridiculously near the exhaust header and high pressure line, both panas mcm sial.

A few more CBs to ensure no exposed areas that might accumulate condensation, and off unker went to test. TBH for unker tin milo lifespan, never used more than 50% powahh on the temp console cause mostly just solo or 2 and unker have 3 outlets blowing into my face (close passenger ac outlet, and TAADA, MOAR AC to the remaining 3 all aim for unker fat ass ). 50% coldness was for really hot days, and normally unker use 20% jer. At night it goes down to 10% (just to avoid a zero) and if the day is cool or raining at night, unker actually turn it off about 50% of the time to avoid getting too cold.

Wait a few days to get a proper test on a hot day, the outcome:
1. Unker std 20% powa felt as cool as 50% powa lel
2. 0% (just ac on min temp) was enough to replicate the 10% night a/c setting and moar.
*phew* at least didnt have to rage pull and CB my way to get rid of all that insulation again.

Compressor recharge/operation times at similar temp settings also noticeably reduced - moar delay between compressor activations (about 2-3 seconds longer at my default temps). Roughly unker felt the improvement in the compressor efficiency was about +1/3 maybe using ah beng sensor.
Clarification: This "mod" reduces heat seeping into the line, so there will be no difference when the a/c starts up in a cold engine bay or on a hot day when air is warm taking longer to get the cooling going. It makes a huge difference once the engine bay is heat soaked i.e. driving for a while where noticeable improvements kick in.

Not like it mattered much to begin with, but when unker realised there was like 3m+ of exposed low pressure line literally going one big round the engine and exhaust headers, there had to be at least some benefit to be gained. So yeah.. Total cost: RM15 shopee, free shipping, 2hrs of CBs (add maybe 2 more hrs of intelligence gathering and spying around the engine bay) and restraint to avoid accidentally whacking or destroying another cable/pipe in the engine bay. Benefit: Accumulating water in insulation (well not like the pipe seems to care), moar AC and probably after 6 months a free liter of RON95. and yass unker read about slugging the compressor, but ayam guess were in super hot climate, +unker never use max powa also so hrmmm shd be safe gua.

So persoalannye... does the logic really work? And why manufacturer no do out of the box? Save bajet/time again?

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EDIT... Tambah drillz

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Puting can keras one side only?

Dezs — Mon, 07 Mar 2022 17:31:42 +0800

Unker baru perasan todei, ada masa ~~tetek~~ puting keras sebelah jer.. Satu belah lagi lembut2..

Kadang2 kiri jer keras... kadang2 kanan jer...

Mcm ini pun boleh? Or ini petanda unker ghey?

UPDATE: Is puting... not tetek aiyoo...

KNNCCB Useless "Multi Purpose Oil"

Dezs — Sat, 05 Mar 2022 14:46:21 +0800

Unker try everything to oil my old kipas.. but after a few months con lan firm minyak kering then black black and jam again... Everytime cuci with WD40 to clean then add lubricant.

1st round - Unker try chain lube for motosikal sbb itu jer ada, last 1 month, jem again.

2nd round - Unker then try lithium grease (aka synthettetiuc), jalan 1 month, jem again

3rd round - Unker found SINGER "All Purpose Oil" supposedly for such stuff... 2 weeks... KNNCCBB jam AGAIN

4th round - Unker dulan liao, use amoi's 0W20 engine oil for Axia.. surprise surprise... last 3 month... jem again.. Mebbe too thin/little/kering

5th round - Unker SIBEH dulan liao.. Fakking use my tin milo 5w30 Castrol Magnatec Start Stop Fully Syntethetic berand new from botol kasi banjir... Engineered to tahan the roughness of start stop engine in traffic NIAMA u tiny stupid eletric motor dun say ur life harder than tin milo engine okei...

So far sibeh smooth.. motor like berand new angin sibeh kuat.. way way better than stupid singer all purpose useless oil...

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Jgn suruh unker beli kipas baru. Unker cheap and damn proud of it. This kipas sudah 7-8 yrs.. unker intend to spin it to my grave kot...

What do manufacturer use that last 2-3 yrs before it kongkek and jam? Ktard banyak pro inngineer tolong kasi tau...

Retarded KKT Tiny/Compact32 Question

Dezs — Sun, 13 Feb 2022 18:25:06 +0800

So ah... unker CNY rage spend got mai enjine piggybacked and unker hid the module somewhere under the dashboard but unker sked tertekan the white mode button while squeezing it around. Unker dgn soalan bodoh lagi:

1. So pertanyaan khas utk mrk yg ada pakai KKT ni, usually got 2 maps according to the workshop, but unker only got 1 cause tamau backfire preng prong preng prong, what unker have seen from checking online vids is the default mode appears to be steady state flashing oren, and backfire is double flash?

So what are the behavior if accidentally tertekan white button if only got 1 map inside? Will it ignore? As unker know the wiring guy copied the stock/default specs into both maps before the tuner, hence they should both have started at 0 interception kot... so if unker tertekan also is prob just risking swapping to stock setting kot? Baru hari ni terkena, workshop tak buka weekend lel.

2. Anyway, the dyno pic is stuck in unker other phone, when got time to upload it baru share la... but unker ada risau ckit they increase AFR at the upper range goes up 15+ at 4500rpm, before falling back to 12.5 again near redline. Sked leh if engine pong klu stay too long at that 4500? Selamat ke mcm ni? Generally the only time unker ever rev beyond 3500 rpm is to smoke other tin milos at traffic light GT. The nett gain was a good 3-4HP across the entire powerband on a heartbreaker Dyno Dynamics, so unker heppi la.

3. Does wheel dyno / light wheels skew the dyno graph? Unker see the low end HP/torque is way higher and flat compared to the known torque curve of the engine. After tune curve is raised nearly entirely, it follow the engine character - peak torque was recorded from 2-4k rpm sumwhere, but unker know this is impossible for unker engine since its well a NA. What made it even weirder was constant falloff despite engine stock design peaking at 4500 rpm (136Nm --loss on wheels ++light wheels) - it falls smoothly from 4000 to redline. Theres a big torque jump stock and tuned at 1900 rpm (dyno recorded this as peak due to the high hp against very low rpm), tuner said likely is light wheel effect, but he said it should be accurate representation of the on-the-road as well. Prob free mini turbo for N/A with light wheels? LEL

UPDATE: got the HP/AFR one up. The torque curvfe pic haram jadah thx to lousy camera, kena blur habis niama. I had to rebuilkd it by reversing the HP reading, but its pretty similar la. 4th gear pull.

The ori (true stock) engine curve added adjusted for drivetrain loss 15% in yellow. The predicted falloff is far greater on the dyno than on the engine which unekr kinda felt using the lightweight wheels at speed. but the falloff is mcm so kesian unker formula salah ke lol..

Driving Tin Milo Loaded Actually Feel Better

Dezs — Fri, 11 Feb 2022 08:37:22 +0800

Unker murahan balik lagi dgn cerita bodo... Unker mostly drive milotin alone and with light load, even carrying shiet (IT stuff not that heavy la), and always complain bontot sakit mcm babi...

Then the other day, unker bawa 3 sohai sama2 weight balanced on 4 corners - suddenly the suspension sibeh supple and smooth wehh... feel like a car on the road not tin milo liao hiak3. Even the infamous bump that would make unker tayar jump over no matter how selow also jadi smooth liao FUIYO...

Mebbe deswai oren like to load milotin penuh penuh ah?

Unker logik no grasp, but mebbe slightly heavier car is nicer car? kek... Tapi unker nak rempit naik bukit, tabuli machiam tu...

Sekian cerita murahan unker, k/tard sila cuba dan share klu angkat babi dalam tin milo tu lebih sedap ke pandu?

"High-rise" Dwellers kena Evict

Dezs — Sat, 29 Jan 2022 19:32:19 +0800

SOS

QUOTE

Muhyiddin stopped by and chatted with the elderly and physically challenged residents, among others, at the government flats, better known as Rumah Pangsa Tanjung Aru, and later handed over monetary aid to them.
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But two months later, much to the residents’ shock, the Sabah Housing and Town Development Board (LPPB), the state agency responsible for affordable housing, served an eviction notice to the 315 families, comprising more than 1,000 residents, living in the 11 blocks there
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“So you can imagine how we felt about Rumah Pangsa Tanjung Aru being in the news after Muhyiddin’s visit to being served an eviction notice just two months later,” Dewi Awang, one of the residents, told FMT.

More like ~~highrise~~ B40 sohais. So happy right ... vote shit in then so heppi get seguni beras ... then now topkek sekali.

Next erection can vote again for moar beras. Cukuur at least dapat undi dapat seguni beras. Cukuuur ada rumah sewa RM170 lagi topkek.

EDIT: Lokasi machiam nak kena jual tanah ni kot....

Can Fuel Efficiency Improve AFR>=14.7?

Dezs — Tue, 25 Jan 2022 15:36:50 +0800

Unker in pursuit of the cheapest ride datang lagi dgn soalan bodoh which prob know the answer to already kek.. But have to verify properly la:

Theory says 14.7:1 is the air fuel ratio where all fuel combusts, hence maximum efficiency all power released from fuel. BUT, is it possible to obtain any efficiency improvements beyond this ratio? Chemistry would say its impossible to get more than stoichio unless at stoichio the burn might not be complete due to irregularity in the cylinder mix, so kasi a bit more air to ensure everything burns?

As unker understand richer ratios for power is mainly to support temperature and max chance of full air/O2 combustion. Does this mean that inside silinder, even at stoichiomethelelety, not all of it mixes and combusts well (i.e. did not mix finish nicely), and there is some efficiency to be gained going leaner than this?

Unker in the process of asking tuner for efficiency at low rpm, power at high (naturally) and playing with using some haram jadah OBDII tuning device that seems to be doing some good in acceleration phases i.e. Eco mode, can feel engine is running a little harsher but burning less fuel. However at cruise (hence even stock would prob maintain a lean ratio) there is little or no improvement. The nett result is not much efficiency increase. Does this match the theory that stock prob already runs as lean as possible to max efficiency at cruise/low loads and there is simply nothing left to squeeze out of it?

Another opposing theory is accelerating harder (i.e. tune kuat sikit) then getting to cruise as quickly as possible while consuming more on pickup but on higher engine load (supposedly better efficiency than low load) to achieve the same result?

Total Cost of Legendary King

Dezs — Sun, 23 Jan 2022 00:37:47 +0800

Unker just finished OCDfag annual lipot for 2021 and realise unker tin milo is already 9 yrs old going into 10. Tin milo edisi 2 1.5 MT 2012 a.k.a.

For educational purposes (and banggala for being ultimate cheapass) - the nett cost of maintaining the legendary king and prob one of the cheapest make in the tin milo market below 90k. Regular svc on time, fully syn oil, best things for my tin milo for wear and tear items. Well here goes:

Car Base Cost: RM51,255.50 + RM5,250.00 = RM56,505.50

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Insurance Total: RM5,829.50 excl OTR 1st yr. Being a good boi no claim2 saves a hell lot.

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Basic Maintenance/Parts: RM8,520.50 --- RM950.00/yr

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Petrol Cost: RM21,562.50 --- RM2,400/yr --- RM200/mth

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Shiok Sendiri Shiet: RM6,300.00 "fun stuff one off"

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Grand Total (9 yrs): RM98,702.50 > RM99,000 rounded --- RM11,000/yr --- RM920/mth but about 75% of lifetime spend front-loaded in the first 5 years (downpayment, loans, bigger insurance low NCD etc)
Base Total (No ah beng rubbish, just premium stuff): RM92,700.00 --- RM10,300/yr --- RM860/mth
**inb4 toll tak kira yee... pandai2 lah pakai jalan free**

When unker was paying off loan, it was coming to around RM1,200 a month avg with insurance with a 15k downpayment. Even tin milo aint as cheap as it sounds. Imagine cars with extra 50% upfront cost @75k i.e. Honda/Toyota lalabengs price. After the upfront cost, for MT it is actually that cheap and u get to smoke every other tin milo in the under90 class topkek.

EDIT: Unker forgot to separate the Road Tax RM99 per year (semua guna MYEG RM9 tax+delivery, malas mau kesana kesini renew), its lumped into the maintenance nett cost.

Also to make things a little bit more relevant when repayment is complete, just take the maintenance, petrol and insurance figures where relevant.... actual upkeep and consumption (assuming parts replacement/wear rate remains constant) is closer to RM4,000/yr --- RM333/mth when you "get tired" of your car. Unker skipped upgrading 3 times now when calculating the consequence of going through another frontloaded cost at 3X the price (well, mau bergaya ma...). Can afford, but fakkit la.. its RM300/mth to vroom vroom ah beng VS RM3,000/mth to bergaya and vroom vroom also not much faster than ah beng with stick (like iterally KEK).

Wait Tesla steady bombibi come, then unker rage spend then kot..