Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by BroJason

Need For Speed Most Wanted [iOS]

Thu, 01 Jan 1970 07:30:00 +0800

[WTS] Shell Lego Ferarri Cars

BroJason — Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:23:13 +0800

Item(s): Shell Lego Ferarri Cars

Package includes: Car B: Ferrari 458 Italia + Car C: Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta

Price: RM40.00

Warranty: None

Dealing method: COD preferred, Postage possible, but buyer pays for shipping cost

Location of seller: KL, Selayang, Kepong, PJ, Sri Hartamas

Contact method/details: PM for fast deal, FCFS and while stock last!

Age of item: new

Item(s) conditions: unopened bags, unassembled

Picture:
Ferrari 458 Italia

Ferrari 250 GT Berlinetta

***Pictures courtesy of paultan website***

Reason for sale: extra sets and would like to help others who is collecting the whole set

Kenari Aero - Problem after changing oil seals...

BroJason — Mon, 24 Oct 2011 15:58:04 +0800

Hi there gurus,

my ride is the humble Kenari Aero (2005) with stock engine. installed Hot bits 4-1 extractor and full exhaust piping set last time plus a K&N in-filter replacement. the rest is pretty much as stock as it can be.

i have just recently changed two oil seals because my engine oil is leaking and it is noticeable that my whole engine and engine bay has oil stains.

the mechanic troubleshooted and identified two areas that is leaking:
1) Valve cover oil seal
2) Timing belt / cover oil seal (can't remember correctly how it is called)

he said my flywheel oil seal is ok since there is no noticeable oil stands at the middle part of the engine (below the flywheel)

so now 1 week after the change, i am noticing a few things:
1) engine idling is slightly lower than usual
2) during normal driving, doesn't matter which gear i am using, when the engine rev reaches the 3K mark, there is a low level 'metal grinding sound' coming from the engine area kinda scary... could this be clutch-related?
3) during ignition (cranking of the engine), some times my car keeps cranking and does not ignite. even pressing the acceration pedal to pump some oil would make not much of a difference. need to have a few long cranks and then only the engine ignites successfully. sounds quite damaging to me actually but this only happens occasionally. when it works, it works fine with just a single crank. so it is intermittent.
4) i think this is related to point 3). just yesterday, after filling up a full tank of petrol, when i wanted to start the engine, the overly long cranking ordeal came into the picture again... but one additional thing happened! a loud "pop" came out from my rear exhaust towards the end of the cranking routine! scary!

now with all the symptoms above, any guru care to pin-point some problem areas?

the workshop that i went to change the oil seals are not open today. will probably drop by their place tomorrow to check things out. but at the same time, am afraid that i get conned

so any advice is greatly appreciated. thanks!

High-Security Cylinder Locks

BroJason — Wed, 21 Sep 2011 20:41:46 +0800

Hi peeps,

am currently considering to get my existing cylinder lock of my security door changed.

considering Mul-T-Lock (owned by Assa Abloy as well) to do the job.

surveyed a few shops which carry this lock in KL. obviously, the price is on the high side.

so am asking for opinions and reviews for anyone who has experience with this type of lock - they are said to be bump-proof as well as lockpick-proof.

i watched a few lock bumping youtube videos and am really surprised as to how easy it is to open virtually all locks in the market now within seconds

just an intro for those who does not know what Mul-T-Lock is all about:

- A spring-loaded pin placed inside the cylinder plug, which produces a “virtual combination” when the key with the floating pin is inserted.

- Mul-T-Lock’s unique telescopic pin tumbler mechanism, with internal and external pins – requiring the simultaneous alignment of both internal and external shear lines for the plug to rotate.

- A specially designed plug, which forms a spherical, 3-dimensional shear line with the top and bottom pins, within the cylinder body.

- Key limitation is ensured by the patented key and key blank, supplied together with a coded Mul-T-Lock key card in every Interactive package. Additional keys may be cut by authorized Mul-T-Lock dealers, upon presentation of the key card – in accordance with Mul-T-Lock’s official key cutting procedures.

- Steel inserts with high drill resistance

-High pick and bumping resistance

- Optional side and back pins, specially suited for master key systems.

please kindly share your experience with me in order to help justify my investment in obtaining this lock. still looking for the best price at the moment - any leads to that would be appreciated as well. thanks.

[addedon]September 21, 2011, 8:48 pm[/addedon]another side note to Mul-T-Lock system.

basically you get 3 set of keys - Green x 3, Yellow x 1 and Red x 1.

when you somehow lost your Green keys, or perhaps those keys have been somewhat 'compromised', you can literally change your keys to the next set of key (Yellow).

when you use the Yellow key, this will invalidate the earlier set of keys (Green) for good.

and just in case if you lost the Yellow key, you still have the last key (Red) to save the day.

so basically, the idea is as such that you can also change your keys without changing your lock after a certain period of time for safety reasons.

Duplication of keys is available at any authorized locksmith outlets (currently only 10 in Malaysia) with a charge (not cheap but also not overly expensive - enough to deter those who want a quick solution to access your door), as they use a very specific machine with high-precision standard to reproduce the key. to top it all off, you need to present either your Mul-T-Lock card or identification card to be recorded for security reasons in order to reproduce those keys.

Wireman with PW1 qualification needed

BroJason — Thu, 21 Jul 2011 23:51:54 +0800

Dear fellow lowyat.netizens,

am looking for any trust-worthy wireman with PW1 qualification.

i live in a condo and my building management allows only certified wireman to work with my unit, which is nevertheless a pain in the *toot* but rules are rules and i do not want to break them.

any recommendations? thanks in advance.

Need help on email

BroJason — Fri, 30 May 2008 10:22:55 +0800

hi admin,

i need help to change my email to brotherjason@gmail.com

the current email is not valid, therefore the validation is not done.

Regards,

Jason

[addedon]June 1, 2008, 4:52 pm[/addedon]hello? anyone around? I sent a mail to webmaster@lowyat.net and i get system error for undelivered mail. is the mail address valid? am getting a bit impatient here since i have started a thread and none of the moderators are responding...

P/S: i used my company mail and not gmail or hotmail to send.

need help here...

[addedon]June 8, 2008, 1:49 am[/addedon]excuse me... anyone alive here in helpdesk? really need help... gosh... what do i need to do to get your attention? :S

Samsung 226BW LCD greatness

BroJason — Sun, 12 Aug 2007 18:34:15 +0800

hi guys,

have just checked-out this 22" LCD at the stall with Ming zhai's assistance. looks pretty good. but i still have an unanswered question before i go for it. hope you guys in C-Zone can help consumers like me on this.

i don't know if any of you guys have heard or read anything on Samsungs reason scam of using not all panels that is produced by themselves. unfortunately, this happened to 226BW models all around the world.

Apprarently, the panels produced by Samsung (codenamed: S model) gives the best quality that lives up to Samsungs reputation. the rest namely the A and C panels have some issues.

currently, what i can see is that Samsung has made it even harder to identify the true nature of the panel without unscrewing stuffs. I know i might sound a little bit ridiculous, but being a consumer, i just feel like we need to know before buying.

here's a link to informations on how to identify the panels. for the current stocks that is around our market, i believe the unscrewing part of the back panel is needed. and i hope that does not void the warranty. if it does, then forget what i said here.

http://www.bcchardware.com/index.php?optio...=4259&Itemid=40

hoping for some light from c-zone techs on this. thanks in advanced.

Windscreen insurance

BroJason — Wed, 07 Mar 2007 14:26:30 +0800

hi guys, want to ask you opinion on windscreen insurance. i drive a Kenari. i asked my insurance company, they say normally Kenari people insure windscreen policy for amount rm 500 only.

i think that is too little. plus if can i want to factor in some cost for tinting also . so what do you guys think? i plan to insure amount rm 1000.

oh and another thing, anyone has comments on Jerneh insurance? good reputation or not when comes to claims?

thanks in advance everyone.

Speaker refoaming

BroJason — Sat, 11 Nov 2006 12:03:29 +0800

Hi there fellow lowyat gurus....

i have a problem with my subwoofer foam. it has deteriorated/disintegrated beyond repair. it needs a foam replacement. in US, they sell lots of refoaming kits. but in Malaysia, is there anywhere that i can go to? please advice. cheers.

Define Burst/Blown/Faulty subwoofer

BroJason — Sun, 29 Oct 2006 14:06:04 +0800

Hi Guys, need your help in making my facts straight. how do you define a burst/ or faulty subwoofer? i think i just had that with my computer subwoofer. it is not totally out of action. it can still produce sound. but it is "bliak, bliak, bliak" that kind... so is this considered burst or blown? what causes this by the way? i mean what part is faulty? the cone? i plan to send it to the shop and have them fix it. need to change the whole subwoofer speaker to fix this? thanx in advanced.

Good installation services

BroJason — Mon, 16 Oct 2006 17:38:19 +0800

hi fellow ICE enthusiasts. i need a favor from you guys. i am trying to find someone to install my newly bought component speaker set. but i am quite picky with worksmanship and therefore would appreciate it if you guys can point me to the ones that gets the job done at a reasonable price.

apart from installation, i would also like to use better speaker wires as well as caps for the tweeter. hence, i would must prefer someone that knows his stuffs and can do a good job . initally i had howiechoo as my first preference, but since he is on leave now, and will only be back possibly next month, i am wondering if there is any other that i can turn to?

thanks guys for your help