Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by MetalZone

[WTS] DJI Phantom 4 with a total of 3 batteries

MetalZone — Thu, 02 Mar 2017 00:47:37 +0800

Item(s): DJI Phantom 4

Package includes:
Phantom 4 drone
Remote controller
2 sets of propellers
Threaded variable ND filter
Micro USB cable and USB connector for the drone
16GB MicroSD UHS Class 3
Gimbal cover
Original charger
Original case and box

Price: RM4100

Warranty: Just over

Dealing method: COD or Postage

Location: Taman Desa, KL or Ipoh on some weekends

Contact method/details: OI2-22I32I4
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Item(s) conditions: Good condition. Minor crack on one of the batteries. Everything working perfectly. Never crashed before. Always hand catched.

Picture:
[attachmentid=8542830]
[attachmentid=8542833]
[attachmentid=8542839]

Reason for sale: Lack of time to fly.

[WTS] Mi Band. RM59

MetalZone — Fri, 06 Feb 2015 01:50:15 +0800

Item(s): Mi Band

Package includes: Brand new in sealed box

Price: RM59

Warranty: Warranty by deal extreme.

Dealing method: COD, Courier/Poslaju (RM6 Peninsula Malaysia)

Location: Kulai/Senai, Johor during weekdays or Taman Desa, KL during weekends only.

Contact method/details: PM or OI2 22I32I4
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Item(s) conditions: Brand new in sealed box

Picture: None.

Reason for sale: Bought extra through deal extreme.

[WTS] Nikon D80 body. RM350

MetalZone — Sun, 14 Sep 2014 15:47:37 +0800

Item(s): Nikon D80 body

Package includes: Two original Nikon EN-EL3e batteries (ignore the 3rd one, it's a third party battery that appears to be dead), Original box, Battery charger and cable, AV cable, All manuals and CD, original strap (hardly used), and a cable shutter release/intervalometer.

Price: RM350 FIRM. Prefer to let go all.
But if one wants to take one Nikon EN-EL3e battery, it will be RM80. Whereas the rest will go for RM300. Must have buyer for both first.

Warranty: None but this is a Nikon Malaysia set if you ever need to send it in.

Dealing method: Postage or COD (location see below)

COD Location: Senai/Kulai, Johor or KL (Taman Desa/Mid Valley/Jln Klang Lama) during some weekends.

Contact method/details: PM me or contact me at 0I2-22I32I4
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Item(s) conditions: Well used, well travelled, and it shows significant wear (see pics). I always keep it well and store it in a dry box when I'm not travelling, and use silica gel when I am. Shutter count is about 39,800. Still works perfectly.

Pictures:

The rubber where your thumb grips is somewhat peeling. Screen protector on LCD.

The rubber covers have expanded a little and doesn't fit as perfectly anymore.

Cable shutter release/intervalometer.

If you want some sample pictures see my Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidkwc/

Reason for sale: Upgraded

Problems loading some sites with Mac's

MetalZone — Thu, 16 Jul 2009 03:34:22 +0800

Has anyone been experiencing connection problems or problems loading some websites on your Mac?

As for myself, I had trouble loading Facebook and connecting MSN Messenger via my home network on my 13" MBP. However they all work fine on all the PC's at home.
I could only access the above using my Celcom 3G. Clearing the dns cache or browser cache did not work.

A little googling found me the solution:
http://en.kioskea.net/forum/affich-27197-b...pages-in-mac-os

Changing the MTU of the Airport to 1400 worked miraculously. I can now access Facebook and MSN Messenger without any issues.
See here for how to change the MTU: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2532

Hope this helps some others here who are struggling with this issue.

Another side tip, how to clear the DNS cache:
Open up terminal (Applications>Utilities)
For Leopard (10.5.x) type: dscacheutil -flushcache
For Tiger (10.4.x) type: lookupd -flushcache

-1 New Message(s)

MetalZone — Sat, 31 Jan 2009 17:18:12 +0800

Curious, now my messages says: -1 New Message(s)
Bug or database glitch?

David's Newbie Gallery

MetalZone — Fri, 11 Jul 2008 01:00:36 +0800

Hi guys, first time posting my shots here.
Got my D80 more than a month ago.
C&C welcome but have mercy yah... hehe.

Super GT 2008 - 21st June - Qualifying Day

Panning Shots:

1. GT500 Epson NSX

2. GT500 Calsonic Impul GT-R

3. GT500 YellowHat YMS Tomica GT-R

4. GT300 ORC Amemiya RX-7

5. GT300 JimCenter Advan Ferrari F430

6. GT500 Calsonic Impul GT-R

A few more:
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.

Project: MACH X

MetalZone — Sun, 17 Jun 2007 00:30:40 +0800

Project: MACH X

Worklog subforum up... woot. Opening ceremony.

This project started life with a sleek SilverStone TJ03 case that I reviewed.

My concept idea for it was to mod a casing following the simple and classy look and feel of the TJ03. Sleek and clean, inside and outside. This proved to be tough to design amidst the sea of more complicated and tribal mods without looking too plain. I like the look of silver aluminium therefore I will be maintaining this in this mod (my previous mod was chrome plated).

The mod started way back in June 2005. Lots of delays due to my heavy workload on studies and stuff. But nevertheless the project continued to progress, albeit very slowly.

Click on the pics for larger pictures

________________________________________________________________________

[June 22, 2005]

Conversion from ATX to BTX

Now you see it as ATX, soon you wont. Before:

Everything stripped off 1st:

Drilling out the rivets:

After removing the relevent parts:

Riveting the railings in their new position:

Fortunately the relevant holes are already made in the case which made the job a lot simpler, thanks to SilverStone. But I still needed to make another bracket for the upper railing to mount to because now its in the other side of the PSU cage.

And now you see it, its in BTX except that i've decided not to relocate the PSU to the bottom because then i would have to refabricate both the PSU cage and the rear panel. The upper railing hasn't been riveted yet to make way for making the upper air zone later. I just held it in place by screws for testing purposes.

Test Your Ears

MetalZone — Tue, 14 Nov 2006 00:00:59 +0800

http://jakemandell.com/tonedeaf/
Take the above test.

Then post your score

LOL... I got 75.0%

Want to find: UV reactive acrylic, 8mm thick

MetalZone — Thu, 11 May 2006 12:47:40 +0800

As topic says, just trying my luck here since I'm unable to find.
some of you might know.

looking for UV reactive acrylic, 8mm thick
clear colour without UV, under UV lighting glows green.
or
green tinted, under UV lighting glows green.

Need about 2x1 feet.

Please let me know if you have or you know where to get.

DIY Aluminium Casing for Guitar Multi-Effects

MetalZone — Sun, 08 Jan 2006 01:49:35 +0800

The cardbox box for my Korg ToneWorks AX1500G was getting somewhat worn from lugging it around to church, events, camps for the past 3 years. Since I always had a hard case for my electric guitar, i decided to make a simple aluminium case for my multi-effects too.

This issin't my usual precision work, so the workmanship is a little shabby. Coz I was doing it in a rush to finish it before I get back to KL. It only took me less than one and a half days to make it, thanks to some help from my dad.

Materials used: 1mm thick aluminium sheet, 25mm wide aluminium L-bracket, 12.5mm wide aluminium L-bracket, 2X hinges, 2X pull down latch, bostik super steel epoxy, rivets (i only used rivets in conjunction with epoxy, no screws) and some superglue (to hold some parts together temporarily), 1 inch thick black foam, 1X plastic handle, 8X corner edging.

1. First of all, plan what you want to do. The end product is only as good as how well you planned it. Measure the size of the equipment you want to make a case for. Consider how much strength you need for the case. When planning the dimensions, be sure to take in account of the thickness of the padding or foam that you intend to use. Decide on how do you want to divide the casing where it will open up (look at my pictures as an example). Remember to consider the sizes and types of aluminium L-brackets available to you and how you are going to piece them together. Take in account of the material thickness (eg. the thickness of the aluminium sheet or plywood). I can't stress enough on the planning stage. Planning is just as important as actually building it. If you can, design it in AutoCAD (I use AutoCAD whenever I'm designing anything, including modding) or any CAD program or draw it on paper. Then, calculate how much materials you need and proceed to buy them. Buy a little extra in case you make a mistake.

2. Draw out the pieces which you intend to cut on the materials. Draw accurately! Use a proper ruler and set square or the L-ruler. Remember to take in account even the 1 mm wide cut line made by the jigsaw or dremel. Cut the aluminium sheet or plywood according to the dimensions that you specified in planning. For the L-brackets, same thing. Just that you have to also cut a 45 degree angle for the corners where it will meet another piece. Use a file or some sandpaper to smoothen out the rough cuts.

3. So you got all the parts? It's time to piece them together. Some examples which you could use to attach them together: Rivets, screws, epoxy glue. I used both rivets and epoxy glue in my case. Now its time to drill the holes for the rivets/screws. Measure and mark the locations where you want to drill the holes. Always use a block of wood at the back when you are drilling through so that the hole doesnt get warped or become pear shaped. You can either drill through both the L-bracket and the aluminiums sheet or plywood at the same time, or drill through them seperately. If you do drill through them seperately, you need to be very accurate with your drilling to make sure everything lines up perfectly. If you choose to drill through both together, remember to mark both pieces with a pencil so that you know which piece matches which side. Be sure to use the right drill bit size to fit the size of the rivets that you may be using. It should be slightly larger than the size of the rivets.

4. Some people aren't familiar with how rivets work, so anyway here's basically how you do it. First you need a riveter. You can buy a relatively cheap hand riveter from a hardware shop together with some rivets. The head of the riveter has different interchangeable sizes to match the diameter of the rivets. When choosing rivets, choose according to what you need. You dont need humongous rivets for small joints like these. On each rivet, there's two sides; One side with a larger diameter and a ball at the end, and one side with a long smaller diameter shaft. The side with the ball is where you insert into the hole where you intend to rivet, whereas the other shaft is where you insert into the riveter. To rivet a joint, put the appropriate sides into their respective holes as explained previously, and pull the lever of the handle. You most probably need to release the handle and pull the second time. You will come to a point where it stops, pull the handle even harder and the shaft will snap off leaving the ball end of the rivet on the other side of the joint. Do it correctly and you should have a nice rivet joint. If you do make a mistake and need to remove a rivet, just drill through the rivet and it should come off.

5. The remaining steps with the hinges and latches should be self-explained. For the foam, try to design them so that you can just fit them in like the way I did. Cut it with a sharp and long blade or knife to get a clean cut.

Thats about it for the tutorial I guess. Good luck!

After adding the handle and corner edges/feet.

Without the foam put in

The parts of the foam. No glue required. Just fit them in like a jigsaw puzzle.