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All About Archery V1

ieR — Sun, 05 Apr 2015 08:24:12 +0800

Been thinking to do an Archery Thread for sometime to gather people who share the same interests. might take me some time to gather all the info need to do a minor introduction to archery on the first page. hope this thread also help some parent to understand archery if their children would pick up this sport.

History of Archery
i will write this as we go along the way

Introduction to archery as sport
*safety notice: DRY FIRE; Dry fire is result from firing a blank, known as drawing the bow and release without an arrow, all the energy will transfer back to the bow and cause really heavy damage to the bow, may even result in 'exploding' bow that will have component flying out and may hurt the archer and people around them. Never NEVER ever fire(release) a bow with no arrow or using under-weighted arrow(refer to arrow building section)

i. Wooden Recurve Bow
Usually club will use this as standard in house bow and to be used in indoor clubs, its cheap, easy and low cost to maintain. very low poundage (bow power) to start with, so new comer can play for hours without hurting themselves. Their draw weight usually in between 12-18 poundage. Some people owns this bow for casual/recreational shooting at home party or parks games.
Many clubs also uses these wooden bow for beginners or nourish children as young as 10 year old before going for advance bow setup.

Investing in a Wooden Bow can range from 300myr up to 1000myr(for those icthy hand wanted to grab a good sights)

ii. Advance Recurve Bow
Some clubs offer Advance Recurve Bow for trying out, its a little heavier, stronger to pull.
When someone starting to get serious with Archery, Clubs will advise them to try on Advance Recurve. At this point, the Recurve Bow will be tuned to your body/style. This is where you will require lots of Disciplines and Consistency to be able to shoot great accuracy (grouping) up to 90 meters!(outoor field). This Advance Recurve will have a few more extra component then a beginner wooden bow to assist in longer distance accuracy and consistency. The draw weight can goes up to #40pound. There are extra component such as Clicker for more consistency, Plunger for arrow clearance, better and expensive Sights, Stabilizer(the long stick pointing out in front of the bow that make it looks like starwars X-wing fighter), better customizable finger tab, etc. When people advance to this stage, they tend to go for outdoor field for practice, if they can master 50/70 meter range, indoor 8-18meter is easy peasy for them.

Things to note in advance recurve bow
Arrows length are cut to precise draw length with point and nock inserted (seek club advice and service), this is required so your clicker may click and give you a consistency draw, since extra draw of 1 inch can make a differences of 2 extra poundage and making the arrow fly higher missing the 10 point target.

Investing in Advance Recurve Bow(complete) can range from 2,000myr up to 15,000myr
Famous brand are the Win&Win, and SF archery for bows, and Shibuya, and Doinker for accessories.
*Blue wordings are part/component that you can buy.

iii. Compound Bow (Target type, designed for Competition)
This is the weird looking bow with wheels and multiple strings joke aside, after a period of time, a number of Recurve archer eventually will want to go for a higher accuracy shooting result (higher points), they will tend to try on compound bow. Compound bow are very powerful and high in accuracy Archery, you could say a compound bow is a technologically featured bow. Usually bad shooting result from a person's body form then a compound bow problem. They are usually paired with really good 'Scope' with lens that 'zoom' into targets, much more advance 'Sights' with a lot of micro adjustment (tilt, yaw, rotate), 'Peep' for aiming assist, 'Kisser' for anchoring assist, 'Speed nocks' for string to speed up the arrow flights, a mechanical hand/thumb/strap 'Release', advance drop rest or blade rest, and many more. The special feature of a compound bow to Recurve is Let-off. Let-off will ease the draw weight eg. 75% off at full draw (when you hit the wall). meaning a #60 only feel like 15pound to hold at fulldraw. 75%(discount) off the weight. with little strength to hold the bow at full draw, the archer can concentrate on aiming on the target.

due to such advance in technology bow, which give such precise accuracy, many archer develop a sickness call 'Target Panic' which can be by either releasing the arrow too early or holding too long and panic until unable to release the arrow. usually these problem will be cure by using a special mechanical 'back tension' Release, which will 'surprise' you by releasing the arrow with slight pullback of your draw arm, which your body form slightly similar with shooting a recurve bow.

Compound bow can be rated up to 330fps (feet per sec) which means the arrow are traveling 100meter per sec, so it take less then 1 sec to reach a 90m target!!!
(for comparison, airgun, those uses pallets are also rated around 300+fps)

Customizing a Compound bow can be a big headache. you will require to check your draw-length (DL) accurately since buying a high Branded Compound bow have a short adjustable draw length, so you will require to buy the 'right' Cam(roller that stores the energy). usually eg, Hoyt Compound bow has Cam DL of Cam#1 25-27" DL, Cam#2 27-29"DL, Cam#3 29-31"DL, buying a wrong DL Cam can cost a lot money to change a correct Cam.
and Draw Weight (poundage) limb can be slightly more fix of #10 increment, #30-40, #40-50, #50-60, #60-70, so getting the right poundage for your draw weight is important as some people get injured from pulling a heavier poundage then they can handle.

Investing in a Compound Bow can range from 2,000myr up to 20,000myr
Famous brands are the Hoyt(expensive, consider the most advance in compound archery industry), Matthew, PSE(budget/hunting series) for bows
Axcel(expensive) surelock(budget) sight and scope, QAD drop Rest, or simple Trophy Taker Rest, and many more.
*Blue wordings are part/component that you can buy.

iv. Youth Compound Bow or Beginner Compound Bow (Multi Adjustable Bow)
Youth Compound Bow are also known as growing up bow. as a young teenager, their body will outgrowth many thing, longer, bigger, taller, stronger... so draw length of the bow will keep on changing, and they can pull heavier draw weight.... so these bow, are design with a wide adjustment, having drawlength(eg, Hoyt Ignite) ranging from 19-30", poundage adjustment from #15 to #70... which sound better then the compound bow mentioned above. the only downside is its not as forgiving in fine tuning for accuracy. and its fairly cheap too, you can get one ready to shoot(with arrows and release complete set) for under 2,000 myr. another famous beginner Compound is the Diamond Edge.

word of advise, there are many cheap china alternative/copycat... but i never ever recommend them. because the power releases from a 50/60 pound bow is very destructive!, and untrusted bow can "explodes" and cause injury to the archer and everyone around him/her. i first hand saw a bow exploded in front of me, luckily i walk away from the shooter after helping him to sight(bino) his accuracy/point, the CAM flew 10 meters away, limb broke into 7/8 pieces, the riser has crack all over the riser/limb bolt, the arrow broke into 3 piece. it was a branded bow but with manufacturing defect (he warranty a new set). imagine those untrusted China Copycats. Archery is actually a very Dangerous sport, it requires very high discipline and respect, please only use trusted brand.

v. Traditional Bow
(more info required)
There are several type of traditional bow, from the Chinese (China) bow to Mongolian Bow/Archery (also known as horse riding archery) to Korean Bow, and Japanese Kyudo.

Investing in a Traditional Bow can range from 300myr up to 10,000myr(kyudo)

Kyudo (Japan's Art of Archery)
There is a group of people are practicing Kyudo. its a very special spiritual and tranquility archery practice. for more information 'Lim Eng Chuan' from Facebook

(cerdit to chriscym for the following kyudo information)

"Kyudo can be separated into modern and traditional Kyudo, however both are represented in the International Kyudo Federation under a unified form.

1) Traditional Kyudo
There are few notable Traditional Kyudo which still in existance today. Namely Heki Ryu, Ogasawara Ryu & Honda Ryu.

Shamen Style (Heki Ryu)
- Heki ryu was the official school for Tokugawa Shogunate in terms of shooting that was founded by a famous Samurai called Heki Danjo Masatsugu during the 15th century
- Heki Ryu focus on the practical shooting that were technique used in Battlefield
- Became the standard Archery technique used by Samurai warriors in the battlefield
- Uniqueness of Heki ryu comes from the shamen style which the kyudoka position the bow in the front position in a ready to shoot stance

Shamen (Honda Ryu & Ogasawara)
- Originally from horse back archery technique. 2 popular styles of Shomen type of Kyudo are namely Ogasawara & Honda Ryu

2) Modern Kyudo
- Modern Kyudo combined elements of Ogasawara and Honda Ryu in their ceremony and grading standards.
- Elements of battle field emphasis were not part of the syllabus, but focus on the graceful movements, philosophy and form of Kyudo
- Majority of modern kyudo which shoot 28m target only.

3) Koshiya Kumiyumi (Battlefield Archery)
Note : this wasn't really part of Kyudo, but this is covered as part of Traditional Heki Ryu syllabus and Satsuma Heki Ryu
Divided into 2 sections of the shooting sequences. First part is called "Kazuya" which to target long distance enemy, archers begin shoot light arrows quickly in half kneeling position.
Second part is called "Yo-Mae" which shoots heavier arrow, assuming the enemy is close to you.
This demonstration was established based on battle field shooting training. It used to be done separately, but re-organized about 200years ago for demonstration with Japanese armour."

Malaysia Kyudo Network FB
Malaysia-Kyudo-Association FB

Bow alternate as Hunting
**it is Illegal to Hunt in Malaysia, but still, some small group of people practice in some part of Malaysia. Malaysia Custom will confiscate any hunting component if found in shipping. I do not encourage people to do it, but for many reason people has to do it, since for the good reason, i wish to share proper ways of hunting with safety and respect.

there are many reason to hunt, some hunt for food(only adult animals), some hunt for security, some hunt for pest control, some hunts in Farms designed for hunting. Some animal are a pest to farmer(rabbits, wild wolves/dogs), destroying their harvest, crops or eat up their animals, hence people will want to kill off the pest... they can either Poison the animal, or hunt with a Gun, or with a Bow... Poison will be dangerous to use, it may contaminated the water source, other animal and come back to you. But why would anyone wanted to hunt with a bow then using a Gun which is easy and simple?... well... its because Bow are Silent. Fire a gun, every little to huge animal within 300m radius will be frighten, run away and hide. Hunt with a bow can be continue to next target within the same period of time. One after another.

IMHO, Compound Hunting bow, has far more advance then Target (competition) Compound Bow. Its because Hunting Bow are design to be Very Quiet, Very little to non Vibration. Easier to draw, and more letoff for holding and waiting for the animal to stop long enough for your aim and release. They Vibrate so little that its so nice to shoot over and over again, that in rare cases, there are a small number of Archer actually uses Hunting Bow to join Target Competition.

CrossBow
sadly to say, due to the design, having a 'trigger' on the body is considered as 'firearm weapon'(eg Gun) and it is illegal to carry or own a crossbow in malaysia. there is no license to be release to own a crossbow (although i seen once, during a opening ceremony of a archery competition, they fire a crossbow for the opening)

Arrows
there're several type of arrow,
i. Wooden Arrows made from certain wood or bamboo are generally cheap and less durable but very forgiving. safe for lower poundage uses, often used with traditional archery
ii. Aluminium Arrows, cheap, repairable, mostly for children and beginner uses. effective only for short distance and low poundage. heavy poundage tend to bend the arrow a lot, hence requires straightening often with roller tool.
iii. Fiber Glass Arrows (they are not carbon fiber) arrows, relatively cheap, durable (depend on 'level'). most club/shop uses china fiber glass arrow with their inhouse bow, as its cheap and durable. (im not sure if there is any branded company still makes them... im pretty sure most has switched to carbon fiber)
iv. Carbon Fibre Arrows, well... no need to explain, expensive and durable. can take a lot of beating.

Fusion/Dual Spine Arrows, (mixture of two 'layer' spine) from the 2 leading brand for Target Competition***.
Easton (USA) is famous for their X10(means X - 10 points), dual spine of aluminium and carbon fiber... they are very very high in accuracy due to their forgivingness... used by many world class archery champion, hence the steep pricing... many professional archer and coaches swear by them.
(but, IMHO, they have terrible durability. It is good enough for couple of competition, then time to throw or use it as practice/training arrow. this is all due to the aluminium core that once it's bent, there is no way to repair it, hence the arrow become less consistent. World Champion Archer are usually sponsored, so they have no worries of durability as they get new arrows all the time )
Carbon Express ('CX', Korean), are using dual carbon fiber spine (for most of their arrows) and slightly cheaper then Easton, but very durable, they top arrow, the CX Nano XR/Pro are now getting a lot recognition.
(my own opinion and experience, CX can take a lot more beating then easton and still shoot fairly straight and groups tight in 90m)

if were to ask me which are better, i will not comment as both are really good competition arrow backed by professional. pick the one that suit you or recommended by your coach, because your couch may have better experience tuning the arrow for you.

Both Easton X10 and CX Nano Pro, a complete build up arrow and tune can cost up to 2000myr (or more) for a dozen*4.

As for more budget concern users, or for new comers who might always miss their arrows, for practice, you can buy cheaper alternate arrows but always make sure it's Spine is 'harder' then your poundage for safety reason. i've seen accidents, arrow breaks aparts in mid flights, partial dry fires and carbon arrow breaks from releasing.

***, Target Competition for a Full Circuit can range up to 90M in an outdoor, competition will still continue under huge wind and rain except Thunder Storm.
*4, Arrows are usually sold by the dozen.

Competition
dizzy from typing so much...

Notice how when comes to bow setting, i often mention coach, Archery tuning requires a lot expertise and experience and Coaches are usually exposed to archery more then anyone else. Like i said before, Archery requires Discipline and Respect. I hold high Respect for all the Archery Coaches as they are also the people who keep archery spirit alive.

CS6 Blending question

ieR — Sun, 21 Oct 2012 23:04:24 +0800

hi~ i have this problem with cs6

layer A, with white background. use 'multiply' blend to hide the white
layer B, normal...

merging A and B, the white from A comes back~

as far as i recall, previous photoshop version will leave the layer A 'multiple' blended white invisible...

yea, i know i can just hit 'multiply' on the layerA+B merged,

but u see, i wanted to add drop shadow on the merged layerA+B... but the white background of layer A is there... hence i can add it properly.

the Layer A is too sophisticated to extract out :/

before people start screaming at me, yea, i did google, no luck...

Discussion on Sony A1S

ieR — Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:38:52 +0800

There is a rumor (from SAR regarding Sony developing a new camera system(new for sony), which may have a square sensor, ~~that works something like a medium format square sensor.~~

(SR3) HOT: New Sony A1S with Full Frame square sensor!!!
(SR2) First specs about the A1S square sensor…

again, this is just a low rated rumor. btw, dont get mislead by the picture on SAR, those are just randomly picked picture to put there to look nice, the camera/sensor picture doesnt represent the real thing.

i just wanna know, what Sony, Nikon, Canon 'Gear Head' (those ppl who really care the 0.001mm missing in their FF sensor) thinks bout it. What do you guys think of square sensor. would C n N user buy it(or put pressure on C n N to do similar moves), or would medium format user might consider moving down since will able to use "FF lenses/Zeiss optics". let's put this would happen the same way if it was Canon is the one who is developing the square sensor, not sony. so, i'm more keen to know what you think of square sensor, for DSLR, and able to use back FF lenses, not sony or canon or nikon fanboy sh1ts, what if nikon also will use this sony sensor too? i wan idea from people who seeks image quality...
i hope this brings a healthy discussion to help other interested people to understand more bout sensor or perhaps towards technology and camera.

and i know m4/3 or nex users will have no interest in this, the reason they brought smaller portable system in the first place is not to have huge camera. i hope those group dont throw a trolls over randomly.

i know there will be a lot of bashing and flamboyant, but i hope after all the silly constructive comment, we still can come out for mcD and Teh tarik, never put an constructive argument in heart. also, i know there are many super fanboy from Sony/Nikon/Canon threads(i know who and who), if only u can put proper constructive argument to improve ur trolling skill

again, let me stress this is a very low rated rumor, it may never be real, but for the sake of understand more what/how sensor will affect photography/gear/gadgets heads market/future.

i know i will save money for this shit if its really real and as long as its cheaper then pentax645 (since i already saved 70% fund for pentax645)

i probably think this thread will die in 2 week time...

the word like "sony/canon/nikon future is dead/doom" or similar post is prohibited

Guide - Filters for your camera lenses

ieR — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 11:27:24 +0800

i notice many people repeating ask about filters, so i will come out with the guide here.

english is not my native language, i started to learn english only 3 years ago, pls feel free to correct my english if i said anything wrong. thank you

Work in Progress, others may contribute if you have thing to add credit will be given.

i will fill it up with photos later, i prefer to use my (or yours) photo then picking up from the internet. of coz, if you have photo to share? please let me know too!

photo i am looking for, basically is polarizer set, with and without.
long exposure for ND post.

sample photo look of Cokin and Tian Ya holder/complete set.

Question bout Diamonds

ieR — Sat, 01 May 2010 00:18:50 +0800

hi lyn,

i wondering, if anyone here might know the rough pricing of diamond of

0.5carat, normal round cut (i guess, not the 8H8A), color H, and VS2 clarity....

or anyone here would love to share what their husband got for them (and rough pricing?) so i can do a comparison? thanks~~!!!

*edit: its loose diamond with Cert.

[addedon]May 2, 2010, 2:51 am[/addedon]no respond, closing topic if u would like to share info, can PM me.

need help with editings

ieR — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 02:57:04 +0800

could anyone help me with this? someone fires a cooltemp flash modifier... this's what happened.... now i need to get this photo

to this WB.

and describe the step done in photoshop. please, and thank you very much :/

Helps with Font

ieR — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 00:36:56 +0800

[attachmentid=1402673]
what font is this? or it is edited fonts?

notice how the T touch the H, then the height of h, K, l and L are higher then the cap T. thanks in advance.

help with Fonts

ieR — Sun, 11 Jan 2009 19:49:35 +0800

hi, i'm sure i am in the wrong section, suppose to be in digital imaging but i believe i get more proper feedback from here, coz in Photography, Digital Imaging & Video everyone is talking camera... SORRY MOD/ADMIN

anyone know wat font is this?

buyin camera in taiwan?

ieR — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 17:12:50 +0800

hello lyn,

i was wondering does taiwan's DSLR pricing would be better then m'sia?

i'm planing to get Sony A200 (or A300) around before chinesenewyear, since i am heading to 'taiwan' for cny vacation(wanna shot photos of taiwan) i wonder does buying from taiwan would worth more? and does Sony carry international warranty in taiwan? thanks

or anyone has a taiwan website that has a price listing(in english, idk chinese) so i can compare?

Thank You.

PHOSPHORESCENT paint

ieR — Thu, 30 Aug 2007 04:13:55 +0800

ermm i'm not sure i posted in right section or not, but pls be forgiving if i made any mistake

i'm looking for PHOSPHORESCENT paint/powder/dye, known as glow paint. pls do not mistaken for florescent paint. phospsorescent paint is 100% clear, unlike 'glow in the dark' has green element. if anyone has idea, pls pls guide me. thanks.

* i made another post in Casings and Modifications, is it possible to link both this thread together? coz i'm afraid this forum is too big that ppl from art and design wont thread to Casings and Modifications.

HDD's IC caught fire

ieR — Wed, 02 Aug 2006 20:40:42 +0800

My 120gb Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 IC caught fire (not actual FIRE< but the IC turn smoky then the whole IC turns RED/ORANGE)... well, i made the mistake myself and wont talk bout it.

well, i dont really care about the Warranty Claim, what i really care is my Precious 70gb of Pictures!!!! my GF, my Pals, My naked pictures (jkjk) which i collected for 4 years of memory.

is there any advise out there can help me out?

i myself gotten myself several choice,

1. find someone with same harddisk, (im willing to swap his 120gb with a new 120gb hdd with receipt), swap the circuit with my burned hdd.

2. willing to pay up for watever price if there is people who can extract the data out of the hdd into any new hdd. (i guess involving removing the platters.)

3. new advise is welcome. thanks