Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by efaceninja

Perodua's TPMS tyre pressure monitoring system

efaceninja — Mon, 07 May 2018 19:09:45 +0800

Hello, I've been wondering if this TPMS is any good? Has anyone bought and used it? I planning to buy it to install on a non perodua car.

Perodua TPMS www.perodua.com.my/press-release/view/392

Any feedback much appreciated.

Decarbonise Engine with Water

efaceninja — Sun, 03 Jan 2016 23:03:21 +0800

[YOUTUBE]KFtp_jmLF3k[/YOUTUBE]
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...opics/1581337/1

as per the youtube video from the popular ericthecarguy, he has done decarbonising by dripping small amount of water into a intake of a hot running engine (to create steam) to decarbonise...

1. does it really works?
2. in the video he's doing on a carb engine. how about modern fuel injected engine with cat-con. how about Direct Injection petrol engine?
3. for FI car, i reckon it can be done by removing the air intake hose/airbox, and finely spray water into the butterfly valve by water sprayer.
4. anyone tried it before on an old car? does it works? any side effects?? (beside the obvious danger of hydrolock)

Brake Booster feeling delayed brake power

efaceninja — Sat, 10 Oct 2015 18:32:31 +0800

Hi, recently my car's brake has developed a symptom that's new to me. i'll try to describe as best as i can.
If i press my brake pedal slowly, the brake feel and stopping power feels kinda normal. but if i press the brake faster & harder (ie stomp brake), the brake pedal won't go down much, like hitting something hard. after 1 second or so, the brake pedal will go down and strong brake power occurs like normal. the "brake pedal won't go down much" feeling is very similar to when you press the brake pedal when engine is off (ie no vacuum power)

so to me, it kinda feels like if i stomp hard, the brake booster's assist is delayed for 1 second. this is dangerous in emergency braking situation.
what could've cause this symptom?? I've done the following and the problem/symptom still exist.

- Bleed the brake lines. so i'm quite sure it is not trapped air in brake lines. the brake fluid is new and fluid level is good.

any help/advise is much appreciated.

[WTB] Corolla AE101 4AFE ori Intake Duct

efaceninja — Thu, 01 Oct 2015 18:58:05 +0800

Item(s): Toyota Corolla AE101's 4AFE or 5AFE's original Air Intake duct that direct air from the front of the car to the air box. Please refer to the picture, the one highlighted in red cloud.

Package includes: The air duct itself, the big resonator is optional

Price: Please offer your price

Warranty: not required

Dealing method: Please show picture

Location of buyer: Sarawak

Contact method/details: Lowyat

Age of item: Used

---

Item(s) conditions: Used but still in good condition

Picture:[attachmentid=5036192]

Reason for buy: my Air Intake duct was missing/removed by previous owner

VVT, VTEC, CPS

efaceninja — Mon, 13 Jul 2015 22:16:42 +0800

[attachmentid=4592062]
i'm quite sure many of us always thought that toyota's VVT & honda's VTEC is the same type of system that changes the intake valve timing, just different name for different car manufacturer. Me included not too long ago. As it turns out, it isn't. So i've been gathering and reading infos online and trying to built up a table that shows different type of variable valve timing & lifting tech for each car manufacturer and their names.

Toyota
VVT - Variable Valve Timing
VVT-i - Variable Valve Timing-Intelligent
VVTL-i - Variable Valve Timing & Lifting-Intelligent
Valvematic - Valvematic

Honda
VTEC - variable Valve Timing and lift Electronic Control (now honda's name does not really represent it's tech, because for VTEC, there's actually no "timing")
i-VTEC - Intelligent-variable Valve Timing and lift Electronic Control (actually honda lump a lot of things as i-VTEC, because the VTEC name is just too popular)
VTC - Variable Timing Control
A-VTEC - Advanced VTEC

Nissan
CVTC - Continuous variable Valve Timing Control (not to be mistaken with CVT Transmission though)
Neo VVL - Neo Variable Valve Lift
VVEL - Variable Valve Event and Lift

Mitsubishi
MIVEC - Mitsubishi Innovative Valve timing Electronic Control
MIVTLEC - Mitsubishi Innovative Valve timing and Lift Electronic Control (actually there's no MIVTLEC, Mitsubishi used to call its VVL type tech as MIVEC also back in the 90's. Now, it also called its VVT-i type as MIVEC

Mazda
S-VT - Sequential Valve Timing (actually i'm not too sure if this is VVT type or VVT-i type)

Ford
VCT - Variable Cam Timing

Perodua
DVVT - Dynamic Variable Valve Timing

Proton
VVT - Variable Valve Timing (not to be mistaken with IAFM)
CPS - Cam Profile Swtiching

Hyundai
CVVT - Continuous Variable Valve Timing

Now i might be mistaken at some of the info above, please feel free to correct me (and i'll change in this post). this is just an info for all to read.

Toyota Corolla AE/EE90, 100, 110 Car Club

efaceninja — Tue, 13 Jan 2015 10:08:43 +0800

ermmm, I'm a little surprised i can't find a car club thread for these 3 generation of Toyota Corolla? anyone?

Single Split vs Multi Split for normal house

efaceninja — Sat, 03 Jan 2015 20:17:22 +0800

Hi, wanna ask if Multi-split is better or single split is better (both inverter system/unit), if with the condition/scenario as follow:

1. Lets assume i got 3 separate room needs cooling, Master Bed Room, 2nd Bed room (both at 2nd floor), Living room at ground floor. instead if installing 3 single split 1 hp each, is it better with multisplit 3hp outdoor, 3 x indoor blower?

2. When i want to cool the living room, i switch on the indoor blower at the living room, will it summon all 3hp mightiness of the outdoor unit? cooling the the living room faster.

3. then, i go to bed at master bedroom. so i switch-off the living room's indoor unit, then switch on the indoor unit in master bedroom. will it also summon all 3hp coolness into the master bedroom? this will cool the bedroom very fast. then being an inverter system, will it tune down back to 1hp after it reaches my target temperature at 24C?

4. if i switch on all 3 unit, all room will share the 3hp from the outdoor unit. this mean that with the master bedroom and 2nd bedroom being smaller space than the living room, they'll reach target temp faster than the living room. lets say after 1hr, master and 2nd bedroom reached target 24c, while living room still at 26c. now with master & 2nd bedroom has already less cooling demand, will the living room unit now get more cooling power??

5. this scenario lets assume that by calculation, each room's cooling requirement is: Master (1.5hp), 2nd bedroom (1hp), Living room (2hp). you see, when combined, they need 5.5hp of cooling power. but i assume that i won't be always switching on ALL 3 room all the time, it would be rare occurrence.

6. is my impression on how the multi-split system operates correct? because i'm not that familiar with multi-split system.

Corolla AE/EE100 Swap [s]1NZ-FE[/s] 2ZR-FE

efaceninja — Wed, 29 Oct 2014 10:17:57 +0800

ermm.. not sure how i want to ask this but, do anyone here heard about this before?

i've a Corolla EE100 chassis, engine already swapped to 4A-FE with 4-spd AT. Now i'm thinking of Getting vios half-cut, swap the 1NZ-FE engine (and maybe the gearbox? MT and AT also can) and install it on EE100 chassis?

anyone done this before? or anyone thinks it can be done and can advice what do i need? Reasons i'm thinking it:
1. It sounds cool, no? swap to 4AGE is too common
2. I pursue for better FC. the current 4AFE w 4spd AT only gives me 8km/l. the investment cost should be way below Axia's price ofcourse.
3. hopefully better NVH as vios's engine should be more quite.
4. i love this old-school corolla chassis.

would it fit into the engine bay? gearbox can fit in too? Discussions~~!

Coolant temperature gauge problem

efaceninja — Wed, 15 Oct 2014 11:45:32 +0800

can anyone help me to diagnose / suspect what is the problem with my engine coolant temperature gauge? it is always pointing to 'cold' only. so i'm not sure if it is the needle not working, or the temperature sensor not working, or the wiring of the temperature sensor not working, or simply the fuse no good??

please look at this video, when i turn my car key from OFF to ON, you can see the needle rise up by a little bit (engine was warm at that time as i just completed a drive). when i turn to OFF again, the needle goes down a little bit. need to know which went wrong and so i can replace the part accordingly.
[YOUTUBE]RkllF0g2JOY[/YOUTUBE]

the engine is 4AFE, and i've no idea where the coolant temperature is located.. and also btw, does this engine has OBDII port? or what diagnosis port standard is it using?

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

or if anyone can offer a good way to troubleshoot is much appreciated.

Scrappage scheme should be implemented – MAA

efaceninja — Thu, 11 Sep 2014 10:55:53 +0800

http://paultan.org/2014/09/10/scrappage-sc...mplemented-maa/

screw it man, i totally wanna keep my vintage car.

PDRM wants to use hybrid car

efaceninja — Sun, 24 Aug 2014 20:14:58 +0800

http://www.infokereta.com/13341/polis-baka...ai-oktober-ini/

QUOTE

Nampak gayanya usaha pihak polis memang menepati keperluan semasa. Selain dapat mengurangkan kos penggunaan bahan api, usaha ini juga dilihat sebagai menyokong memelihara alam sekitar

walao, wanted to use hybrid RIGHT AFTER hybrid cars here no more tax incentive??

and what happened to this?
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...95524&hl=revolo

Rear seat head rest, does it matter to you?

efaceninja — Sat, 16 Aug 2014 21:01:04 +0800

actually i'm not sure if anyone even cared about the rear head rest, but i'm just going to ask out anyways. do you guys think that it is important for your car?

example of without head rest:

yes there's sort of a small bump at the rear seat for the head. but i don't consider those as head rest. just a small pump which ain't helping much.

example of with head rest:

this one with retractable rear head rest

for me, i think it is extremely important. imagine sitting at the rear of the car without head rest in a traffic jam. the driver has to accelerate decelerate many many times. your head will just swing back and forth constantly and i think it's very uncomfortable & tiring. because i seat at rear seat of a myvi before, the small bump is just not helping at all. same situation for those rear seat with retractable head rest, but didn't extend it. for me, it is almost a deal breaker when buying a car.

so.. what do you guys think?

Charging car battery from standard wall socket

efaceninja — Wed, 06 Aug 2014 13:02:39 +0800

anyone know what is this called? where can i buy it? how much is it?
Visited a car show room and noticed them charging their display car's battery with this charger. looks very convenient and might be a good tool to maintain/prolong the life of a car's battery.

i suppose it can be used to slightly charge-back flat battery (forgot switch off headlight) and 'jump-start' your car if you can find an electric socket nearby.

any ideas?
[attachmentid=4083272][attachmentid=4083273][attachmentid=4083274]

Aircond not cold at idling

efaceninja — Mon, 04 Aug 2014 10:19:24 +0800

wanna ask aircond sifus, my family car corolla AE101 4AFE, symptom like this. In day time, when the car is moving ie above 60km/h, the aircond is okay and cold enough. when come to a stop, the aircond become hot. I tried revving and holding the engine at 2-3k rpm during stationary while parked, same, no cold air come out. at night time, the aircond is super cold all the time regardless car moving or not.

have changed a few time gas in the past with no improvement. Also the radiator fan is working fine (there's only 1 fan for this car right? i didn't pay too much attention ) so.. what's likely the problem?

also when you guys says "go service the aircond", what are the service can be done to the aircond actually?? like, for engine can change engine oil, gear can change ATF.. etc. so aircond can change gas, and.. what elses? got 'aircond oil' need to drain out and change one? got some sort of flushing (like engine oil flush)??

Refill 'Maintenance Free' Car Battery

efaceninja — Sun, 06 Jul 2014 19:51:25 +0800

wanna ask you all, anyone here tried / have experience refilling MF battery before??
[YOUTUBE]gKs-ZcgLKh4[/YOUTUBE]

Because normally saw ppl says that MF battery life span is much shorter than traditional wet battery. well i think its because we have LONG been misleadingly educated that all MF battery no need maintenance no need refill, rosak liaw just change. Since MF battery normally is warranty 1 year. i think after warranty, we can pry open and refill the battery to extend the MF battery life somemore. anyway, just wanna ask if anyone tried before.

Gate Shifter VS Traditional Ratchet Shifter

efaceninja — Sat, 05 Jul 2014 20:58:19 +0800

Gate Shifter

Traditional Ratchet Shifter

which one do you guys prefer? and why?

I personally liked traditional ratchet more. Because i feel like when i'm driving gate shifter, the chance to accidentally push the knob to R is higher. as for ratchet gear, as long as i don't press the ratchet button, it won't go into R no matter how.

New Eco tyre launched in malaysia, ToyoNanoEnergy3

efaceninja — Fri, 20 Jun 2014 17:48:02 +0800

http://www.toyotires.com.my/news/item/id/8576

New eco tyre launched in malaysia! more choices! anyone tried? how does it fare against xm2, ep200, ae01??

The fuzz about rear disc brake

efaceninja — Tue, 10 Jun 2014 14:17:57 +0800

Normally when we read the car reviews written by the onwer or test drive experience or comments on new car announcement, i can see a lot of ppl complaint that 'its only a rear drum brake', ' it should have come with 4 disc brake', 'manufacturer should've included rear disc brake. So what's the fuzz about rear disc brake??

Ok let's discuss. Disc brake does have stronger braking power than drum. However, during braking, your car's weight is shifted to the front, which means the front tyre is providing most of the braking power. Whereas your rear braking power is not efficient anymore. Therefore, no matter how good or how strong your rear brake is, it doesn't matter, because the braking power (rear) is not transmitted effectively. Disc or drum, they provide same or negligible different in overall actuall braking power.

I see lots of comment say 'its a rear drum, not safe!' I think the quality of the tyre, ABS, EBD, VSC is far far more important than rear disc brake, in terms of shorter braking distant.

Ofcourse, if you drive your car like racing, that's a whole other issue and i would agree rear disc brake make a different. However, in normal ppl car, is rear disc brake really that important?

Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost launched – RM93,888

efaceninja — Fri, 02 May 2014 21:19:03 +0800

Ford Fiesta 1.0 EcoBoost launched – RM93,888
http://paultan.org/2014/05/02/ford-fiesta-...unched-rm96500/

lol, the link is RM 96500 while the title is RM93,888

anyway, i believe this is one of the most awaited car recently.. the EcoBoost that is touted as extreme good FC per horsepower.

Fiesta EcoBoost 1.0 RM93,888 (125PS)
Preve Premium CFE RM 72,839 (140PS)
City V RM 90,800 (120PS)
City S RM 75,800 (120PS)
Jazz Hybrid RM 89,912 (102PS combined)
Cerato RM 99,888 (130PS)
Elantra Standard RM 93,901 (130PS)
208 RM 85,888 (122PS)
Vios TRD RM 93,213 (109PS) (but feels like 130PS, no?)
Vios G RM 88,513 (109PS)
Vios J RM 77,313 (109PS)
Polo CKD RM 88,628 (105PS)
Mazda 2 RM 78,157 (103PS)
Almera E RM 69,827 (102PS)
Almera VL RM 79,827 (102PS)
Attrage GS RM 69,992 ( 80PS)

i didn't line up the cars according to B or C segment or even their safety features.. i only line-up according to price that is close to or below the Fiesta Ecoboost's price. As price is the most important factors for poor fags, no?

http://www.greencarreports.com/news/108216...ter-gas-mileage
http://www.greencarreports.com/news/108061...nes-really-help
This article questions if small turbo engine is really the way to go in terms of improve FC. As we know, Toyota's lastest engine line-up are N/As.

Fight for the right to use Engine Oil of my choice

efaceninja — Tue, 10 Dec 2013 20:52:50 +0800

recently i've send an email to Hyundai Malaysia, asking/reasoning , and try to plead them to let me use the engine oil of my choice, or engine oil grade of my choice. Because the authorised SC i go usually ONLY provide Shell HX7 10w40 for hyundai car. I know they're selling Castrol Magnetec also, but they say my car ONLY can use the shell oil PROVIDED by them.

Here's my email:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Here's their response few days later:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Hyundai says there's many range of SAE grade engine oil to choose from at their SCs. Well.. that's certainly not the case, at least not ANY SCs.

From their reply, it seems that the authenticity/origin of the EO is their concern, they afraid we bought fake oil, damage the engine, and warranty matters. They got a point. but, what if i can proof that the EO that i purchase is from official distributor of that brand? with a receipt maybe...

Anyway, the reason is that i'm so itchy to try liqui moly MOS Semi-synt 10w30. Besides that, also very very itchy to try iridium spark plug... still got 3 yrs warranty to go, i want to keep my warranty. but also at the same time itchy to try something else.