Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by damone

[WTS] Mediapad M5 Pro

damone — Tue, 17 Dec 2019 10:54:47 +0800

Item(s): Mediapad M5 Pro 10 inch

Package includes: Original keyboard case cover, original flip cover, Mpen and charger. Applied tempered glass as well.

Sold

Warranty: Until 30/8/2020

Dealing method: COD only

Location: Subang Jaya/USJ

Contact method/details:
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Item(s) conditions: 8/10. Some cosmetic defects

Picture:[attachmentid=10374113][attachmentid=10374114]

Reason for sale: underutilized

[WTSwap] Ipad 2018 with Mediapad M5 pro

damone — Tue, 26 Mar 2019 17:37:46 +0800

Item(s): want to swap ipad 2018 128gb space grey wifi with Huawei Mediapad M5 pro.

Package includes: Ipad, charger and box

Price: (!!!NOTICE!!!: Sellers are required to display the exact selling prices of their products. Failure to do so will result in the deletion of the topic)

Warranty: Until Sept 2019

Dealing method: COD

Location: Subang Jaya

Contact method/details: PM
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Item(s) conditions: Pristine. Keyboard case to be given as well. Ipad applied with matte tempered glass

Picture:

Reason for sale: prefer Android

[WTS] Mi6 128gb AP black

damone — Wed, 20 Sep 2017 09:10:44 +0800

Item(s): Mi 6 ap set 128gb black

Package includes: Full set with box and 3 casings. Tempered glass applied on phone.

Price: (!!!NOTICE!!!: Sellers are required to display the exact selling prices of their products. Failure to do so will result in the deletion of the topic) SOLD

Warranty: AP set

Dealing method: COD only so you can check the phone

Location: Subang Jaya/USJ

Contact method/details: PM or zero 163235575
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Item(s) conditions: Mint. No scratches.

Picture:[attachmentid=9153504][attachmentid=9153505][attachmentid=9153506]

Reason for sale: Got my note 8.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

[WTSwap] Mi Mix 6gb to Mi6/OP5

damone — Fri, 09 Jun 2017 18:25:50 +0800

Item(s): Mi Mix 6GB 256 RAM to swap with Mi6 or OP5 8gb. Running on global official rom.

Package includes: Phone, box, charger, cable, few cases, tempered glass and screen protector

Price: Open for swap. OP5 ill add some cash. Mi6 you add abit

Warranty: Direct from China, so I guess no?

Dealing method: COD only

Location of seller: Subang Jaya/ USJ

Contact method/details: zero 163235565

Age of item: 5 months

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Item(s) conditions: Mint. Never dropped. Always in case. Ceramic is very scratch resistant

Picture: [attachmentid=9011520][attachmentid=9011521][attachmentid=9011522][attachmentid=9011524]

Reason for sale: Too big to handle. Plus dual camera seems gooding

[WTS] Samsung Note 5 64GB

damone — Mon, 09 Jan 2017 18:51:57 +0800

Item(s):Samsung Galaxy Note 5 64gb. Purchased from Direct D. Warranty over. Single sim.

Package includes: Full set (Box, charger, unused earphones, unused S-Pen tips), Lots of cases and Samsung Gear VR

Price: Sold

Warranty: No more warranty

Dealing method: COD only. To check function of phone purpose. Plus the cases are alot

Location of seller: Subang Jaya

Contact method/details:PM or ()16-3235575

Age of item: 1 year plus

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Item(s) conditions: 8/10. There is a small dent on the right aluminium bezel. Knocked on the side of table when using slim case. Easily covered up with case. Phone has never been dropped before and always in case. Never rooted or flashed custom rom.

Picture:[attachmentid=8380927][attachmentid=8380944][attachmentid=8380951][attachmentid=8380961]

Reason for sale: Got meself a MiMIX. Funding for waifu new phone.

[WTS] 2012 Preve CFE

damone — Sun, 27 Mar 2016 20:39:04 +0800

Item(s): Preve CFE 2012

Price: 42000

Location of seller: SUbang Jaya

Contact method/details: 016-3235575

Age of item: 3 and a half

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Item(s) conditions: Excellent

Picture: [attachmentid=6248140][attachmentid=6248144][attachmentid=6248146][attachmentid=6248148][attachmentid=6248149]

Reason for sale: List of things done to the car:

HID on low light
LED on high light
DRL activated
4 door and firewall soundproofing
Roof insulated (no zinc sound when raining)
Reverse camera added.
Lenso Spec F 17 inch running on 225/45/17
Chassis foamed (solid feel with stock suspension and stock ARBs)
Matte black full car wrap (needs some touching up)
Original R3 bodykit. Purchased from COSE. Receipt can be provided.
Dashboard panel has been added some insulation material to prevent vibration.

Full service record with Proton.

Stock engine. No problems with OCH hose, last checked during 90k service.
Gearbox running smooth. Stock audio still running good.

I am the first owner and car has been well taken care off.

Selling off at 42K negotiable. Welcome to test drive to feel the difference.

Loan you have to find out for yourself.

[WTT/WTS] Ipad 3rd Gen

damone — Wed, 10 Apr 2013 12:14:43 +0800

Item(s): Ipad 3rd gen black 64gb wifi cellular. Want to trade with Ipad 4th gen 64gb wifi and 4g black only. Plus top up. Can be sold if offer is good.

Package includes: Full set with box

Price:

Warranty: 2 years under Sen Heng. Still have 1 year 2 months.

Dealing method: COD only

Location of seller: Subang Jaya

Contact method/details: PM or 016-3235575

Age of item: 10 months

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Item(s) conditions: Very very minor hairline scratch on the side due to casing. Home button no problem. Jailbroken.

Picture: Will be uploaded.

Reason for sale: Need LTE.

[WTA] Machines return policy

damone — Mon, 12 Mar 2012 13:19:50 +0800

Hey guys, I just bought a TPU casing from Machines Empire Subang. Since the packaging can't be opened I went home to unbox it.

I realised that the volume buttons are not aligned properly, somewhat upwards abit. Was wondering if I can return it and exchange for a similar item and same value product?

Using IP4S btw.

[WTA] Black housing near gearbox

damone — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 16:04:56 +0800

Was looking around in the engine bay, when I notice a rectangular black box with 3 inlets.

Only 2 was connected and one was bare, when the engine is running, it is sucking in air.

No pictures but will update with one from my car.

Some say that it is for the fuel atomizer or some sort. I just wondering if all three inlets should be connected with their own hoses or just that 2 inlet.

You can see it when you are looking down from the brake servo area. Below the air filter housing.

Anyone can clarify that for me?

[WTA] Servicing adjustables

damone — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 11:00:11 +0800

One of my absorbers has some sounds coming out, suspecting that it is the seal.

So is there any recommended person or shop that can service the adjustables?

Help me out. 4g13/15 experts.

damone — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 14:27:50 +0800

Hey guys. Help me up abit here aite.

Recently my satria 1.3 SVDO has been very sluggish in terms of acceleration and pick up wise. In other words, it feels laggy and no instant throttle response.

I am listing down the list of modifications I have done to the car. BTW it got worse after the exhaust and LCP.
1)Performance drop in
2) 4-2-1 extractor from W.Heng.
3)1.7 inch outer diameter piping following original route, one mid bullet and a big tabung straight flow exhaust OEM style.
4) Engine oil 15w50 from Mobil, change every 5000k. Sparkies are normal OEM, plug cable OEM, I think are in good shape.
5) Undampened lightened crank pulley. (this is where I feel that it is sluggish the most). No instant throttle response.

I installed a vacuum meter, and I realize, that when I am idling, and when the AC compressor kicks in, the vacuum needle does not stay still, instead it kinda jumps back and forth. I can feel the engine slightly revving, like it is on high cams. So lets say if the AC kicks in, and the needle shows a reading of 15, then it will hover between 14 and 16 slightly and the engine revs a little, like I said, being on high cams.

I am not sure of what makes my car really sluggish also, unless someone can recommend me a good mechanic around Port Dickson, or Sunway and Subang area to diagnose my problem.

Thanks.

Increasing low end torque

damone — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 01:27:06 +0800

I have a Satria 1.3, using the asthmatic 4g13 engine. Just did my piping and changed from straight flow to s-flow muffler.

The piping is 1.6 inch in inner diameter. I expected some low end torque to come, instead, I lost it all as compared to when I was using a straight flow. And at that time, my piping is abit rojak also, after nenas use 2 inch to replace cat con, and the rest stock piping. FC was surprisingly good for a straight flow.

Unfortunately, now with my current setup, I lost both low and mid torque. Acceleration is sucky. Went to install a centre box today, only minimal difference.

So can anyone here please help me with suggestions on how to improve on low end power? Contemplating on forking out another RM300 for a new box type straight flow muffler. But I do like the quietness I have now.

Please do not suggest using open pod, as I have tried, and it is even worse. Somemore using SVDO system, Ill just settle for a free flow drop in filter.

Adjustable suspension advice

damone — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:34:20 +0800

Im driving a Satria 1.3. My standard abs for my rear konged out. So am looking for a replacement.

I have found a few like this

http://www.mudah.my/Absorber-Adjustable-ma...pan-4888744.htm

and this

http://www.mudah.my/Sustec-hi-low-adjustab...ira-3785882.htm

Please advice me on which is better or any other choices. My budget would be under RM1000 if possible.

[WTA] 4g13 Exhaust question

damone — Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:14:30 +0800

I have a question about the exhaust system. Currently running on 4-2-1, a swirl bullet and a straight flow muffler. Felt that it is a bit sluggish when on 3rd gear, low rpm. Does it afffect my low end torque if i remove the swirl bullet and replace it with just a pipe. Current and still on standard pipe size diameter. My car is a manual transmission, and running on 15 inches.Noise is not a problem, I just want more low end torque. Do help. Thanks.

[WTA] Alternator

damone — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:45:24 +0800

Where to buang out old alternator? Mine needs to be serviced, but I am using a new one already.

[WTA] Grounding terminal

damone — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:44:34 +0800

Where can you buy the grounding terminal that connects to the negative of the battery. Which shop actually sells them?

Brake feel

damone — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 08:14:13 +0800

I tried googling the info, but I kinda need peoples real experience. What is the difference between a hard feel brake pads and soft feel brake pads?

The advantages and disadvantages, and its effect on daily driving?

Thanks.

Every type of fuel saver

damone — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 02:17:01 +0800

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BMKtlY3GLw

See the amount of modification he has done on his g15.

Its like a mutant car already. This guy should be hired by giant car companies for his enduring spirit in saving gas.

Positive terminal to alternator

damone — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 23:40:43 +0800

My question would be, is it possible to ground the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery? Most of the time we are shown to ground the negative terminal to the alternator. Here is what I found on the net.

QUOTE

As many of you know, upgrading the "Big 3" wires in your engine compartment can lower the overall resistance of your entire electrical system. The effects of the lower resistance are typically:

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

So for those of you looking for a cheap and easy way to upgrade your system and help out your electrical system without adding a high output alternator or an aftermarket battery, this is the modification for you. If you have heavy dimming or are getting large voltage drops during loud bass hits, but you don't have the money to spend on a high output alternator or a battery, upgrading your vehicle's "Big 3" will usually help to reduce and sometimes even eliminate the problems. So without further ado, the "Big 3" wires are:

1) Battery negative to chassis
2) Alternator to battery positive
3) Chassis to engine

Now, I suppose it would help if I explained what each of these wires does, and to do that I would like to paraphrase an explanation by IMTfox from a while ago: Think of your vehicle's charging system as two different circuits, one consisting of your amplifier and your battery, and the other consisting of your alternator and your battery. The current in your electrical system flows from your positive battery terminal to your amp, from your amp's ground to the chassis, and then from the chassis back to the negative battery terminal. But how does it get to the positive terminal in the first place? That's where the alternator comes in. Current in the second circuit flows from your alternator's positive post to the battery's positive terminal, then from the battery's negative terminal to the chassis, and from the chassis back to the block, which happens to be the grounding point for your alternator.

So, from your battery, you have the power wire going to the power terminal on your amplifier and then your amplifier is grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. From here the current needs a way to get back to the negative battery terminal, and that way is through the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire. Upgrading this wire will "upgrade" the circuit between your battery and your amp by giving the current a larger path to flow through to get back to the battery.

Now, think of your alternator as the battery and your battery as the amp. From the positive post on your alternator, you have the second of the "Big 3," the alternator to battery positive wire supplying "power" to your battery. From there the battery, just like your amp, is grounded to the chassis through the wire mentioned in the previous paragraph. Again, the current needs a way to get from the chassis back to the alternator's "negative terminal" and that way is through the last of the "Big 3," the chassis to engine wire. Since your alternator is most likely mounted to your engine block using a metal or conductive mounting bracket, you can simply add your new wire from the chassis to one of the mounting posts for the alternator. Upgrading these two wires will "upgrade" the circuit between your alternator and your battery, again giving the current a larger path to flow through.

----------------------------------------------

Now that you understand exactly what the "Big 3" do, it's time to upgrade them to a larger gauge wire. You can use regular power wire from installing your car audio equipment, ring terminals, and crimping equipment just the same as you would for any other install. Let's start with the first of the "Big 3," the battery negative to chassis wire:

1) Disconnect your battery's negative terminal and get the stock wiring out of the way. You might have to cut it and crimp a new ring terminal onto it. I found it helpful to use aftermarket battery terminals with multiple ports on them also.

2) Scrape away the paint and drill the hole for your connection of the larger wire, or connect it to the stock grounding point. Either way you do it, make sure it is bare chassis metal, not covered by paint, and that the connection is as tight and secure as possible:

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-

3) Secure the new wire to the chassis and reconnect the vehicle's stock chassis ground, but DON'T reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal yet! You may find it helpful to cover the negative battery terminal with a cloth or other non-conductive material and just lay the terminal on it until you're ready to reconnect it later.

Moving on to the next of the "Big 3," let's upgrade the alternator to battery positive wire:

4) Locate the vehicle's alternator and look for a terminal post connected to it. The post shouldn't be hard to find. It should have only one wire connected to it, and it should lead to the positive terminal on the battery, possibly through the fuse box.

-

5) Disconnect the stock alternator to battery positive wire from the positive post and connect it to the post again with the new wire added.

6) Run the wire either through your fuse box if applicable or through a fuse. The fuse should be sized to match the max ampacity of your wire, not the output capability of your alternator. As you can see I just went through the fuse box, so my upgrade is probably not making as much of a difference as it could if it were fused externally, but my alternator is capable of withstanding the draws anyway so I'm not particularly worried about it. If I ever begin to see a problem w/ current draws, I will probably fuse the wire externally with a 300A or so fuse...

7) From the fuse, connect the wire to the positive terminal on your battery, again, leaving the stock wiring connected when you're done. The picture below shows the alternator to battery positive wire run from the alternator through my fuse box to the positive battery terminal.

-

Last, let's move to the chassis to engine wire: (Again, because your alternator is grounded to the block, all you need to do is find a bolt somewhere on the block and connect it to the chassis. The alternator's mounting bracket is usually a good place to find these bolts).

8) Again, either drill a new hole or connect this wire to the stock chassis ground. From the chassis ground, run the wire back to one of the mounting posts for the alternator (or to a bolt on the engine block).

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9) That's it! You're done. Reconnect the vehicle's negative battery terminal and check out the difference! Below is a shot of the "Big 3" upgraded in my car. The other wire you see coming out of the battery's positive terminal is obviously my amp's power wire.

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----------------------------------------------

Helpful hints:

1) Leave the stock wiring attached after you're done. Don't replace the stock wiring, add onto it. Current will take the path of least resistance anyway, so replacing the stock wire will only make more work for yourself.

2) When fusing your alternator to battery positive wire, fuse it toward the battery end of the wire. As IMTfox points out later in this thread, the battery will explode if it's overloaded, while the alternator will only burn out its regulator which won't cause much damage except to the alternator itself. Exploding batteries are no fun!

3) When crimping large gauge terminals for 1/0awg and sometimes even 4awg, a vice works well. Crimp one side of the terminal at a time, creating an overlapping edge. Put the boot around this and then wrap it in electrical tape if you want. the most secure connections will occur in this way.

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-

4) Lastly, prepare all your materials and tools BEFORE you are ready to upgrade. Know what you are doing before you start so you can be done as quick as possible. The majority of vehicles have computers that will reset after the battery is disconnected for a long time and they can cause older vehicles to do strange things if they reset.

Hopefully this clears up most of the questions you had about why we upgrade the "Big 3" and how it helps to stop dimming and other electrical problems.

Source: http://forums.carreview.com/showthread.php?t=678

Air filter suggestion

damone — Mon, 11 May 2009 22:27:32 +0800

Hey guys.

I am currently using a stainless steel open pod filter. Recently came across this new filter like this

Am wondering should I change to this filter, or should I go buy a cap ayam open pod at brothers.

Since when using the stainless steel filter, my throttle body becomes dirty faster.

Currently driving a 4g13 injection, so I do hope for some good opinions over here.

Anybody used that kind of filter as stated above?