Modding Corsair H50

rzs77 — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:59:44 +0800

INTRODUCTION

***DISCLAIMER
-I HOLD NO RESPONSIBILITIES TO THE DAMAGE CAUSED TO THE PRODUCT/YOURSELF UPON ATTEMPTING THIS MOD.
-THIS PIECE OF INFORMATION SERVES ONLY AS REFERENCE
-MODDING THE H50 WILL VOID THE WARRANTY
-THE RADIATOR WAS LOANED BY vladtheimpaler
-U GUYS CAN VISIT HIS WATER COOLING THREAD HERE FOR SOME REALLY AWSOME STUFF

Hey people, I've decided to mod my H50. After spending some time looking at the videos on youtube, reading up on various forums, and talking to VERY helpful people, I've proceeded into modding the H50. Hope you all can benefit from this little project. Before I start, let me thank vlad for loaning me a 240 radiator for this project, clawhammer, ezzy and a few others who have been very informative

OBJECTIVE
-To lower the temps of my current H50.

H50 SET UP:

- Original Tim (factory applied)
- 1x 120 radiator (default)
- 1x Corsair Default fan (pull)
- 1x Zalman Blue LED (push)
- 1x Fan Shroud

fan (push) --> shroud --> radiator --> fan (pull)

MY RIG:

Proc: AMD 965BE C3 Stepping STOCK VOLTAGE
Mobo: MSI 790GX-G65
GPU: Sapphire Toxic 4870
Rams: 2x 2GB Corsair 1333Mhz

With those setups and the H50 layout, I managed to get temps (Malaysian weather and 1 ceiling fan as ambient temp) of:

-Afternoon-->Evening (1pm-7pm) ~ 42c IDLE 58c LOAD

-Late nights-->Early morning (1am-6am) ~38 IDLE 53 LOAD

To improve those numbers, I've decided to mod the H50.

NEW COMPONENTS

- 1x EK Coolstream RAD XT 240 (LOANED BY VLAD )
- 1M 1/4" ID clear tubing (bought from niclasteoh - RM5 + RM5 for postage)
- 1x Swiftech MCRES Micro Revision 2 (bought from clawhammer - RM110 including 2x 1/4" barbs)
- 1x Tuniq TX2 thermalpaste (bought from lingloong - RM16)

MODDING

1st I unscrewed the 2 screws located below:

After doing so, I now have access to the 2 tubes at the pump/block.

There will be a washer screwed on, in front of the tubes. Unscrew it it and keep it somewhere safe. After this you'll want to go to the toilet or have a bucket ready. Just pull gently at the tubes and they should come off, be prepared to catch the water.

In the image above, i have completely disassembled the tubes from the pump/block. However, i still need the barbs which are still connected inside the tube. Therefore I have to cut the sides of the tube.

***For those of you who want to reuse the 120 rad, you'll have to cut down the side of the tube at the rad part too, to expose the barb to insert new tubing. The barbs on that part is metal and does not come off.

It took quite a while for me to cut the barbs out from the tube since all i had was kitchen knife
anyway, 1 hour and 5 skin cuts later,

I've managed to cut them free. Ready to be put on with new tubing

DAY 2

LAPPING

While waiting for the barbs, I decided to go to the DIY store near my place and get some sand paper to lap my H50 and processor.

600, 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit.

Wish the shop had 2500 or something higher than 2000

Anyway, here's what they look like after lapping

Processor

H50

I also asked the tauke at the shop to drill holes for my reservoir.

Am using a stacker 832 case. So the back panel is a blessing

Stay tuned for more.

wondering whether my psu is enough? do comment.

rzs77 — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 23:42:40 +0800

what about my rig

CPU : AMD 965BE 140W with CM 212+
MOBO : MSI 790GX
GPU : ATI 4870
1 X DVD Writer --> Planning to buy a Blueray
1 X HDD --> Planning to buy 1 more HDD

Currently using Enermax EG465P-VE (460W, True power)

I'm wondering whether my psu is enough? do comment.

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Modding Corsair H50

wondering whether my psu is enough? do comment.