XTREME COOLING: Phase Change

amok — Fri, 01 Jul 2005 12:52:58 +0800

Well, the title says it all , yup i'm into phase cooling and hope to drag along a few of you guys with me .

I've done watercooling and watercooling + pelt but still i've got that craving for more extreme temps to toy with, it's either DI/LN or refrigeration/phase change.. since i'm into a more long term usage instead of benchies, then the choice is clear.. phase change here i come.

First and foremost thanks a lot to my sifu Bulkhy ( for a start i'm using his xillix till i diy my own multi phase) and our mod PCcrazy whose been nothing but help and guide me to come out with this thread. There are already some forumers who'd done phase cooling please share your experience here. TQ. Let's make this thread at par with those overseas thread (expecially those singaporean VR-Zone one.. even though we're far from it but we're workin on it).

O.K enough of this muchy and goey ghey crap lets get down to business.

PHASE CHANGE / REFRIGERATION
The Main Components and how duh it works (sorry I won't go into details till the "history of refrigeration")

Please refer to the "hand made" diagram below whilst i'll explain.

1. Capillary Tube/Line

(And you guys thought i'm gonna start with the compressor hehehehe.. ) The main purpose of the line is causing a pressure difference. A supply of liquid refrigerant enters the cap line ; this liquid is then forced to travel through a very thin piece of tubing (capillary tube/metering device). The liquid exits the line and boils off into a vapour as it does so it absorbs heat!
*Note: The phase of the refrigerant has changed, from liquid to gas, thus the name 'phase change'.

2. Evaporator

Car Evaporator

Chilly1 Evaporator (cause Xillix's evap using the same design)
The caps line now sprays tiny droplets of refrigerant into the evaporator. The evaporator is the component that removes the heat from the evap's head (that touches the proc).The Evaporator is the equivelent to the block on a H2O system. This is also where the Phase-Change occurs. Liquid refrigerant makes it's way to a larger volume of space and changes it's phase from a liquid to a vapor, or boils off.

XTREME COOLING: Pelt + Watercooling

amok — Fri, 11 Mar 2005 23:05:53 +0800

EDIT: Ok, since I've gotten a lot of questions regarding pelting the rig, before insulating and instaling a pelt, please read this Choosing the Right Pelt Guide first o.k. END EDIT

Even though there are varios methods of insulating and instaling a pelt to you rig form international sites, I still having trouble in getting one to set in my rig especially when using/finding material/tools that are refered to at those mat salleh site . So after some painstaking head banging thought, i'll try this method of insulating and installing a pelt to my existing w/c rig (an op spiral w/c set) using materials there are readlily available in Malaysia.

Objective 1: Insulating the Muthaboard.

The Mobo:

My Abit AN-7 vanilla (without any mod).

The tools:
1. Masking tape = RM 2.50 per roll
2. Old News Paper = f.o.c.
3. CRC Plasticote 80 with UV reactive (availabe at any electronic part shop) or some would prefer the urethene spray. (i'll show you later why i choose CRC Plasticote 80) = RM25.00

Cost = RM 27.50

The Steps:

1. Covering anything which has exposed metal with the masking tape. Approx time taken = 15 minutes.

2. Lay the board on a piece of Surat khabar lama on a flat surface. And spray with CRC Plasticote 80 as per instruction of the can. Here I used 3 layers of coat, with 1/2 hours interval. Approx time taken = 1 1/2 hrs. (be very generous when spraying on and around the slocket are and center slug)

3. O.k. now i'll show you why i choose CRC Plasticote 80 against the urethene spray.

see.. it's UV reactive. Thus i can confirm full coverage by bathing the board with uv light.

4. Now after all is set and fixed(dried) flip the board and start the work on the back side. and confirm the corverage.

continued....

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XTREME COOLING: Phase Change

XTREME COOLING: Pelt + Watercooling