Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by dreggy

(WTS) Samsung S4

dreggy — Mon, 11 Jun 2018 16:37:06 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Samsung S4 White Complete with Box]

[b]Package includes:[Box plus earphones plus sun global and original battery]

[b]Price:[RM250]

[b]Warranty:[1 day for peace of mind]

[b]Dealing method:[COD/Postage]

[b]Location:[KLCC area daytime, Klang night and weekends]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm / 0149308761]
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[b]Item(s) conditions:[fair with the chrome surround peeling at 2 corners, but aside from that perfect, screen is scratch free thanks to tempered glass from day one]

[b]Picture:[soon]

[b]Reason for sale:[bored, change phone funding]

(WTS) Motorcycles Parts

dreggy — Wed, 31 May 2017 09:50:53 +0800

Many Motorcycles parts Available for sale. The bikes are all actually complete and usable after some washing and servicing but cannot be used on the road as no road tax and grants.

Pls offer a price for a part of whole bike if interested.

Location KL Setapak.

Pictures below:-

(WTS)HP Monitor W2072A

dreggy — Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:43:57 +0800

Item(s): HP Monitor W2072A

Package includes: Monitor, Power Chord,VGA cable

Price:SOLD to bro kuyut. Thanks

Warranty:- 2 days

Dealing method: COD only

Location of seller:KL/PJ/Seremban(arrange first)

Contact method/details:PM

Age of item:3.5 years

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Item(s) conditions: Working perfectly fine, no dead pixels, this was used mainly for mild video editing and photo shopping, never stressed out for gaming or anything.

Picture:Uploaded

Reason for sale:Upgraded to bigger size

Spec of the monitor ya: http://www.cnet.com/products/hp-w2072a/specs/

(WTS)Ipad Mini 4

dreggy — Wed, 01 Mar 2017 09:05:38 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Ipad Mini 4]

[b]Package includes:[everything in box, i havent even opened the cling plastic]

[b]Price:[SOLD]

[b]Warranty:[brand new so the 1 year i think?]

[b]Dealing method:[COD/Postage]

[b]Location of seller:[KL (setapak, GHKL)]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm, whatsapp 0149308761]

[b]Age of item:[brand new]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[perfect]

[b]Picture:[attached]

[b]Reason for sale:[not an Apple fan and i really dont know what to do with an Ipad]

(WTS) Acer Iconia A501

dreggy — Sat, 18 Feb 2017 18:06:48 +0800

Item(s):[Acer Iconia A501]

[b]Package includes:[Charger]

[b]Price:[sold]

[b]Warranty:[Personal 1 week]

[b]Dealing method:[COD or Postage, COD prefered]

[b]Location of seller:[KL,PJ]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm,whatsapp 0149308761]

[b]Age of item:[few years]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[90%]

[b]Picture:

[b]Reason for sale:[Funding for a windows tablet]

Working in perfect order, sim connectivity works great and the screen has been maintained meticulously by me and is 100% scratch free. Love the full size usb capability. The ONLY reason i m letting it go is to fund myself a windows tablet as i need Windows for work. I m open to a swap with a 10 inch windows tablet also.

(WTS) Sonic Gear SonicArray 1000i

dreggy — Fri, 27 Jun 2014 12:17:41 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Sonic Gear Sonic Array 1000i]

[b]Package includes:[All item in box, brand new]

[b]Price:[RM200]

[b]Warranty:[7 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or postage buyer bears]

[b]Location of seller:[KL,PJ,Klang]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm]

[b]Age of item:[brand new ]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[brand new]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=4031399][attachmentid=4031400][attachmentid=4031401]]

[b]Reason for sale:[Clearance of old stock brand new radio clock speaker array ipod dock system. I have one which i use personally connected to my astro and wall mounted (the kit is all included) it is awesome. sound is loud and clear and it looks so classy above the flat screen tv no need some big ugly speakers around. it also can serve as a radio, alarm and ipod dock for iphone,ipod touch 4 and below( iphone 5 just need buy the adapter from any phone accessory shop) the remote is solid metal the build quality is fantastic and it should be cause this used to retails for RM600+, left few stock huryy and get your before sold out ]

Ps: Will throw in a stand alone woofer for an additional RM 30. https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3271678

(wts) Sonic Gear Sonic Array Woofer Sw1

dreggy — Fri, 27 Jun 2014 12:15:20 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Sonic Gear Sonic Array Woofer SW1]

[b]Package includes:[Full set in box]

[b]Price:[RM50]

[b]Warranty:[7 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or postage ]

[b]Location of seller:[KL,PJ,Klang]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm]

[b]Age of item:[band new ]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[brand new]

[b]Picture:[]

[b]Reason for sale:[clearance of old stock this stand alone woofer is a perfect compliment to audiophiles needing that additional bass. ]

(WTS) Sonic Gear SonicSpace DA-220ip

dreggy — Fri, 27 Jun 2014 11:45:55 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Sonic Gear SonicSpace DA-220ip]

[b]Package includes:[Full set with box, brand new]

[b]Price:[RM160]

[b]Warranty:[7 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or postage]

[b]Location of seller:[KL, PJ, Klang]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm ]

[b]Age of item:[Brand New]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[NEW]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=4031408][attachmentid=4031410]]

[b]Reason for sale:[This is brand new stock which is being cleared and hence the much reduced price. it usually retails for Rm400+ . It is an alarm clock radio which also receives files from usb and sd memory card and it is a dock for iphone 4(iphone 5 need to buy the adapter in any phone shop) perfect one stop device to put at your home bed or office table. come get it while stocks still last.]

(WTS) DDR2 Ram and Sata 2 hard disk

dreggy — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 20:56:10 +0800

[b]Item(s):[memory sticks and hard disk]

[b]Package includes:[items above]

[b]Price:[offer me]

[b]Warranty:[3 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or buyer bear postage]

[b]Location of seller:[klang,pj,kl, seremban can discuss]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm here]

[b]Age of item:[a few years]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[excellent working condition]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=3910355][attachmentid=3910356][attachmentid=3910357]]

[b]Reason for sale:[need money to pay summons ]

(WTS) Gigabyte Nvidia 9400GT

dreggy — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 20:51:15 +0800

[b]Item(s):[card]

[b]Package includes:[just card]

[b]Price:[offer me]

[b]Warranty:[3 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or buyer bear postage]

[b]Location of seller:[klang,pj,kl, seremban can discuss]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm here]

[b]Age of item:[3 years]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[excellent working condition]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=3910352][attachmentid=3910354]]

[b]Reason for sale:[need money to pay summons ]

(wts) MicroATX Motherboard + Core 2 Duo E2200

dreggy — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 20:44:28 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Motherboard plus processor]

[b]Package includes:[box, manual, back plate for motherboard]

[b]Price:[offer me]

[b]Warranty:[3 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod or buyer bear postage]

[b]Location of seller:[klang,pj,kl, seremban can discuss]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm here]

[b]Age of item:[a few years]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[excellent working condition]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=3910345][attachmentid=3910347][attachmentid=3910348][attachmentid=3910349]]

[b]Reason for sale:[need money to pay summons ]

(WTS) Cooler Master PSU

dreggy — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 17:31:09 +0800

[b]Price:[offer me]

[b]Warranty:[3 days]

[b]Dealing method:[cod best, postage buyer bear]

[b]Location of seller:[klang,pj,kl, Seremban can discuss]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm here]

[b]Age of item:[a few years]

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[b]Item(s) conditions:[working well ]

[b]Picture:[[attachmentid=3910084]]

[b]Reason for sale:[Need cash urgently to settle summons ]

(WTS/WTT) Ipad 4 Wifi 16GB

dreggy — Tue, 28 Jan 2014 09:41:00 +0800

sold.

(WTS) Acer Aspire 4535

dreggy — Sun, 29 Dec 2013 19:22:15 +0800

[b]Item(s):[Acer Aspire 4535]

[b]Package includes:[Laptop and parts]

[b]Price:[offer me]

[b]Dealing method:[COD/Postage]

[b]Location of seller:[PJ,KL,Klang]

[b]Contact method/details:[pm ]

[b]Age of item:[4 years]

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I have a Acer Aspire 4535 for sale. The laptop is faulty but with no time to repair it i decided to just sell it for parts. It still powers just does t switch on. Everything else works perfectly including screen and wifi card dvd drive etc etc. So you can even buy it and fix it if u wan. Selling cheap . Complete with 2 gb ram but no hard disk( used hard disk as external).

[attachmentid=3790881][attachmentid=3790882][attachmentid=3790883][attachmentid=3790884][attachmentid=3790885][attachmentid=3790886][attachmentid=3790887]

Car paint touch up and then paint protection

dreggy — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 12:52:51 +0800

Need all sifus help, i ve searched the forum but nothing informative to help me . MY car was recently painted and it s been attacked by itchy hand and the useless lack of enforcements on our highways. The paints been keyed badly at one side and also some moron has grazed out the paint at the other side of my car. An due to the nature of my job i travel up and down the North South high way often and my bonnet and front of the car is littered with impacts from the sand and dirt and what not falling of those stupid lorries travelling on the highway .

I need to know where a good professional place to do paint work touch up would be and then i would like t apply a proper hard wearing scratch and impact resistive coating to my car. I dont mind paying if the product can stop all this unnecessary heartache.

Than you in advance sifus.

Fuel Savers( Air Bleeders + magnets)

dreggy — Sat, 03 Dec 2011 23:53:04 +0800

I searched for a similar topic but i could t find one so i decided to open one. I noticed a lot of people buying the so called fuel saving devices from the automotive garage section. I think it s not right to take advantage of so many people s ignorance. so i just wanted to share an article.

Air bleeds into the inlet manifold (petrol engines only)
Devices of this type include: Ecotek*, Khaos, Powerjet USA, Micro-Compressor

From around the early 70s, people have claimed miraculous benefits from devices that bleed air into the intake manifold. The majority of "fuel saving devices" on the market today fall into this catagory.

Usually the device in question fits into a hose such as the brake servo or the crankcase breather, and allows air from the atmosphere to enter the inlet manifold without passing the through the throttle, air meter (where fitted) or carburettor (where fitted). Others require an additional drilling, but the effect is the same:

Many of these devices also claim to improve atomisation or increase turbulence, but this page will just consider the effect on the fuel / air mixture.

The ratio of air to fuel is a critical factor in petrol combustion. The theoretically ideal mixture is around 14.5 parts of air to 1 of fuel. This is known as the stoichiometric ratio. Variations from this are characterised by the term lambda, where lambda less than 1 means a rich micture (excess fuel), and lambda greater than 1 means a lean mixture (excess air).

It is well known that an engine runs most smoothly at around lambda 0.9 (10% excess fuel). This gives the most reliable ignition and the fastest burn. The excess fuel is basically wasted; emissions of unburnt hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) are high, and fuel consumption is around 10% higher than it need be. But up until the early 1970s, when fuel was cheap and emission limits were very lax, this was acceptable since it gave good engine smoothness.

It was against this background that air-bleed "fuel saving devices" were developed. The engine management system measures the air mass flow into the engine via the air meter, divides by the required air:fuel ratio, and injects this much fuel (very simply put). (A carburettor performs a similar operation mechanically). But the air entering the engine via the "fuel saving device" isn't measured by the air meter, and so is not included in the fuel calculation. Hence if 10% of the engine's air enters through the device, the engine will run 10% leaner. When the engine has been set to run at lambda 0.9, the result is a shift to lambda 1, with a reduction in both fuel consumption and emissions. Back in the early 1970s, these devices really could have an effect (although simply adjusting the carburettor's mixture control screw would have much the same benefit).

On today's catalysed vehicles (anything sold in Europe after 1993, excluding certain modified or "chipped" cars), the situation is totally different, for two reasons.

The first reason is the presence of the lambda sensor in the exhaust system. For good operation of the catalyst (see below), the engine is set to run at lambda 1 at all times other than cold start and full load (in other words, for 99% of the engine's operation). Since the tolerance on injectors and air meter might be as much as 5%, a lambda sensor is fitted in the exhaust to monitor the mixture. This sensor gives a very precise measure of lambda; the engine management system adds or removes a small amount of fuel to keep the engine at exactly lambda 1. So the air bleed through the "fuel saving device" results in a lean mixture, but the lambda sensor will "see" this and the EMS will put extra fuel in to compensate. Hence the mixture stays at lambda 1 - the "fuel saving device" has no effect at all.

On some vehicles, the fuel economy indicator on the trip computer does not take into account the extra fuel added as a result of the lambda sensor signal. These vehicles will appear to show a fuel consumption improvement, but there will not be any real saving at the pump.

Additionally, many modern vehicles do not use an air meter, but rather a manifold pressure sensor (as shown in the diagram). Particularly on engines without variable cam control, manifold pressure is a good indicator of air flow rate and so can do the same job as the air meter. In this case the air bleed through the "fuel saving device" does nothing at all, since the manifold pressure sensor simply measures the air in the inlet manifold. It neither knows nor cares whether this air has come in via the throttle or an air bleed.

The second reason is the operation of the catalytic converter. This miraculous device is largely responsible for the significant improvements in urban air quality seen in recent years, by converting around 95% of toxic pollutants to relatively harmless substances. (By the way, claims that the catalyst does not start working until the car has been driven five miles or more are entirely wrong. The standard European emissions test is less than seven miles, and the catalyst is working for the vast majority of this. On the most recent cars, the catalyst is active within a minute of starting the engine.)

The three "regulated pollutants" are unburnt hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx). All three are serious human health hazards. NOx is nitrogen with added oxygen; HC and CO represent incomplete combustion. What the catalyst does is to remove the oxygen from the NOx and give it to the HC and CO. The result is plain nitrogen, carbon dioxide and water, all of which are essentially harmless. But to work, the lambda value must be just right. If the mixture is too rich then the oxygen in the NOx is not enough to give to the HC and CO, so they pass through unconverted. If the mixture is too lean then the "spare" oxygen is given to the HC and CO, and the NOx passes through unconverted. The overall effect of lambda on post-catalyst emissions is like this:

There is a very narrow "window" between lambda 0.99 and lambda 1.00 where all three pollutants are effectively cleaned up. It is precisely because the engine must operate in this "window" that modern engines are fitted with lambda sensors.

Now, under most circumstances the lambda sensor will correct for any fuelling deviations introduced by the "fuel saving device". But the sensor has limited "authority" - it can only add up to about 10 - 15% additional fuel, since otherwise a faulty sensor could result in an extremely rich mixture, leading to engine problems. If the deviation exceeds this limit, then the lambda sensor can no longer compensate and a lean mixture is the result. So the result of fitting one of these devices may be a lambda around 1.05 - 1.10. This will give a small improvement in fuel consumption (about 2 - 5%) and, as the graph above shows, reductions in HC and CO. This sort of result is often shown by makers of such devices as "proof" of emissions reduction. However, the NOx emissions will increase massively - perhaps 20 times - as the catalyst can no longer clean them up. Since NOx is not usually measured by workshop test equipment, this is not picked up. The overall effect is a very large increase in toxic pollutants, which does not fit the "green" claims of such devices.

(On a vehicle without a catalyst, leaning the mixture will greatly reduce CO and significantly increase NOx. HC may go up or down, depending on the engine and the test conditions.)

Ever-stricter On-Board Diagnostics (OBD) requirements mean that modern vehicles must detect lambda deviations of this sort and illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) / Check Engine Light (CEL). MIL illumination when fitting one of these devices is quite common.

There is sometimes talk that devices of this sort give an economy improvement by leaning the mixture under overrun conditions (ie when you lift off the throttle at high speed). But modern engines almost always cut the fuel completely under these conditions, so the amount of air in the inlet manifold makes no difference at all to the fuel used!

Another occasional claim is that the devices mostly work under transient conditions. When you press or lift off the accelerator, there is a sudden change in air flow into the engine. Supposedly the engine management system reacts too slowly to this change and injects the wrong amount of fuel, leading to incorrect air/fuel ratio in the cylinder (and consequent wasted fuel, high emissions, etc). The claim is that the air bleed device in some way alters the air and/or fuel flow, thus maintaining the correct mixture.

On the crude management systems of 15 or 20 years ago, there may have been some truth in this. But modern ECUs (which, as the car industry frequently points out, have "more computing power than the Apollo moon lander") contain very sophisticated air flow models to all but eliminate this effect. By monitoring the position and rate of movement of the throttle blade, in addition to the "main" air flow measurement from the air meter or manifold pressure sensor, the ECU can predict the changing air flow into the engine and inject the correct amount of fuel "in advance". The latest drive-by-wire systems even take into account the target position of the throttle blade, which is a few milliseconds ahead of the actual position.

Thanks to this sophistication, the air/fuel ratio is kept substantially correct even under transient conditions on modern petrol cars. If it were not, the resulting misfire and/or emissions spike would be unacceptable to the authorities and the car would not meet today's stringent emissions regulations. Adding additional, "unknown" air is likely to make matters worse rather than better.

Does this mean that if you have a car without a catalyst and lambda sensor - either because it is old, or because you live in a country where emissions legislation does not demand it - then an air-bleed fuel "saving" device could help? Well, if your engine is running rich, then an air bleed will reduce CO emissions and probably slightly improve fuel economy. But 99 times out of 100 you could get the same benefit by simply adjusting the carburettor! If your car is running too rich because something is worn or out of adjustment, the right answer is to fix / adjust it, not bolt on an extra device to work round the problem!

These devices often also claim to increase engine power. This is a completely implausible claim, for a very simple physical reason: when the accelerator pedal is fully pressed, the throttle is wide open, and there is essentially no manifold vacuum. There is a very large opening from atmosphere into the manifold, and so the pressure in the inlet manifold is the same as atmospheric pressure. Hence no air will pass through the device, and so it can't have any effect on engine operation. You will search long and hard for scientific performance measures showing power improvements from one of these devices. Even more astonishingly, people with turbocharged cars claim power increases. In a turbo engine, the manifold pressure is above atmospheric at full throttle, so any air flow through the "fuel saving device" is out of the manifold rather than into it!

There is, admittedly, one way in which a "fuel saving device" of this type can give apparently better performance. By leaking air into the engine, it has the same effect as stopping the throttle closing fully. This means that the engine RPM drops more slowly when the accelerator pedal is released. During a gearchange, for instance, this means the engine picks up more quickly when the pedal is pressed again. With a turbocharged engine, the turbo will tend to keep spinning longer and so again the effect is a quicker pickup. If you like this kind of characteristic (and many people don't, since there is much less engine braking) then that's fair enough. But it isn't in any way the same thing as a real increase in power, and any air bleed device that claims a power increase is just not being honest. Also note that some particularly sophisticated engine management systems will gradually "learn" this air flow deviation and simply close the throttle blade further to compensate.

As an aside, many people worry that a device of this sort may cause engine damage through overheating. It is quite true that the exhaust gas temperature is at its highest at around lambda = 1.1, and most modern engines run significantly rich of stoichiometry at full load to protect exhaust valves, catalysts and turbochargers. Typically a naturally aspirated engine may run at about lambda 0.8 - 0.9, while a highly turbocharged engine could be as rich as lambda 0.65. Enleaning such an engine at high load is almost certain to cause severe damage. However, since the air-bleed devices are almost always driven by manifold vacuum, the enleanment automatically reduces to essentially zero at full load and it is highly unlikely that overheating damage would occur. At part load, where the devices are active, exhaust temperatures are nearly always well within safe limits anyway.

A genuine source of risk lies in the fact that many (though not all) such devices introduce unfiltered air into the engine. Although the amounts of air are small, over many years this might be equivalent to running the engine for a week or two with no air filter. This allows dust and other small particles into the engine, which could potentially cause damage.

Finally, and very seriously, a device of this sort can indeed make your car much faster. A typical recommended fitting location is in the brake servo hose (it carries manifold vacuum to the brake servo). If the device isn't fitted properly, or breaks in operation, this hose can become open to atmosphere. At this point all brake servo assistance is lost, and it will become very difficult to stop the car. You have been warned!

http://www.fuelsaving.info/air_bleed.htm

In Summary , air bleeders do not help your car or FC in anyway. please understand this before forking over valuable money for such so called miraculous devices.

The Magnetic fuel saver devices that clamp onto your fuel line is also nonsense for two important reasons,

1. the device is too short, and the magnet not strong enough( too strong a magnet and it will probably stick to your car engine block and cause some problems by heating up and possibly exploding)

2. the high formulated fuel (which companies spend millions to dewsign and formulate) are not likely affected by a fractional second of exposure to a magnet.

SO please do some research before forking over valuable money. I hope this thread will benefit everyone and their wallets.

PS: the best fuel saver is you yourself, drive smoothly with a light foot on the accelerator and your probably save tons of fuel.

need help with my wira

dreggy — Mon, 05 Apr 2010 09:36:23 +0800

i need some advice regarding my wira 1994 manual carby 1.5. the car is not running smoothly and when i press the accelerator the car sometimes just loses power as if the engine is gonna die of. i thought the problem was the old solenoid switch in the carburetor but then i just spent rm1300 on a brand spanking new carb but the problem persists. the rpm keeps dipping suddenly suddenly. i so frustrated and my FC is gone up. pls help.

help needed

dreggy — Sun, 04 Oct 2009 19:05:44 +0800

guys i have a amd sempron powered aspire 3000. i wan to upgrade the cpu .can any of you guys tell me where i can find a ml or mt series amd turion proc?or maybe you guys have a spare?