Law India hinakan agama Islam?

gtghost — Fri, 03 Jan 2020 09:38:35 +0800

'Kenyataan saya, milik saya' - Dr Mahathir tidak peduli jika India anggap beliau salah. Jumaat lalu, Tun Mahathir mengkritikkan Akta Pindaan Kewarganegaraan India yg diskriminasi terhadap muslim.

Apa pandangan anda mengenai isu ini, bil akan memberi manfaat kepada India tak?

Things to consider before buying an imported car

gtghost — Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:24:14 +0800

Dear all,

Just to inform some facts before you buy imported cars, or specifically sports cars. Do a bit of judgement and calculations before even considering one.

1. Remember you are paying for the AP, which cost between 20k-100k of the inflated car price.Indirectly help AP kings, they should treat you teh tarik, however this is not an issue for the car enthusiats (did i spell it correctly)

2. Imported New. Imported new cars are directly imported from the origin manufactured countries. These cars are never driven on the road before by one except maybe transporter. An example would be the new FD2 Honda Civic Type-R direct from Japan. Or a rich owner order it to be shipped here and pay all the tax and duties himself with an AP. No AP, no import.

3. Grey Import. Grey importer refers to dealers which imports car that is not a franchise holder of the car model and does not carry manufacturer warranty. For example, Toyota Caldina, which UMW Toyota will not service nor provide parts for the car. Grey Import does not provide warranty for the cars sold usually with the exception of a few big ones like Naza. Grey import imports car from brand new to reconditioned.

4. Re-conditioned/Refurbished/Re-whatever. Re-conditioned/Refurbished/Re-whatever cars is a term where used cars from countries of origin are brought into malaysia, get clean up from the messy state if there is any (for example a grade C or D car) where the seats cushion are torn, engine bays are dirty, paints chipped off and they clean up the whole car. Re-wrap cushions, cleaning of engine bay etc. Some dealers do not even bother to re-condition it and just sell as it is. After reconditioning the car, it is now ready to be sold as unregistered cars.

5. Unregistered cars. Unregistered means the car is not registered yet in Malaysia, there is no owners yet in Malaysia for that car. Intrest rates is between 2.3%-3%. However, unregistered is not NEW. The car has been used or maybe abused in the original country before reaching Malaysia, and most of the dealers will adjust the mileage show in the car unless they have the original documents from the country it originates from. Usually like countries from Japan, they have a document stating the mileage before it leaves the Japan shore.

6. Used cars. Used means the car has been registered in Malaysia with 1 or more owners. Subject to further mileage and further abuse. Intrest rates is between 3-4% or more depending on the year.

7. Differenciating a unregistred car and used. Usually the unregistered ones are year 2003 and above, no less because if I am not mistaken, the law does not allow cars older than 5 years old to be imported. Example like used ones are 00/03. It means that the car is manufactured in year 2000 and it was registered in 2003 in malaysia. There maybe more than 1 owners so you will need to ask the owner of the car how many owners are there previously in Malaysia and also the country of origin. Unregistered cars are usually advertised as 03 unreg, Unregistered 05, etc with the words unregistered, or simple term UNREG.

8. Resale value. Banks refer your value of the car by the year of make, not the year of your registration in malaysia. This serverly impacts your resale value of the car, especially sports car. For example, you bought a unregistered 03 car, hence you are the 1st owner. This post is year 2008, so your car will be registered as 03/08. And remember, your car is considered as a 5 year old car if the manufacture date is 2003 from the bank point of view.

So you drive it for 7 years (finish installment), your car is now 12 years old. Bank will still provide loan albeit a bit high on the intrest, maybe around 5% or more, but the value of the car maybe will hover around 40-50K depending on the market and demand. If you take on a 9 year old, the car is 14 years old, may not qualify for bank loan and you will need to find a cash buyer. Cash buyers usually mark down your car price 10% or more due to small amount of potential buyers.

For example, if you bought the car a car lets say 130k, tommorrow if you sell it, it is worth 110k if you trade in to a car dealer. Instant 20k vanished. Why? Because your car is now a 2nd hand car and the interest is higher. So if you sell it as 10k less, there will still be no buyers because they would prefer unregistered ones because of the low interest.

9. Do your homework. Every sports car depreciates easily from 15k-60k per year depending on what is the value of the car. Remember to check if you are able to absorb the depreciation and the cost of running the car, which includes road tax, petrol, maintenance on top of it.

10. Grading. Most of the cars that leave the country of origin has a grading, like Japan. Japan class A cars are said to be in the best conditioned cars followed by standard alphabetical order like B,C,D.

Tips and advices.

Once you consider to buy a sports car, here are a few advices for you.

1. Do not buy - cars which have no soild proof of milages, which are not clean when the seller/dealer does not even bother to clean them up, or looks too good to be true. Look for grade A cars. If seller does not have that, probably it is around B,C or D.

2. Warranty - Some car sellers provide warranty, such as Naza. They provide 1 year warranty on your recondition cars albeit a bit higher price. Some does not, which you may need to spend a little more or a much lot more if there is something wrong with the car, especially the internals. The internals I am referring to is the engine internals, which cannot be seen with the naked eye. Remember, sports car are sporty. Usually comes with turbo or high revving, these cars are prone to abuse. Better be safe than sorry. It is also extra wise to have extra cash in hand for emergency repairs.

If the car is bought from support of local manufacturer, like Honda, BMW, etc, usually 1-3 year warranty are given. Grey imports does not, with a few exception, refer to No.3 above.

3. Research - Do some research on the sports cars that you want to buy. If you are not savvy and does not know what is a ball bearing turbo, it is wise to ask a junkie friend/mechanic to go along with you. Also, I have noticed that some of the dealers are faking the year of manufacture. Be very sure that the car is manufactured the year that the dealer is claiming. Some of the models sold have been facelifted, but they are selling the old models by renewing the AP year. For example, the car is 2003. Law says it cannot sell more than 5 years old, by changing into another AP or recycle it, the car suddenly becomes 2004 unregistered.

Some of the cars have facelift version, like the DC5 Integra type R. Year 2003 and below, the bumpers have the round shape below the headlights, but after the facelift on 2004, it is now flat. If you see the cars still appearing next year, that means it is a year 2003 or below car but renewed with a 2004 or recycled AP. Buyers who are not savvy, just bought it without knowing.

4. Parts - Often, parts can be obtained from direct manufacturer of the car make, but it cost a bomb to get them.

Another cheaper solution is to find half-cuts or the parts itself in chop-shop or known as kedai potong. However, these parts offer no warranty and often does not last as long as the original items. Another method is also to source from performance shops which supplies performance parts. For the same price or a bit higher, you can change it to performance items.

The last solution if there is no parts at all in our country, you might resort to ordering online with a heavy shipping cost from the US or other countries.

5. Affordability - Consider all of the cost above before your first purchase. Know what you can afford or what you cannot afford before buying. Always make sure that you do not need to top up the bank just in case you need to sell your car in case of any financial difficulties.

Let me do a basic calculation for you based for example, a Toyota Celica year 2003. Just a rough calcualtion.

Car price - RM138,000.
Downpayment - RM38,000
Bank loan - RM100,000 over 7 years at lets say 2.3-2.5% - RM1400++ per month.
Petrol - RM400 or more perhaps.
Insurance - 1k+ depending on NCB. Let's say 1,500.
Roadtax - RM300+ because it's 1.8. Not sure 1.8 is how much already.
Repair - Let's set it a 5k a year just in case.
Depreciation estimated - RM10-20k a year. First year depreciation confirmed at 30k+, as car dealer is buying at 100k or less, unless you manage to find a direct buyer which they may offer at RM110k or more.

Total estimated cost = Monthly installment + Petrol + (Insurance /12 months) + (Roadtax/12) + (Repair/12)
Total estimated cost to own a RM138,000 sports car a month is around = 2k+ for a 138,000 car.

Total cost if you sell your car first year = RM38,000 gone if you sell at RM100,000 + 24k for running it on the road, which is you lost a total of 52k.

6. Willing buyer, willing seller - Always remember this term. Only if there is demand, there will be supply. I have noticed a lot of sellers are selling at the original cost or less a bit than the cost they bought, because they are not willing go lower. Why you may ask, is simply based on the calculations above. If you do not pay a high downpayment for the car, if you would to sell it maybe 2-3 years later, you will have to top up the bank. So the sellers die die must sell at that price. But buyers do not want to buy at the price. What happens? No sale. As a buyer, always judge whether the car is worth your money. That is why affordability is very important.

7. OK, I WANNA BUY! - Finally, everything is settled and you want to buy the car!. Read the tips below:

a. If you are buying from the direct owner, get the owner to state the specs and goodies that comes along with the car that was advertised. For example, boost meter, VAFC, SAFC, exhaust system, wastegates bla bla bla. If you do know what are these, ASK. Ask him to show if it is possible. Draft it in black or white or e-mail to confirm the specs that he is selling.

b. Get your money ready. No seller likes to waste his time waiting for you. If possible, provide a deposit as a sign of interst. Agree the selling price on the spot, sign black and white and apply for the loan. Best is that you pay cash, on the spot, sign all documents and drive the car away.

c. Always agree on the price. Some buyers would like the price to be lower, usually the seller will opt out to take the performance parts with the car and replace it with original items. Do you own price research and see if the items are worth the higher selling price. You can't possible pay 10k more for the mods the owner spent 10k on, maybe 5k would be possible. However, this is subjective and varies from sellers to sellers. I don't want any sellers to come and flame me for this.

d. Ask if there is any repair needed for the car. An honest/etichal seller will definetly tell you which parts needs to be repaired or replaced. Some don't, because you may reduce his price further. How to create a win-win situation for this? To be safe, take the car for a full body checkup, you will be paying for the petrol and all the cost for the checkup. Then you will know if the car is in good condition. This is very important. Spend a few hundred than a few thousand more.

e. Only test drive if you are really buying it. Ask the seller to bring you go for a spin. They are more familiar with the car, and more comfortable driving it. From there, you can do the judging. Because you are not familiar with the car, pushing the car to the limit may result in an accident. Once you are confirmed that the car is in good condition, deposit paid and loan approve,d then the car is almost yours. Then ask for a test drive. Usually the owners will not say no. Win-win situation.

Do correct me if I am wrong. Any extra advice for potential buyers would be helpful. 45 minutes contributed

*Added some items with feedback from members - Parts, Re-furbished, Import New, Grey Import -

What to buy for a 200-250k budget?

gtghost — Thu, 11 Oct 2007 12:25:14 +0800

Dear all,

Do you have any recommendation for the budget above? I discussed with my friends and parents, parents prefer me to look around Kepong area. I'm open to any suggestions. My repayment target is around 5-10 years. I'm planning to take out around 50k from the EPF to pay for it.

It may be for living or renting out as I am staying with my parents. They are happy and do not mind me staying. So, this will either be investment or for self usage once I'm married. Nyway, have already decided that I will go for property investment to diversify my investment.

Any suggestion or feedback or critisim is very appreciated

Dilemma in choosing

gtghost — Fri, 20 Jul 2007 12:31:57 +0800

Hi all, I got an offer from 2 companies. Currently I am doing technical team lead (3-5 person) in a company, which has very good benefits but quite a low salary for my expectations and skillset, hence the job hunting. Currently I have a 3 months bonus ( performance), very high EPF, and lots of AL.

Company A is offering me a technical team lead position with 3-5 people under me, offering me increase base salary of 35%. But they are no other benefits (Others are too kacang putih to mention), just pure salary. If I were to calculate my previous salary + the benefits (bonus, epf, allowance, etc) it will end up the same. But in the end, if I don't jump, my base salary will be still low to find another one in the future, due to much employers are now looking at what you are drawing for your base instead of the benefits.

Company B offering me position of Level 3 support. Not really keen on L3 due to the fact I am doing technical lead now. Have to dirty my hands again. Salary is the same as Company A + same bonus for my current job + good allowances. In the end, calculation wise, it will still be a higher base salary + all the benefits i have in the current company except the epf and AL. Caculate total package i will have 50% increase in my current pay.

So I am in a dilemma.........I don't want to do L3 anymore cos it past my time already. Been doing support for the past 6 years+, a bit muak already....But the offer from Company B is so good (the $ wise) but it won't look good on my profile if I do not get a career advancement. I haven't asked them above the career advancement yet, but usually they promise you heaven but does not get it. In the end of the day, it is still a risk.

Anyhow, with a jump in salary wise, I will be confirm to leave, jus that don't know wheter to go from technical lead back to L3........

Streamyx Down

gtghost — Thu, 23 Nov 2006 10:14:45 +0800

My 2 branches streamyx down one shot, Nilai & Melaka. Even lease line is down. Anyone in melaka or nilai got any prob?

Lowyat.NET: Latest topics by gtghost

Law India hinakan agama Islam?

Things to consider before buying an imported car

What to buy for a 200-250k budget?

Dilemma in choosing

Streamyx Down