http://forum.lowyat.net/ Mon, 08 Jun 2026 00:21:40 +0800 FeedCreator 1.7.2 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4140049 <b>Item(s):</b><br /><br /><b>Package includes:</b> Brand new IKEA Vargo Bed Storage box. 2 available for sale.<br /><br /><b>Price:</b> RM60 for 1. Buy both at RM100.<br /><br /><b>Warranty:</b> None.<br /><br /><b>Dealing method:</b> COD<br /><br /><b>Location:</b> Kepong, PJ and KL<br /><br /><b>Contact method/details:</b> PM me please<br />---<br /><br /><b>Item(s) conditions:</b> BRAND NEW AND UNASSEMBLED.<br /><br /><img src='https://d2xngy2dw7hums.cloudfront.net/media/photos/products/2016/12/07/ikea_vardo_bed_storage_in_white_1481042118_f8b4411f.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><br /><a href='http://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/20238223/' target='_blank'>more info</a><br /><br /><b>Reason for sale:</b> bought without thinking. Had no use for it. nimeewon Garage Sales Wed, 07 Dec 2016 00:44:20 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3727475 I recently serviced my car in the Peugeot service centre in PJ around early Sept. Today I got a call from a private number stating to be from Naza Group conducting a survey on the service centres. Anyone else got this?<br /><br />Just curious. The information asked was not really personal but some of them was a little weird to me (what model I drive, what age am I, did I drop the car personally etc).<br /><br />They went ahead to ask several other questions about how I rate the services, the cleanliness of the area etc.<br /><br />Any other peugeot owners got this too? nimeewon The Fast &amp; The Furious Tue, 29 Sep 2015 15:57:20 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3723651 Hi,<br /><br />I recently just updated both of my computers to Windows 10. Problem is one of them keeps turning on itself when it&#39;s shut down. This happens randomly from time to time, there is no specified timing or condition that I know of. <br /><br />Some details :<br />- I have unticked all the possible devices that can wake my computer up<br />- My internet setting is an ethernet cable<br /><br />This problem only started when I updated to Windows 10 <!--emo&:(--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='sad.gif' /><!--endemo--> nimeewon Technical Support Fri, 25 Sep 2015 14:52:05 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/834052 I am interested in Public Relations, therefore i need a course in Mass Communications. But i need a very good college to go to. Does Taylor&#39;s measure up? nimeewon Education Essentials Sun, 02 Nov 2008 22:42:35 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/803824 hey people, i want to convert a spoiler tag into html form but i suck at html. need some help&#33;<br /><br />My blog?<br /><br /><a href='http://yeevee.blogspot.com' target='_blank'>http://yeevee.blogspot.com</a><br /> nimeewon Content Creators, Blogmasters &amp; Webmasters Sun, 28 Sep 2008 23:42:24 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/705222 Hi, im a noob with the audio world, but i need a program that can help minimize the vocals in a song. nimeewon Audiophiles Mon, 26 May 2008 22:25:26 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/687878 <span style='color:orange'><span style='font-size:21pt;line-height:100%'>Bearded Dragons</span></span><br /><br /><a href='http://www.beardeddragon.org' target='_blank'>www.beardeddragon.org &lt;-- HIT ME</a><br /><br /><br />all about bearded dragons<br /><br /><img src='http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii114/nimeewon/DSC_7280.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br />original photo from nimeewon<br /><br />Bearded Dragon is the common name for any agamid lizard in the genus Pogona. They are native to Australia.<br /><br />Bearded Dragons are popular exotic pets in many places, notably the species Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. These pets are also affectionately called &quot;Beardies&quot; by those who breed or raise them. They are a popular breed among children, because of their friendly and calm nature.<br /><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('47de5de754a0d1fd8987ed77b2f7fb2e')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="47de5de754a0d1fd8987ed77b2f7fb2e" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END-->Bearded Dragon have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 18 to 24 inches head-to-tail they can live typically 8-15 years [1]. When threatened, they will expand a spiny pouch under their jaw and turn it black, as well as inhale air and puff up to make them appear larger. The pouch resembles a beard, lending the animal their name. Males <br />are often slightly larger than females, with a broader head in proportion to their bodies, but females are often slightly more heavily set. Bearded Dragons have a distinctive series of lateral spines (specialized scales) radiating horizontally from the head to the base of the tail. Their color ranges from light tan to dark brown, depending on their native soil, often with highlights of black, brilliant red, or gold, and can change somewhat depending upon their internal condition, mood or temperature [darkening when cool]. Some captive populations have been selectively bred for more brilliant colorations. As juveniles, they are semi-arboreal. As adults, they are more terrestrial, but will climb to bask and search for prey. Bearded Dragons can occupy a large range of habitats from the desert to dry forests and scrublands [2] All species are from Australia, but they have been exported worldwide and bred successfully in captivity. In the wild, the various species are widely distributed throughout different regions of Australia. Bearded Dragons live about 8-15 years with proper care in captivity, though some can live up to 20 years old[3].<br /><br />Bearded Dragons are opportunistic omnivores. Many Bearded Dragon habitats are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find. As a result, Bearded Dragons are capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources.<br /><br />Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe levelling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet[4].<br /><br />Due largely to their animated and highly social behavior, mild temperament, willingness to breed in captivity, flexible diet, and robust nature, Bearded Dragons are popular among reptile enthusiasts as pets.<!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--> <br /><br /><span style='color:red'>Housing</span><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('4fbd2d024569c46e4a7e3ef35e5706f7')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="4fbd2d024569c46e4a7e3ef35e5706f7" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END-->Enclosures<br />Baby bearded dragons can be kept in small 20 gallon long tanks. Reptile tanks are usually wider and lower in height to give the maximum floor space. Juvenile (4 months or so) and adult dragons are very active and need larger enclosures to keep them happy and healthy. Once your dragon is 10-12 inches it really needs to move up to a bigger tank. The smallest size tank a juvenile or adult can be housed in is a 40 gallon breeder tank. A pair should be kept in a minimum 75 gallon tank. Tank size can also vary according to the size of your dragons. A 24 inch male will need more space then an 18 inch male. The larger space you can give your bearded dragons the happier they will be.<br /><br />Males and females should be kept together ONLY as babies&#33; Once they reach Juvenile age they should be separated. Males should live alone at this point, but females can usually live together. But watch closely for any dominance issues, or one of the dragons hiding too much. If one is doing poorly, then separating them will most likely help. We don&#39;t recommend keeping more then 2 females together.<br /><br />You can also custom build wooden enclosures or buy specially made PVC or Melamine cages. There are many cages available on the market today that are suited well for bearded dragons. A quick search online should turn up many results.<br /><br />A bearded dragon enclosure should be topped of with a screen lid on top, PLEASE DO NOT USE GLASS LIDS, use something like mesh wire for the top to prevent your bearded dragon from escaping.<!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'><br />Substrate/Bedding</span><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('87cffffe754d7524e9ccf8981f47752f')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="87cffffe754d7524e9ccf8981f47752f" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END--><br />For babies :<br />When it comes to baby beardies which are about 6 weeks to 3 months old, they should be house ON PAPER TOWELS OR REPTILE CARPET. <span style='color:red'>NO LOOSE SUBSTRATE LIKE SAND, CORN COB BEDDING, WOOD CHIPS. </span> This is because, a baby beardie&#39;s bowel system is still very fragile and they cannot digest nor ingest big substances. It is always safe to use bedding like paper towels, tile or reptile carpet when it comes to babies. <!--emo&:thumbs:--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='thumbup.gif' /><!--endemo--> <br /><br />For sub adult and adult dragons :<br />Sand is usable, but still not very recommended. Personally I use tile as a substrate because it is very safe, easy to clean, does not cause impactions and it also keeps my baby&#39;s nails nice and filed <!--emo&:)--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='smile.gif' /><!--endemo--> If you choose to use sand, use the FINEST SAND available.<br /><img src='http://www.kakadudragons.com/caresheet/caresheet_files/image006.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /> Exo Terra desert sand RED is the finest among their range of desert sand, so that is usable, but still quite dangerous if your dragon feeds in the tank. <br /><br />Here is an example of a tiled enclosure<br /><br />this is where i house reptar <!--emo&:clap:--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/rclxms.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='rclxms.gif' /><!--endemo--> <br /><img src='http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii114/nimeewon/DSC00642.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><br />Courtesy of beardeddragon.org<br /><img src='http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w80/tiffyk1ns/P2200003.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><img src='http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh100/Syris71photo/Reptiles/BC-Viv.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'>Lighting</span><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('804eaf29e92af0b81e305ecf270f271b')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="804eaf29e92af0b81e305ecf270f271b" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END--><br /> You will need two types of lighting, UVB and heat lighting. UVB light is essential for many kinds of reptiles. The bulbs simulate the sun allowing the dragons to produce Vitamin D3 which helps them metabolize the calcium they need to maintain health. Without UVB many reptile get Metabolic Bone Disease. You can use the long stretched fluorescent lighting from Exo Terra which is called Repti Glo 2.0 or 10.0. I personally use the bulb from Exo Terra called Sun Glo Tight Beam 75W for my Reptar. <br /><br />These lights need to be within 12 inches of the basking spot and need to be replaced every 6 months because the amount of UVB diminishes. Make sure the bulbs are over what will be your dragons basking spot. This should be at one end of the cage. This area needs to be between 35 degree C - 48 degree C. Beardies need this heat to be able to digest their food. Use a thermometer in the cage to monitor temps or better yet, buy a non contact temp gun and use it to check your temps frequently. The cooler side of the tank away from the basking site should be around 25-28 degree celcius. At night you should not need heating unless it goes below 65 degrees. Then you can use special night heat lights or undertank heater attached to a thermostat on low. Without the thermostat the undertank heater will be really hot.<br /><br />Your lights should be on a cycle of about 10-14 hours on in the summer and 10-12 hours on in the winter. We prefer to keep them as close to what is happening here. You can regulate the lights with simple timers. <br /><br /><span style='color:red'>NOTE : NEVER USE HEATED ROCKS AS THEY CAN BURN YOUR DRAGON LIKE FRIED EGG.<br /></span><!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'>Feeding</span><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('49f5af8140a307c6692ab6bef636a351')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="49f5af8140a307c6692ab6bef636a351" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END--><br /> Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, meaning that they eat both animal and plant matter. Any and all food items that your Bearded Dragons eat should be no bigger than the space between their eyes. If the food items are bigger than the space between their eyes it can cause impaction and/or hind leg paralysis. Either way your Beardie will suffer horribly.<br /><br />Baby and juvenile Beardies should be offered appropriately sized crickets two-three times a day. Offer as many as your Beardie will eat in a 5-10 minute time frame. When your Beardie stops eating, stop offering. Young Bearded Dragons can eat anywhere from 20-60 small crickets a day. Your Beardie should also be given fresh greens daily. Spraying the greens with water will help them last longer and will also help keep your Beardie hydrated.<br /><br />Sub-adult to adult Beardies only need to eat prey items once a day along with fresh greens. Once they are this age you can also offer them Locusts, Cockroaches, Mealworms, Waxworms, Zophobas worms, Silkworms, Butterworms, Red worms, Earthworms and just about any other worm available. All these should be used as treats though with crickets and greens being the stable part of your Dragons diet. DO NOT feed your Beardie insects that you have caught in your backyard. These bugs could have parasites that could be passed on to your Beardie or they could have been exposed to poisons that could kill your Beardie. Lightning bugs can also kill your Beardie so it is much safer to stay away from wild caught insects.<br /><br />The live feeders should be gutloaded properly to provide enough nutrients for your dragons. As dragons grow older to sub adult size, they will start to lose interest in crickets and develop a fond for worms, especially superworms. <br /><br /><b>NOTE : DO NOT FEED PINKIES TO BEARDIES, Pinkies are only needed for pregnant female bearded dragons. Pinkies can cause fatty liver disease to your dragon which is a nono. If you have to, only feed pinkies to beardies once every 1-2 months, and nothing more. </b> <br /><br />Prey items should be dusted once a day with a calcium/vitamin D3 supplement such as Rep-cal makes. All prey items should be dusted once a week with a multivitamin supplement such as Herptivite, also made by Rep-cal.<br /><br /><b>Any uneaten prey itmes should be removed from your Dragons enclosure or risk getting your dragon NIBBLED ALIVE </b><br /><br />There is a wide variety of greens that are available that are good for your Beardie. Dandelion greens, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Bok choy, Kale, Turnip greens, Escarole and Chicory are among the easiest to find and the best to use. If the greens you are wondering about say Lettuce anywhere in the name avoid them. Most types of lettuce are composed mostly of water and hold little or no nutritional value. With the wide variety of other greens out there it is better and easier to just avoid any type of lettuce. Spinach should also be avoided as calcium binds to it and will not be digested by your animal.<br /><br />A wide variety of vegetables can also be offered to your Beardie. Butternut squash, Yellow squash, Spaghetti squash, Acorn squash, all other varieties of squash, Green beans, Parsnips, Sweet potato, Snow peas and Carrots. Carrots should only be used as a treat though due to the high amounts of vitamin A. Any food with high amounts of vitamin A should be avoided as reptiles do not absorb alot of vitamin A. Feeding your Beardie alot foods such as Carrots will end up in a condition called Vitamin A toxicity wich is deadly. Squashes will either have to be cooked or microwaved before feeding them to your Beardie. This will soften them up and they can then be minced and eaten easier.<br /><br />Fruits can also be used, just avoid any citrus fruit such as oranges and grape fruit. <br /><br /><b>Water</b><br /><br />Fresh water should be offered daily in a shallow bowl. This water bowl should be disinfected once a week to avoid any bacterial build up. Many Beardie may not drink from a water bowl so you may have to drip the water slowly onto your Beardies snout. Wiggling your finger in the water may also get their attention. Beardies like things that move so creating ripples in the water may get their attention.<!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('0be2cb6d5f9fde8ef34f03b7dc7c95ca')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="0be2cb6d5f9fde8ef34f03b7dc7c95ca" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END--><br />Bearded Dragons are OMNIVOROUS. Which means they eat both insects, veggies and fruits. A healthy dragon needs all in proportion to get enough nutrients from each category.<br /><br />When feeding BDs, you must bring AGE in consideration. WHICH MEANS,<br /><br />BABY<br />- MORE PROTEIN as in INSECTS ( for growing )<br />- STILL PROVIDE VEGGIES but more insects.<br /><br />ADULT<br />- MORE VEGGIES<br />- LESS insects ( you can like feed them in ratios like 1(insects):3(veggies)<br /><br />Baby bearded dragons should be given as many feeder insects as he will eat within 15 minutes, all uneaten insects should be removed. This should be done every other day. But, you&#39;re not getting away with just feeder insects when raising a bearded dragon. You should still provide him with fruits and vegetables DAILY, even if he doesn&#39;t eat them. Having the vegetation in the tank with him, will get him used to seeing it, so when he is older he will be more likely to eat the veggies on his own.<br /><br />As for adults, PROVIDE VEGGIES DAILY.<br /><br />okay, recommended feeder insects-<br /><br />CRICKETS<br />MEALWORMS<br />SUPERWORMS ( ONLY FOR ADULTS, due to hard exoskeleton or shell )<br />ROACHES ( not the cockroach you find at home ar, feeder roaches are like Blapdica Dubias, GOOGLE it.<br /><br />Vegetables<br /><br />As for vegetables that you can give your bearded dragon, you can feed it just about anything that you eat yourself.<br /><br />Vegetables that you can feed your bearded dragon include:<br /><br />* Kale<br />* Collard greens<br />* Chicory<br />* Cucumber<br />* Carrots<br />* Squash<br />* Zucchini<br />* Spinach<br />* Peas<br />* Green beans<br />* Broccoli<br />* Dandelion greens<br />* Cabbage<br />* Other thawed- frozen vegetables<br />NOTE : do not feed lettuce, as lettuce is only high in water content and no much nutrients contained.<br /><br />Fruits<br /><br />Fruits that are appropriate for bearded dragons include:<br /><br />* Strawberries<br />* Apricots<br />* Mango<br />* Melon<br />* Blackberries<br />* Raspberries<br />* Blueberries<br />* Peaches<br />* Cantelope<br />* Apples<br />* Pears<br />* Grapes<br /><br />Fruits and Veggies to Avoid<br /><br />* Iceburg lettuce, as it is nothing more than a filler with absolutely no nutritional value<br />* Tomatoes<br />* Lemons<br />* Oranges<br />* Other acidic fruits and vegetables<br /><br />Water<br /><br />Water can be given in the form of a water bowl kept in the aquarium, baths, or a spray. It is not really recommended to spray the bearded dragon as it can raise the humidity levels in the tank.<br /><br />A breeder once told me that she doesn&#39;t provide water because all the water they need can be gained from eating fruits and vegetables that tend to hold water, such as squash and zucchini. Using this method, you should let you bearded dragon have a bath at least once or twice a week. Babies require baths more often that adults.<br /><br />When I say &quot;bath,&quot; I do not mean soap and water, lather, rinse, and repeat. What I mean by &#39;bath&#39; is warm water in a large tupperware, sink, or bathtub, depending on the size of the beardy, and letting it hang out for a little while in the water.<br /><br />okay now for the supplements,<br /><br />SUPPLEMENTS<br /><br />Vitamin and mineral supplements are often added to many reptile diets. However, as with many other products, too much can be as dangerous as not enough. Preparations should contain both fat and water soluble vitamins and minerals essential for proper nutrition. Adding any supplement to your reptiles water may increase the decomposition of the product as well as decrease the reptiles water consumption. Adding supplements to salads may effect their palatability. Commercial supplements should be stored in a cool, dark place and products without expiration dates should be avoided.<br /><br />Vitamin A deficiency is rare in herbivorous reptiles. Beta carotene, the precursor of vitamin A, is present in green leafy plants, yellow and orange vegetables, and fruit. Yolk remaining at the time of hatching will usually provide adequate vitamin A levels for approximately six months. Vitamin A is stored in the liver; diets heavy in animal protein can deplete these stores. Vitamin A deficiency is most commonly observed in young chelonians fed improper diets. Hypovitaminosis A is the most common cause of nonspecific, inflammatory, periocular disease in reptiles. The disease is usually evident within the ocular, genitourinary, and respiratory systems. Affected animals will exhibit swollen or reddened eyelids and mucous membranes, nasal discharge, or respiratory distress (dyspnea). Hyperkeratosis of the skin and mouth parts may also be observed. In herbivorous reptiles, any vitamin A deficiency should be thoroughly investigated prior to the use of supplemental vitamin A.<br /><br />Vitamin A overdosage may occur secondary to excessive supplementation. This will occur when a single, intramuscular injection, greater than 10,000U/kg is administered. Liver failure, ictrus, jaundice, depression, and anorexia may all be observed in an animal with a vitamin A overdose. Tissue sloughing can be observed at the injection site when injectable vitamin A is used. The exposed tissue will then become susceptible to bacterial infections. Glucocorticoids will prolong the overdose effect and therefore should not be used in affected animals. There is no evidence that vitamin A can be used to stimulate appetite in anorexic reptiles.<br /><br />Thiamin (Vitamin B1) deficiency is caused by feeding items that contain the enzyme thiaminase rather than by feeding a thiamin deficient diet. Thiaminase breaks down the animals stored supply of thiamine. Herbivorous reptiles may acquire this disease because thiaminase is found in ferns and ornamental house plants, and by feeding large amounts of frozen vegetables. Freezing decreases vitamin levels and increases thiaminase activity. Carnivorous reptiles may acquire a deficiency because thiaminase is found in fish. Thiamine is necessary for the proper development and function of nervous tissues. A thiamine deficiency is characterized by nervous disorders such as: twitching, spasms, blindness, abnormal posture, and an inability to use specific muscle groups. In snakes, inability to accurately strike their prey can be observed. Thiamin deficiency can also lead to dystocia, egg-retention, and other reproductive disorders. These signs may also be seen with other vitamin deficiencies such as vitamin E or selenium and they may also be related to other disease processes. Treatment with a thiamine supplement usually will correct the problem. Adding a small amount of Brewer&#39;s yeast to any frozen food item prior to feeding will also help. When fish is used as a food item, make sure it is either fresh or fresh-frozen. Boiling fish prior to its being fed will denature the thiaminase.<br /><br />The other B complex vitamins are synthesized by the bacteria and protozoa with the intestinal tract of normal reptiles. Raw egg whites contain avidin, which prevents biotin from being processed within the animal. A deficiency may occur in feeding egg-eating reptiles a diet of exclusively whole raw eggs. Egg-eating reptiles in nature rarely acquire a biotin deficiency because most eggs eaten are fertile and embryonic tissue contains biotin. Occasionally, especially following any antimicrobial therapy, the normal flora will die off, allowing a deficiency to occur. By using vitamin B complex supplementation as well as intestinal culture inoculation, the situation is easily correctable.<br /><br />Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is produced within the kidney and gastrointestinal tract of reptiles. A herbivorous diet, rich in green, leafy vegetables and citrus fruits is sufficient to prevent this deficiency from occurring. Affected reptiles will exhibit signs of bruising, bleeding gums, separation and tearing of the skin, and occasionally diarrhea. Administration of Vitamin C, is recommended as part of the medical treatment of infectious stomatitis.<br /><br />Vitamin D levels will have a direct role on the reptiles calcium level. In carnivorous reptiles, this will occur when the animals are fed skeletal muscle and viscera without the bones. In herbivorous reptiles, this will occur when the animals are fed diets containing oxalates or from low or no exposure to ultraviolet stimulation either from direct, unfiltered sunlight or from full-spectrum reptile lights. Vitamin D deficiency will result in a decrease in the calcium absorption from the large intestine and a subsequent decrease in the quality of bone growth and development. These changes will be more obvious in young, rapidly growing reptiles.<br /><br />Vitamin D overdosage will cause an excess amount of calcium to be absorbed, resulting in calcium deposits within soft tissues, including the heart. This may occur secondary to oversupplementation or following ingestion of rodentacides containing cholecalciferol.<br /><br />Vitamin E deficiency is usually related to appalling husbandry practice pertaining to the reptiles diet, such as feeding rancid or spoiled food. Carnivorous reptiles may develop a deficiency because fish is high in saturated fats, resulting in this condition. If fish is fed to a reptile, you need to make sure it is either fresh or fresh-frozen and avoid fatty fish such as goldfish. Signs of vitamin E deficiency include anorexia, steatitis, and swollen nodules under the skin. These nodules are actually abnormal fat deposits, the skin covering these areas is usually discolored yellow or orange. Occasionally, cardiac muscle abnormalities similar to &quot;white muscle disease&quot; in mammals, have been diagnosed in reptiles with a vitamin E deficiency. This myopathy is caused by a decrease in the membrane integrity of the muscle cells, due to a decrease in the antioxidant effect of vitamin E.<br /><br />Vitamin K is synthesized by the normal intestinal flora of reptiles. Vitamin K deficiency may occur following long-term use of oral antibiotics, or following consumption of animals poisoned with warfarin, strychnine, or other coumadin derivatives. Feeding fresh yogurt, Lactobacillus, or fecal cultures will help replenish the reptiles normal intestinal flora.<br /><br />When treating sick reptiles, administration of vitamins should be performed with some caution. Most vitamins work as enzymes with other nutrients and this process requires fuel to occur. Administering vitamins to anorexic animals without also administering food, may result in an overdose of the vitamin. There are varied doses of most vitamins for reptiles. Because of this, specific doses should be calculated for each patient prior to their use.<br /><br /><br />SUMMARY<br /><br />BABY - more insects, less veggies.<br />ADULTS - more veggies, less insects.<br /><br />Good Insects - crickets, mealworm, superworm.<br /><br />Good veggie &amp; fruits - Mentioned above.<br /><br />GOOD SUPPLEMENTS - vitamin D &amp; calcium should be given through dusted insects or on salads, at least once every 2 days to prevent overdosage. As for other vitamins, ONE A WEEK is enough.<br />BEST supplements to get is from REP-CAL, as they specialize in reptile diets. Their supplements are AWESOME and phosphorus free. You can ask LYN members who has used Rep Cal how good it is.<br /><br /><!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><br /><span style='color:red'><br /> Bathing</span><br /><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('a256453149b4b14402d14bf4c3ca5c1b')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="a256453149b4b14402d14bf4c3ca5c1b" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END-->Bathing your Beardie once a week will help keep them hydrated and will also aid in shedding. Bath water should be warm on your wrist and not hot, much like bath water for a small child. Make the water only as deep as your Beardies chest or half way up their front arms. I usually just fill the tub until the water reaches the second knuckle on my index finger for my adults and the first knuckle for the juveniles. Never leave your Beardie unattended in the bath, accidents only take a second to happen. It&#39;s also a god idea to disinfect your tub when the bath is over because Beardies will often defecate in the water. <!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'><br />Disinfecting</span><br /><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('194f47c57d89d7da8a453bb051226f1e')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="194f47c57d89d7da8a453bb051226f1e" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END-->You can use a 1/4 cup of bleach mixed with a gallon of water. This is done easiest in an old, clean, milk container. After mixing the bleach and water, fill a spray bottle with the mixture. This makes it easy to cover the entire surface of what you are cleaning and leaves a container full for when your spray bottle is empty. All surfaces that get feces on them should be disinfected, including water bowls, food bowls and cages. This is how I disinfect all my cages, cage accessories and the tub after bathing.<br /><br />Spray the entire surface of what you are cleaning until it is soaked. Then let it sit for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes scrub the surface with a rag making sure any old food or feces is removed. Rinse all surfaces repetedly until you can no longer smell bleach. If you still smell bleach rinse again. <!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'> Hygiene</span><br /><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('8bd85ebdae0b84b83accf09fa472d1fc')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="8bd85ebdae0b84b83accf09fa472d1fc" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END-->Hand washing is very important when owning any reptile. Washing your hands before and after handeling your Beardie will help keep you and your new pet healthy. If you wash your hands before handeling you reduce the risk of passing anything on to your Dragon. Washing your hands after handling greatly reduce the risk of you contracting salmonella. The risks of getting this are very slim to begin with but hand washing will even further reduce the risks. Your chances of contracting salmonella from the food you eat are greater than your chances of getting it from your Beardie so don&#39;t fret. <!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br /><span style='color:red'>General</span><br /><br />Before deciding on buying a Bearded dragon you should consider a few things. One, do you have a qualified Herp Vet in your area that will be able to care for your new pet if it get&#39;s sick? New Bearded Dragons should always have a fecal sample tested for parasites and a general health checkup. It is also a good idea to have them retested for parasites once a year.<br /><br />Two, are you going to be able to afford to feed, house and care for this pet during it&#39;s life? Bearded Dragons will eat like ravenous beasts when young and will cost you alot of money. The UV light they require also need to be replaced around every six months wich is also going to cost a bit of money. Let&#39;s not forget trips to the Vet, these may also add up over the years of your Beardies life.<br /><br /><br />You are responsible for the life of your pets. If they are sick get them to a Vet. If they are hungry feed them. Animal abuse is a felony in many states and you should remember that. <br /><br /><br /><span style='color:red'>CARESHEETS</span><br /><a href='http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/' target='_blank'>http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/</a><br /><a href='http://www.kakadudragons.com/caresheet/caresheet.php' target='_blank'>http://www.kakadudragons.com/caresheet/caresheet.php</a><br /><a href='http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html' target='_blank'>http://www.dachiu.com/care/abeard.html</a><br /><a href='http://www.sunshinedragons.com/caresheet.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.sunshinedragons.com/caresheet.htm</a><br /><br />Enjoy <!--emo&:)--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='smile.gif' /><!--endemo--> <br /><br /><span style='color:orange'>Pictures</span><br /><!--SPOILER BEGIN--><div class="spoilertop" onClick="openClose('10aa8668ad23fc34af8ce1c35a572c43')" style="font-weight: bold"><u>&raquo; Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... &laquo;</u></div><div class="spoilermain" id="10aa8668ad23fc34af8ce1c35a572c43" style="display:none"><!--SPOILER END--><br /><img src='http://images.beardeddragon.org/photoAlbum/pinky03.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><img src='http://images.beardeddragon.org/photoAlbum/ndragon04.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><img src='http://images.beardeddragon.org/guestAlbum/1208309287.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br />all courtesy of bearded dragon.org<br /><br /><img src='http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii114/nimeewon/DSC00616.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><img src='http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii114/nimeewon/reptar2.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /> all courtesy of Reptar and i<!--SPOILER DIV--></div><!--SPOILER DIV--><br /><br />oh and bearded dragon owners, please pm me and i will post your beardie&#39;s name and yours up <!--emo&:)--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='smile.gif' /><!--endemo--><br /><br />Current Owners;-<br />nimeewon - Reptar<br />jhoonaun - Rocky, 2 unnamed, Hippie<br />jinhoe - Hegure<br />teewai - Eragon<br />the_mask86 - Maple<br />beardiekid - Raeus and Cronus<br />evil_educator - Jii Leng<br />Newbie^^ - Romeo<br />Lengleng - Jiweng nimeewon Pets Wonderland Sat, 03 May 2008 16:00:07 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/679883 My dear friends, as you know, tigers are farmed and killed for their bones, fur and organs for all sorts of stupidity. The traditional chinese people believe that tiger organs will enhance your life, which i think is totally nonsense. And due to this, tigers are being killed all over the world for the demand of their bones, fur and organs and meat. Estimated there are only 5000 tigers left in the wild. 5000&#33;&#33;&#33; That is an a really small amount. There are becoming extinct. THAT IS A SAD FACT. <br /><br /><b>AND NOW, CHINA WANTS TO LIFT OFF ITS BAN ON ILLEGAL TRADING OF TIGERS.</b> <br /><br />WHICH MEANS<br /><br />TRADING TIGER GOODS = LEGAL<br /><br />WHICH MEANS<br /><br />KILLING TIGERS = LEGAL<br /><br />WHICH MEANS<br /><br />UTTERLY INHUMANE.<br /><br />So please, all chinese and everyone else there, show that you have a heart and still a humane human being and STOP THE TIGER TRADE NOW&#33;&#33;&#33; <!--emo&:thumbs:--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/thumbup.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='thumbup.gif' /><!--endemo--> <br /><br /><span style='color:red'>YOU CAN HELP SAVE TIGERS BY SIGNING THE PETITION FROM THIS LINK<br /></span><br /><br /><a href='http://www.hsus.org/wildlife/issues_facing_wildlife/wildlife_trade/illegal_tiger_trade_11608.html' target='_blank'>http://www.hsus.org/wildlife/issues_facing...rade_11608.html</a><br /><br /><span style='color:red'>PLEASE, HELP SAVE TIGERS.</span><br /><br /><br />Tigers are beautiful creatures due to their nature in the wild and of course, how mother nature and god gave them their AMAZING look. <br /><br /><br />PLEASE GO TO THIS LINK TO SIGN THE PETITION AND READ MORE ABOUT TIGER TRADING IN CHINA. <br /><br />AGAIN, <a href='http://www.hsus.org/wildlife/issues_facing_wildlife/wildlife_trade/illegal_tiger_trade_11608.html' target='_blank'>http://www.hsus.org/wildlife/issues_facing...rade_11608.html</a><br /><br /><br /><img src='http://www.naturetrek.co.uk/pics/mp_Tiger.jpg' border='0' alt='user posted image' /><br /><br /><br /><br />GOD BLESS. <br /><br /><br /> <!--emo&:respect:--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/notworthy.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='notworthy.gif' /><!--endemo--> nimeewon Pets Wonderland Tue, 22 Apr 2008 19:20:54 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/646552 hi guys, i would like to know if there are any companies that print your designs on T-shirts? if yes, please do tell me <!--emo&:)--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='smile.gif' /><!--endemo--> nimeewon Girl&#39;s Club Fri, 07 Mar 2008 00:55:00 +0800 http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/623108 hey you guyss, i&#39;m in love with bearded dragons and am currently looking for one, any suggestions on where to find it? i found a couple of pet stores which sells it like Pet Safari for abt rm500-600 for one and another shop for rm400. but m looking for a better deal <!--emo&:)--><img src='http://static.lowyat.net/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif' border='0' style='vertical-align:middle' alt='smile.gif' /><!--endemo--> nimeewon Pets Wonderland Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:03:08 +0800